About kallitype selenium toning and kallitype itself

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
198,725
Messages
2,779,961
Members
99,691
Latest member
Vlad @ausgeknipst
Recent bookmarks
1

henrit

Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2018
Messages
22
Location
Fortaleza, Ceara, Brazil
Format
Digital
Hi, folks,
First, a question about kallitype selenium toning: is there any practical objective assessment of the protective action of selenium toning over kallitype prints? (A simple example would be a bleaching solution that doesn't work on properly toned pictures). I have been using the formula given by Sandy King (selenium in sodium sulfite), not diluted krst, and I think I see a discrete color shift during toning, but that might be just wishful thinking.
Now a question about kallitype process. Being no chemical expert, it was much to my surprise that I recently read somewhere that ferric amonium oxalate (fao) is not suitable for kallitypes. I've been making what I believed to be kallitypes for months, using fao (though long expired), with fairly good results, and I'm inclined to keep using it, given the astronomically high price of the right single ferric oxalate. What's wrong with my recipes? And what process am I working with after all?
 

nmp

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2005
Messages
2,014
Location
Maryland USA
Format
35mm
Hi, folks,
First, a question about kallitype selenium toning: is there any practical objective assessment of the protective action of selenium toning over kallitype prints? (A simple example would be a bleaching solution that doesn't work on properly toned pictures). I have been using the formula given by Sandy King (selenium in sodium sulfite), not diluted krst, and I think I see a discrete color shift during toning, but that might be just wishful thinking.
Now a question about kallitype process. Being no chemical expert, it was much to my surprise that I recently read somewhere that ferric amonium oxalate (fao) is not suitable for kallitypes. I've been making what I believed to be kallitypes for months, using fao (though long expired), with fairly good results, and I'm inclined to keep using it, given the astronomically high price of the right single ferric oxalate. What's wrong with my recipes? And what process am I working with after all?

This thread might be of help.

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/kallitype-with-fe-iii-ammonium-oxalate.43141/
 
OP
OP

henrit

Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2018
Messages
22
Location
Fortaleza, Ceara, Brazil
Format
Digital
Hi, Niranjan,
This selenium toner formula is shown by Sandy King in his website:
http://sandykingphotography.com/resources/technical-writing/the-kallitype-process
Here's a cut&paste from it:
"SELENIUM TONER #1
To prepare a stock solution, add 100g sodium sulfite to 100ml hot water and allow to dissolve completely. Then add 10g selenium powder.
A working toner is mixed by adding 100ml stock solution to water to make a total of 1000ml, or the equivalent. Stronger solutions give browner prints, weaker solutions, cooler tones.
"
As I have no chemical expertise, I asked a professional chemist friend to prepare the solution, which he did, though complaining about the amount of selenium remaining unsolved.
As I said, I can see no significant change in image tones, even after ten to fifteen minutes of toning bath.
 

nmp

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2005
Messages
2,014
Location
Maryland USA
Format
35mm
Hi, Niranjan,
This selenium toner formula is shown by Sandy King in his website:
http://sandykingphotography.com/resources/technical-writing/the-kallitype-process
Here's a cut&paste from it:
"SELENIUM TONER #1
To prepare a stock solution, add 100g sodium sulfite to 100ml hot water and allow to dissolve completely. Then add 10g selenium powder.
A working toner is mixed by adding 100ml stock solution to water to make a total of 1000ml, or the equivalent. Stronger solutions give browner prints, weaker solutions, cooler tones.
"
As I have no chemical expertise, I asked a professional chemist friend to prepare the solution, which he did, though complaining about the amount of selenium remaining unsolved.
As I said, I can see no significant change in image tones, even after ten to fifteen minutes of toning bath.

Thanks for the info and the link. I had contemplated making such a toner myself (fashioned after the old Kodak T-55 toner) some time ago, but abandoned the idea as I didn't feel like dealing with the hazards of selenium powder and the problems involved in dissolving. I had not seen Sandy King's description so I thought may be there was an alternate/easier way, which unfortunately that does not seem the case.

I ended up using KRST which in dilution of 1:60 works very nicely for the Centennial POP I was working on at the time with, with both increased Dmax and significant tonal change. Then I tried to use the same for salt prints but without much success. In the mean time I found that a toner made from Himalayan Black Salt (Kala Namak) did a pretty good job. Perhaps it can work for kallitypes as well. More on that here:

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...out-black-salt-makes-a-terrific-toner.148338/
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/salt-free-salt-print-toned-with-himalayan-black-salt.155417/

:Niranjan.
 
OP
OP

henrit

Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2018
Messages
22
Location
Fortaleza, Ceara, Brazil
Format
Digital
Thanks so much, Niranjan. Surely I'll try your Himalayan salt toner on my atypical kallitype prints.
As promised, I made the test, but had no success. However, I can´t get to any conclusions, since the salt I've got is under suspiction: I found three brands, each one with a different look...
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom