henrit
Member
Hi, folks,
First, a question about kallitype selenium toning: is there any practical objective assessment of the protective action of selenium toning over kallitype prints? (A simple example would be a bleaching solution that doesn't work on properly toned pictures). I have been using the formula given by Sandy King (selenium in sodium sulfite), not diluted krst, and I think I see a discrete color shift during toning, but that might be just wishful thinking.
Now a question about kallitype process. Being no chemical expert, it was much to my surprise that I recently read somewhere that ferric amonium oxalate (fao) is not suitable for kallitypes. I've been making what I believed to be kallitypes for months, using fao (though long expired), with fairly good results, and I'm inclined to keep using it, given the astronomically high price of the right single ferric oxalate. What's wrong with my recipes? And what process am I working with after all?
First, a question about kallitype selenium toning: is there any practical objective assessment of the protective action of selenium toning over kallitype prints? (A simple example would be a bleaching solution that doesn't work on properly toned pictures). I have been using the formula given by Sandy King (selenium in sodium sulfite), not diluted krst, and I think I see a discrete color shift during toning, but that might be just wishful thinking.
Now a question about kallitype process. Being no chemical expert, it was much to my surprise that I recently read somewhere that ferric amonium oxalate (fao) is not suitable for kallitypes. I've been making what I believed to be kallitypes for months, using fao (though long expired), with fairly good results, and I'm inclined to keep using it, given the astronomically high price of the right single ferric oxalate. What's wrong with my recipes? And what process am I working with after all?