Accidentally shot Provia 100F at E.I 125

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kyuseok

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Hi, I accidentally shot Provia 100F at E.I 125 which I took portrait with at between the golden hour and dusk.

My local lab can push process in increments of 1/2 stops so I can process the film as either E.I 80 or E.I 125.

What would you do if you were to choose one speed?

Thanks!
 
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Hey!

If I'm honest, if it were fresh film, then I'd get them to process as if it were shot at 100. 125 is 1/3 (not 1/2) of a stop underexposure. Slide film (fresh, at least) favours underexposure more than overexposure (unlike negative film) and such a slight underexposure will not have much impact (I'd bet the margin for error in the metering - no offence to your capabilities - is more than that anyway).

If it were expired, then I'd definitely go for +0.5 stop (i.e. process as EI140, which is a half stop over 100).

Good luck!
 

miha

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Process normally.
 

qqphot

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I wouldn't change processing at all. Exposing at 125 is a reasonable choice to do intentionally if you want to protect highlights anyway.
 

MattKing

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Many prefer using an EI of 125 with ISO 100 slide film.
How contrasty was the light? What sort of Subject Luminance Range were you working with?
 

wiltw

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You are likely to thank yourself for your 'error' after you see more saturated colors in the scene due to the 'underexposure' of your slide film! Process normally.
 

Sirius Glass

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Process normally
 
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kyuseok

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Thanks a lot to everyone who replied!
I will have the lab process my Provia normally.

Many prefer using an EI of 125 with ISO 100 slide film.
How contrasty was the light? What sort of Subject Luminance Range were you working with?
I am afraid that I am an amateur who relies everything on an incident meter and a good-ol' Mamiya without any knowledge regarding Luminance Range. However as far as I remember the light was not that contrasty.

Thanks!
 

MattKing

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I am afraid that I am an amateur who relies everything on an incident meter and a good-ol' Mamiya without any knowledge regarding Luminance Range. However as far as I remember the light was not that contrasty.

Don't worry about that "amateur" approach - it doesn't in any way stop you from making great photos.
I ask about Subject Luminance Range ("SLR") because, even if you don't have the ability to respond with detailed measurements, you can still give us an idea about whether the subject had deep shadows and brilliant highlights - a large SLR - or whether the light was even, with shadows and highlights much closer to each other - a smaller SLR.
The latter is, of course, better for most portraits. It is also more forgiving when it comes to metering.
You can actually give a more numerical response using an incident meter - just record the incident reading of the shadowed areas, as well as an incident reading of the fully illuminated areas, and report the difference. That is actually a very useful technique with any type of incident metering.
 
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