accuracy of temps for cross processing.

[StepheKoontz]

Hi, I have some old E6 film I plan to shoot with the idea of cross processing it in C-41 chemicals. If I try doing this at home, since the colors are gonna be all wonky anyway, do I need to be super concerned about maintaining perfect temps during development? I would think not but never attempted this. Also any tips on doing this are also appreciated!

 

[trendland]

Hi, I have some old E6 film I plan to shoot with the idea of cross processing it in C-41 chemicals. If I try doing this at home, since the colors are gonna be all wonky anyway, do I need to be super concerned about maintaining perfect temps during development? I would think not but never attempted this. Also any tips on doing this are also appreciated!

Normal cross precessing caused high contrast I remember from the 80th...!
If you will use normal c41 temperature of your kit it should be OK!
There is no way to give correct advices in regards of your possible results!
1) your film is expired 2) you like to cross
Some experts specialized in crossing found there individual workflow from experience but they used THE same film (best for their intention/taste)!
You are able to try out ! Do it - nothing Bad can happen!

with regards

If you hold c41 temperatures not accurate your colors can suffer tolerance just from remind are +-0,2degree c ! If you are - + 0,5 degree it should not be cause the catastrophy of your live!
So you are right it just not be 100,0% correct

 

[MattKing]

What if you end up with something you like? Temperature accuracy will give you at least some hope that you can repeat the result.

 

[Rudeofus]

If you develop E6 film in C-41 soup, you won't know upfront, how long you have to develop. If your temperature is not reliable, you won't be able to develop consistently, i.e. with predictable emulsion speed and image contrast.

Conclusion: develop at any temperature which is convenient, find out which color developer times work for you at this chosen process temperature, then tightly maintain these process parameters for further work.

 

[Mick Fagan]

Presumably you will be using a C41 kit, which is fine. I would suggest that after you have cross processed any E6 in a C41 bath, then further usage of that bath using C41 films could be compromised by possibly giving you slightly skewed C41 negatives.

Back in the day when we were running huge Dip N Dunk C41 baths, we would keep any cross processed E6 until the end of the day. We then ran test strips and measured the amount of off balance the C41 bath was at after running E6 films through it. We then placed the suggested correction into the bath, with the hope it would be reasonably correct in the morning; which it usually was.

Whatever you do, if you are precise, then in the future anything you end up with that you like, should be reasonably repeatable. The less precise one is the less repeatable you may find things.

C41 is about the shortest process around, so you need to be on the ball for 3'15" then put a stop bath in (which is not in the C41 process but is not a problem to add), then you relax and do your Blix or bleach and fix baths with reasonable ease.

Mick.

 

[StepheKoontz]

C41 is about the shortest process around, so you need to be on the ball for 3'15" then put a stop bath in (which is not in the C41 process but is not a problem to add), then you relax and do your Blix or bleach and fix baths with reasonable ease.

So use a stop bath the same dilution as I would for B&W? Do I need to rinse it off or just dump blix in after? I've read what you said about not doing normal C-41 after cross processing, so I might do the C-41 I wanna do first, then start the E-6 batches.

 

[koraks]

Preferably use acetic acid for the stop bath. I always use cleaning vinegar diluted between 1+4 to 1+9. I always rinse after stop.

 

[faberryman]

Asking if your temperature has to be accurate is the same as asking whether your time has to be accurate.

 

[Mick Fagan]

So use a stop bath the same dilution as I would for B&W? Do I need to rinse it off or just dump blix in after? I've read what you said about not doing normal C-41 after cross processing, so I might do the C-41 I wanna do first, then start the E-6 batches.

Yes, whatever stop bath you have purchased for any B&W process will be alright. Then after pouring it out, pour in your blix and continue on with the process.

I myself have used a stop bath on all C41 processes I have done for about the 20 odd years I did C41 at home, certainly keeps your Bleach and/or your Blix bath cleaner and longer working.

I myself use an ascetic acid stop bath 2%.

If you do a search on this sight via a web browser, you should come up with many threads on stop baths. You can do an internal search, but if you wish and are able to do a web browser search itt will probably work out better. Usually does for me.

I would normally walk to my darkroom and give you some figures, but I am currently on the road in New Zealand.

Mick.