Sorry to hear that. But a vacation shouldn't just be about taking pictures--it's not wasted.
If you have a changing bag or a dark place, you could put an extra layer of masking tape over the junction where the film meets the backing paper. PITA, but it should work.
you can get the film sensing and film movement sensing mechanism adjusted to accommodate Fuji films.
I know I am going to come across as a *** (insert your preferred insult here), but if I were going somewhere remote to shoot, I would test the cameras before leaving. And have a back-up of sorts.You are right.
But imagine for a second, you go to Iceland and decide to dedicate all your acros that you purchased, which was supposed to be the last ever. Wouldn’t that be a horrible scenario?
You can also wrap the silver roller itself. If you have some cellophane tape, put a strip on, one layer without an overlap. Even if it is a bit short of a full wrap, it should work. The hack of the roller you were looking for.
This will basically 'preload' the sensor. You'll know right away if it is too thick because the film sensor will trip almost immediately at loading.
If this works out, you only need to do it once rather than adding tape to each roll individually.
I know I am going to come across as a *** (insert your preferred insult here), but if I were going somewhere remote to shoot, I would test the cameras before leaving. And have a back-up of sorts.
On another *** note, I am not sure what all the fuss is over Acros--it seems flat to me. I think that's why portrait photographers like it so much. I prefer FP4+.
I thought about it, but I only have scotch tape. Who knows, that might work too? I was scared it would loose its tooth and just slide over it instead of making it turn. But I can try!
Is this an expensive modification? Will it still work with traditional films afterwards?
I know my other 3.5F Planar works ok with Acros (although I lose about a frame), but my Schneider 3.5F just doesn’t work, which I have found out just now.
I also have a full mamiya C220 Kit, to which I could dedicate my last 100-ish Acros rolls...
Is this an expensive modification? Will it still work with traditional films afterwards?
I know my other 3.5F Planar works ok with Acros (although I lose about a frame), but my Schneider 3.5F just doesn’t work, which I have found out just now.
I also have a full mamiya C220 Kit, to which I could dedicate my last 100-ish Acros rolls...
Is this an expensive modification? Will it still work with traditional films afterwards?
I know my other 3.5F Planar works ok with Acros, (although I lose about a frame), but my Schneider 3.5F just doesn’t work, which I have found out just now.
I also have a full mamiya C220 Kit, to which I could dedicate my last 100-ish Acros rolls...
That's a real bummer and I can't offer any help but out of curiosity: Is this the old Acros film or the new stuff that is the problem and is it only a Rolleiflex problem or might it affect other cameras? My impression is that everyone here is agreeing that Acros is incompatible with this make of Rolleiflex camera without adjustments that may or may not make the Rolleiflex have problems with other 120 films? Is this the correct conclusion to what is being said/.
So Acros is unique in presenting a problem with a Rolleiflex?
Thanks
pentaxuser
Doesn‘‘t Fuji plan to reintroduce Acros? you should be safe on that front. Good luck and enjoy your vacation!You are right.
But imagine for a second, you go to Iceland and decide to dedicate all your acros that you purchased, which was supposed to be the last ever. Wouldn’t that be a horrible scenario?
My 2.8E even had this issue with Tri-X. I had it calibrated and it worked afterwards. As a matter of fact I much prefer the loading mechanism of the Rolleicors, Rolleiflex T and FX/GX (no, I don‘t own all those modelsMy 2.8F had the very same issue with Acros last year,
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