What I found particularly instructive was to shoot a number of scenes twice - once incident, once (average) reflective - and compare the results
Sometimes it's instructive to simply spot meter, then incident meter and see what difference there is in the suggested exposures, if any and think about why.
Sometimes it's instructive to simply spot meter, then incident meter and see what difference there is in the suggested exposures, if any and think about why.
That doesn't make sense. A spot meter has a very limited angle of read, typically 1° to 5° — it is very explicit in just what it is viewing. How great is the tonal range that a spot meter can see andcompared to the blanket 'view' of incident which cannot determine a dark or light tone, or a range of tones?
I may ask, not to worry too much about the incident metering.
Consider,
"Pegging comes in three basic types; shadow, mid-tone, and highlight. When we peg we are simply picking one of the three as the most important point for that shot." - markbarendt
then spice the illumination. My preferred way is E.I and your negs will never ever disappoint you.
When the exposure is based on shadows and want to keep shadows as shadows then we may need adjustment(spicing up) on the metered value. -1 or -3/2
On contrary when the exposure is based on highlights and want to retain highlights as highlights we may need similar adjustment. +1 or +3/2 stops
On diffused lighting, we may not require to do any such adjustments.
Spot meter something you think naturally falls at Zone V, 18% gray, etc. You can tell how good you are at recognizing that reflectance by doing an incident reading in the same light. If you're dead on, the EV should be the same for spot or incident.That doesn't make sense. A spot meter has a very limited angle of read, typically 1° to 5° it is very explicit in just what it is viewing. How great is the tonal range that a spot meter can see andcompared to the blanket 'view' of incident which cannot determine a dark or light tone, or a range of tones?
Provided flare is taken care.
...and spectrals.
May I join the long list of those who've found Mark's methods quite sound? My shots of the unlit church interiors usually had 1.5 stops difference between my reflected & incident readings (I'm no expert on metering). His comment about most people doing better w/ incident readings in tricky situations are what got me to try & use it on what for me were important shots. Together w/ The Flying Camera's rule of thumb about reciprocity failure (from very fallible memory) was 1 more stop for 30s-1min. Over a min - add a 2nd stop. I had 3 exposures that were 16 min., though most were 30-60s. They turned out better than a rookie has a right to expect. Thank You, Mark. and also TFC.
Some humble, basic questions - I have great powers of confusing myself.
SBR? = Subject Brilliance/brightness Range?
BTZS metering method: Do I understand correctly that puts the dome over the sensor, points at the sun (for a sunlit scene), then points towards the camer location, subtracts the lower reading from the higher - and then what? I searched for the method & haven't found anything yet.
Matt, thank You.
Mark, thank you also. So the metering method is more generic than specific. I'll keep looking. Many thanks again.
BTZS metering method: Do I understand correctly that puts the dome over the sensor, points at the sun (for a sunlit scene), then points towards the camer location, subtracts the lower reading from the higher - and then what? I searched for the method & haven't found anything yet.
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