A return to 35mm - finding my ideal camera(s)

[narsuitus]

... my two medium format cameras, a Mamiya 7ii and a Cambo Wide 470.

Did you use your Cambo Wide only as a medium format camera or did you also use it as a 4x5 inch large format camera?

 

[trick]

I used the Nikon F, F2, and F3 until I needed auto focus. I traded my F3 for an F4 and never looked back.


Nikon F4 by Narsuitus, on Flickr

Oh man another F4 > F3 post. My GAS is getting worse, now I'm trying to convince myself that I might need both. Any thoughts on the F4 vs F6? I always figured that if I wanted to go down at AF route in future that I'd do the F6....

 

[trick]

Did you use your Cambo Wide only as a medium format camera or did you also use it as a 4x5 inch large format camera?

Oh wow, it's funny you should ask as this is exactly something I was going to post about in the medium format forum. I'll leave the details until that post but yes, I've only used it with a Horseman 6x9 back and want to start delving into other options and set-ups.

 

[trick]

When I needed an auto focus 35mm point and shoot, I could find nothing better than the Nikon L35.


Nikon L35 by Narsuitus, on Flickr

I honestly love my L35AF. I've used it the most so far and it so easy to carry around all day around my neck.

 

[PhotoJim]

Oh man another F4 > F3 post. My GAS is getting worse, now I'm trying to convince myself that I might need both. Any thoughts on the F4 vs F6? I always figured that if I wanted to go down at AF route in future that I'd do the F6....

I've never used the F6, but I have an F5.

While I like the F5 better than the F4 for use as an autofocus body, the F4 has three major advantages:
- very simple knob-based user interface
- availability of the MB-20 battery pack to make it lighter and smaller than the more common F4s (or F4e) combinations (at the expense of slower advance rate)
- matrix metering with AI and AI-S Nikkors (unfortunately, not with AI-converted ones). To my knowledge, unless you count the FA (which had AMP, not Matrix), no other Nikon body does matrix metering with manual lenses lacking electronic connections.

 

[guangong]

After you find your ideal 35mm SLR and point & shoot cameras, you must experience the ideal 35mm rangefinder.


Leica M6 by Narsuitus, on Flickr

I was afraid to make that recommendation. Just as financially dangerous as Serious Glass recommending Hasselblad.

 

[narsuitus]

Any thoughts on the F4 vs F6?

I never considered the F6 because it lacked one of the features I really needed ... interchangeable viewfinders.

 

[Arthurwg]

Forget all of the above: Get a Nikon F6. Failing that, a Leica M7.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Check out www.keh.com they have a very good return, replace or repair guarantee plus their condition grading is very conservative. Often cheaper or competitive with eBay without the hassles. This may be your opportunity to move to Hasselblad.

I actually got my X700 from them, via their eBay outlet store. Bargain price and great quality camera! Re: Hasselblad, is there a 35mm option you're thing of? The XPANs look amazing but for that level of money I'd rather invest in medium format.

No, since you already like and use medium format I am talking about the Series V, such as the 503 CX.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Oh man another F4 > F3 post. My GAS is getting worse, now I'm trying to convince myself that I might need both. Any thoughts on the F4 vs F6? I always figured that if I wanted to go down at AF route in future that I'd do the F6....

The F100 is the best of both worlds without the weight. That is my go to 35mm camera.

 

[trick]

The F100 is the best of both worlds without the weight. That is my go to 35mm camera.

Wow, hadn't seen this as an option and definitely much more wallet-friendly! Thank you.

 

[Arthurwg]

Wow, hadn't seen this as an option and definitely much more wallet-friendly! Thank you.

I've seen new F100s for sale at $350 recently. Got to be the bargain of the century. Mine is still going strong from new without any problems.

 

[PhotoJim]

Wow, hadn't seen this as an option and definitely much more wallet-friendly! Thank you.

Just watch out. Most of them had camera backs with plastic latches, and the latches deteriorate over time. My F100 is currently in storage while I try to find a way to repair the back. (I could buy another back, but it might end up having the same problem.)

