There's no reason to over-pay for an F, get and E, or E2 if you want interchangeable screens. And the condition overall is more important than if its a Xenotar or Planar (I've got 2 of each, trust me, it does not matter). And I second contacting Jurgen. He's a good guy. Worked on some stuff for me years ago when he was here in the states.
IIIIh....!
No, don't say E's and such.....aargh, now I gotto start my thinking all over again!
Thanks for great tips and links ^^
Hi
I am in the marked for a Rolleiflex and I am currently looking for a Rolleiflex model 2.8F incarnation.
I see on the "Date my rollei" page that the "last" Rolleiflex 2.8F series started in 1969 ( http://www.rolleirepairs.com/models.htm ).
What I don't quite understand is; How _long_ was this line produced, before being replaced? (was it replaced by the GX and FX?)
While scanning eBay, I've yet to find a Rolleiflex from the 70's, 80's or 90's (what is the name of the models produced then?), I only find stuff from the 40's to late 60's.
I am, off course, looking for a camera in good working and good cosmetic condition, but I am not looking for a piece to display in my living-room, I actually plan to shoot with the thing.
Looks like a reasonable price to pay for a version from the 60's is around 1200-1500 in Europe, depending on condition and accessories I suppose? (after comparing prices)
So, I'm thinking that newer is always better, as long as the condition is good........or is it?
I was planning to go for the Planar version, although I get from various discussions that xenotar may be just as sharp (or even sharper some say).
I like the look of the Classic 2.8F, but why aren't there any Rolleiflex 2.8Fs' around for sale from the 70's, 80's and 90's ?
- Did rolleiflex quit the whole thing between 1970 and 2000-something, when they came out with the GX version?
Any Rollei-nerds around with some clarification on this?
Forgot you're in Europe. If Jurgen can be found use him.
Is everything else working? Have you been able to shoot and develop any film? A quick, temporary fix for the film trigger that sometimes works: put a layer of tape around the upper feeler roller. This increases its 'sensitivity' and can make it trip for thinner emulsions. No answer in the long run but it will let you test out the rest of the camera if it works.
Unfortunately Jürgen don't service cameras outside the EU (Norway is in Europe, but we are not a EU member), but I sent a mail to Mr. Mickleboro in the UK to see if he is willing (I've red some great reviews on him as well.
I sent a mail to Mr. Mickleboro in the UK to see if he is willing (I've red some great reviews on him as well).
Jurgen's site says he does service on a worldwide basis. If B. Mickleboro doesn't work out I recommend Jurgen based on the service he did for me on my '37.
Good luck.
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