Adding contrast in overcast conditions

[BenJT]

Hi everyone. So I generally shoot black and white with a yellow filter (y2) and I understand the effects it has in relation to the colors of a scene. What I am trying to figure out is what type of filter would help add contrast on overcast days with a snowy landscape, often times I find these scenes lack colors, or are mostly blue. Could a polarizer help or hurt? Is the yellow filter still a good choice under these conditions? Any help is appreciated, thanks guys.

 

[BenJT]

Thanks, the filter I'm using is actually labeled y2 and is made my telesor. I found it at a yard sale in a bag with a canon t70, so I'm going to guess its from the 80s-90s. Am I safe in assuming it is a k2? I think Ill look for a #12.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Your Y2 is likely a K2 or very close. There are a lot of designations from different manufacturers for colored filters, but the Wratten numbers are the standard.

Finding a no. 12 filter is a bit more difficult, as they are less common. Furthermore, for the scene you describe, there will likely be no appreciable difference except the loss of speed due to the filter factor.

For flat scenes with no strong color differences, your best bet for increasing contrast is to increase development or print on a higher-contrast paper. Filters only work when there are color differences. Polarizers are dependent on the presence of polarized light, which is in short supply on overcast days and subjects that do not reflect like mirrors. You can always look through the filter and turn it to see the effect. If you see nothing, then neither will your film.

You can bracket a scene with a bunch of different filters to see if that helps, but I doubt it will do much. Try no filter, a yellow and then orange and red. You'll likely just lose speed due to the filter factor and not affect contrast that much.

I find that ditching the filter in such situations gives me gratifyingly more effective speed and that developing N+1 gives me even a bit more.

My recommendations: If you're shooting small/medium format and using an averaging or center-weighted meter, simply shoot away without filter and then use a higher-contrast paper when printing.

If you are shooting LF, meter the brightness range of your subject and develop accordingly. In your scenario, an increase in development time to N+1 is likely. If you're not a Zone System user like me, you may simply want to use an average meter reading and then try adding 20% to your developing time for flat subjects such as you describe.

Best,

Doremus


www.DoremusScudder.com

 

[mfohl]

Thanks for the tips, Doremus. I need to explore increasing contrast on overcast days, with or without the snow. I'm wondering if exposure should be adjusted when development will be N+1. Increase a stop? Decrease a stop? I'll do some testing and report back.

And here is a tip for exposing the snow: meter the snow, then open up two stops. In zone system parlance, that moves the snow from Zone 5 to Zone 7. I can't think of any situation where someone would want the snow at Zone 5.

 

[Tofek]

Is this tip true for B&W reversal too ? Or will a two stop overexposure be too much ? I'm wondering since I will be shooting snow on reversal b&w super 8 film...

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

If the scene is fairly blue you can also try a red filter. It will definitely give the scene more contrast, but it may not yield the results you want either, as it may darken certain areas more than you want.

 

[ROL]

+1 what Doremus said. I couldn't have said it better, and so won't.

 

[BenJT]

Thanks for the advise guys, got a very helpful PM too, great community here.