 

[trick]

Just watch out. Most of them had camera backs with plastic latches, and the latches deteriorate over time. My F100 is currently in storage while I try to find a way to repair the back. (I could buy another back, but it might end up having the same problem.)

Noted! Thank, Jim.

 

[Huss]

Ya the clue is seeing how many broken F100s are for sale on ebay.
Never seen a broken F6 on ebay...

I prefer the F4 - and I also have the F100 and F6. F4 is just awesome and crazy cheap. Mine has the small battery grip which makes a big difference on the size.

 

[Donald Qualls]

My recommendation is that you buy a cheap **** until you learn what what you want, also IMO, your first **** should sport spot meter

BLASPHEMY!!!

If spot metering is what you want, get a spot meter. You an get a 1960s vintage Pentax 1/21 for around $40, and another $35 will get you an adapter to use modern lithium cell with regulated voltage. A good spot meter and an early 35mm (1930s folder, 1950s RF, or 1950s-1960s SLR) will give you the learning tools you need, without communing with the unholy.

 

[138S]

BLASPHEMY!!!

Yeah...

Well, I just realized that OP had MF and a Cambo before... so I delete my suggestions that were for an starter.

Me, I use spot metering nearly always, I find superb the F5 Matrix meter for when I've no time to think, but I want to meter spots TTL, in that way I don't burn velvia... I'm man of Nikon...

 

[Donald Qualls]

I use my 1/21 a good bit, but not always. In fact, most of my 35mm is Sunny 16, without a meter in sight (okay, I have a meter app in my phone, but I don't use it much). I really use the spot meter or my Sekonic incident unit when I'm shooting medium format or especially for large format (where I can also specify development changes).

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I suggest you work with the four new cameras you acquired in a short period of time. After you have used them for a few months, you may discover that you need nothing else.

I agree with this.

 

[138S]

In fact, most of my 35mm is Sunny 16

Donald, Hmmm... the 16 is a very primitive recipe... there are artists that make way more sophisticated calculations... see here min 0:40 , her last exhibition is was impressive... so I'm considering to send Sally a mail to ask her how she metters...

(Long life to the Sunny 16 !!!)

 

[Donald Qualls]

Oh, I don't let Sunny 16 limit me to only sunny conditions. Slightly hazy, f/11. Open shade on a sunny day, f/11. Mid-afternoon, open up a stop. Late afternoon, two stops (three if your film has limited red sensitivity). All the way down to office lighting or streetlights at night, open up ten stops...

 

[narsuitus]

Oh, I don't let Sunny 16 limit me to only sunny conditions.

I also do not let the Sunny 16 limit me.

My Sunny 16 Guide extends from -9 stops for shooting the Planet Mercury's transit across the sun (example: ISO 100 f/45 for 1/8000 second) to +22 stops for Star Trails (example: ISO 100; f/5.6; 1 hour).

 

[Donald Qualls]

My Sunny 16 Guide extends from -9 stops for shooting the Planet Mercury's transit across the sun (example: ISO 100 f/45 for 1/8000 second) to +22 stops for Star Trails (example: ISO 100; f/5.6; 1 hour).

I think I have that one on my computer somewhere, but don't have it fully memorized. And I'm not too proud to pull out my phone, or use an actual meter if I've got one with me (generally do if I set out specifically to make photographs), if I don't remember the exposure rule for a situation or the light looks a little "off".

 

[Craig]

I would pick one 35mm SLR system and stick with it. Don't try and build a Nikon system and a Minolta system, but rather spend the money you would on the second system for lenses or accessories for the first system. Otherwise you're either duplicating, or have the wrong body/lens combo with you for whatever you're shooting that day.

 

[Les Sarile]

Otherwise you're either duplicating, or have the wrong body/lens combo with you for whatever you're shooting that day.

How about you're duplicating and have the same lens/body combo for whatever you're shooting . . .