I have to say that was my first thought when I started to read some of the posts in this thread. Certainly a possibility these day, and your comment about fake auto parts is very true.a lot of batteries of all kinds are counterfeit and potentially suspect. Nowadays they can look like the real deal.
That’s not the logic used by the knock-off companies. They seem very happy making little profit per piece part if they can flood the market. Lots and lots of tint profits eventually add up to real money it seems.AA alkalines are amongst the most cheap consumables, more so if bought as a house-brand. There sure are more profitable products to fake.
AA alkalines are amongst the most cheap consumables, more so if bought as a house-brand. There sure are more profitable products to fake.
If you use flash with a mechanical camera, those could explode. Do you use flashlights? Cellphones? Pretty hard to get away from batteries.Did anyone experienced same problems with CR123A? I have many point and shoots that are using those. After reading this, one more reason to use 100% mechanical, pretty scary stories.
If you use flash with a mechanical camera, those could explode.
Same darn thing, Lith-Ion, "lithium" colloquially.
Paul, I wouldn't use a Zinc-Carbon-cell, those are prone to leak.... usually the cell-wall is made of zinc and gets thinner over time till the cell leaks.I just bought a six pack of AA zinc–carbon (dry cell) at the dollar store for a dollar, will see how they work in a winder or motor drive, may not last as long but may fewer issues with overheating and failure. Or I may be just over reacting, I've shot with alkaline batteries for a very long and so far just one failure.
Paul, I wouldn't use a Zinc-Carbon-cell, those are prone to leak.... usually the cell-wall is made of zinc and gets thinner over time till the cell leaks.
Stay with the alkaline ones. Or you could try Lithium-Iron-(Di)Sulfide batteries, they should have a higher capacity.
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