Adox CHS 100 II and pd/pt?

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hirudin

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Hi All!

Does anyone have experience with using Adox CHS 100 II with platinum/palladium printing? I've done a few searches, and can only see reference or two to CHS / Pyrocat HD with palladium. I'm inclined to try the film and test it with another developer more friendly to JOBO expert drums, but I thought perhaps someone on this forum may have already done some of this work. I'm interested in any experiences, thoughts and recommendations on the use of this film with pd/pt...

Thanks in advance!

-Jesse-
 

Alan9940

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I don't quite get your reference to "more friendly to Jobo drums" and Pyrocat-HD. I use Pyrocat HD in Jobo drums (25xx series and Expert drums) with 120 roll film and sheet film routinely and have NO issues with its performance. Maybe I'm misunderstanding your comment.

Same here. And, I've also used PMK and 510-Pyro in both the Expert Drums and 25xx tanks. I run it on its slowest rotation speed and have never had any issues.
 
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hirudin

hirudin

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Same here. And, I've also used PMK and 510-Pyro in both the Expert Drums and 25xx tanks. I run it on its slowest rotation speed and have never had any issues.

Hey folks, thanks for your replies. I'm just wondering what kind of a shoulder CHS has and whether it responds well to extended development for pd/pt and maintains highlight separation and low base fog under this scenario without blocking up. Basically like FP4 versus HP5.

As far as Pyro and Jobo drums, I tested processing 8x20 film in the 3063 drum for sheet film/paper up to 20x24 using a Stark processor with Pyrocat-HD and I get lines corresponding to the ribs in the tank. I get them at all speeds, low or high, so I had to move to a non-staining developer.

Thanks again!

-Jesse-
 
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Alan9940

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As far as Pyro and Jobo drums, I tested processing 8x20 film in the 3063 drum for sheet film/paper up to 20x24 using a Stark processor with Pyrocat-HD and I get lines corresponding to the ribs in the tank. I get them at all speeds, low or high, so I had to move to a non-staining developer.

The 3063 is a print drum, not an Expert Drum for film. I have read other comments that the ribs of these style drums can be an issue when trying to develop film. The Expert Drums made specifically for film are only for 4x5 and 8x10. I've used both for over 20 years on a Jobo CPP-2 and have never had any issues from any type developer used.
 

Peter Schrager

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Doesn't adox specifically NOT recommend Pyro with this film?? Glad to see some brave souls who have tried it....
Any clue as to the real speed of this film is??
 
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hirudin

hirudin

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Yes, and the tech specs also mentions a shoulder on the film to prevent runaway highlights, which is why I'm inquiring about others' experience with this film and pd/pt and if there's a dev combination or workflow with extended development for longer scale negatives.
 
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osella

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Doesn't adox specifically NOT recommend Pyro with this film?? Glad to see some brave souls who have tried it....
Any clue as to the real speed of this film is??

The data sheet warns against using pyro for roll film because of the anti-halation undercoat. The sheet film apparently does not have this later so it isn’t an issue.

I’ve been curious about this myself but there isn’t much sensiometric data available. Post #19 has some good graphs: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...w-adox-chs-100-ii-print-and-neg-scans.107778/
 

Lachlan Young

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Any clue as to the real speed of this film is??

It's ISO 100. With shadow keyed metering and ID-11 I see no reason to disagree with the specified speed.

Whatever you end up setting on your meter will say more about your metering habits and developer choices than the scientifically defined film speed.
 
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Lachlan Young

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Yes, and the tech specs also mentions a shoulder on the film to prevent runaway highlights, which is why I'm inquiring about others' experience with this film and pd/pt and if there's a dev combination or workflow with extended development for longer scale negatives.

A lot may depend on the iodide (and bromide) content/ placement within the crystal structure of the emulsion(s) that define the shoulder - and the consequent relationships to the solvency of any given developer (ie how much restrainer is released). You might want to try something like PQ Universal rather than a film specific developer - it's very low fog, tends to deliver a pretty unrelenting straight line and expansion of contrast is not a problem with it.
 
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hirudin

hirudin

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Thanks, Lachlan! I've used PQ Universal for internegatives, but never camera negatives. I'll give that a try and look into similar developers
 

revdoc

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If you want the higher UV density of pyro, you can develop in your normal developer, then bleach and redevelop with a pyro developer after fixing. This can be done in a tray, in room light, and generally won't suffer from the issues you might otherwise be seeing.
 
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