adox 25 in pmk

[lumogar]

I want develop adox 25 in pmk but no know the time.Can yoy help me?

 

[jim appleyard]

There were a couple of folks at photo.net who loved this combo. Perhaps a search there?

 

[lumogar]

I saw there but I don`t find anything.

 

[noseoil]

Lumo, try this. For a "normal" scene (sorry, don't have a clue what this means for you) use asa 12 for your film speed. With 21c use 7' 30" total time in developer. I use distilled water to mix my PMK working solution of 1:2:100 for 35mm through 8x10. Do a minute of gentle agitation, followed by one inversion every 15 seconds until completion. See how this works for you. The most recent post in my gallery is this combnation with 120mm film. Good luck, tim

 

[lumogar]

Thanks Noseoil.

I use 4 x 5 sheets in Jobo CPE2.Any other advice?

 

[noseoil]

If you can check the light with your meter, find out what the high and low values are and keep track of them for each shot (write them down each time). If you find that the print has too much development and highlights are blown, try reducing the time by 20% the next time you have this much contrast in a similar shot.

I use a system of numbers called Beyond the Zone System (BTZS). Basically, subtract the low number from the high number, then add 5. This is your SBR number. Por ejemplo, highlights on ev 15, - low values on ev 11 = 4+ 5 (5 is for the paper). This SBR is a nine. Write this down, develop the film and print. Your metered low values should fall on zone 3, the high values on zone 7. Best, tim

 

[don sigl]

Thanks Noseoil.

I use 4 x 5 sheets in Jobo CPE2.Any other advice?

PMK is not an optimal developer for rotary processing. If you want to use it, you should slow the rotation way down. I Use PMK for roll films and LF in trays, but when I rotary process, I have found Pyrocat to be much more controllable, with less base fog and chemical oxidation.

Regards,

 

[noseoil]

Don,

Thanks for your input. Since I've never used a Jobo, I don't have any information. The constant rotary action will produce more contrast, so my 20% reduction was just a guess. I agree with you about the pyrocat, it is what I use now, almost exclusively. It has better shadow detail and is much easier to use with Adox 25. This is due to the dilution ration I use with pyrocat (1:1;150). Thanks for your input. tim