RattyMouse
Member
Then I even wonder more that you do not mix your own wetting agent.
I dont need to reinvent the wheel.
Then I even wonder more that you do not mix your own wetting agent.
I should have, but was worried that getting those lone 35mm strips of film back into a small Patterson tank without a reel might damage them.
Well being a dyed in the wool "finger in the air" photographer for over 50 years putting only 2 drops in 1000ml works just fine for me. Plus I have water so hard you have to beat it with a hammer to get it in a glass to drink it. And yes, you chew it first before swallowing it.
I have never had water streaks on my negs.
Unless you are using a turkey baster for measuring, two drop of Photoflo (0.1ml) in 1000ml of water (1:10,000) is water, but it certainly won't hurt anything.Well being a dyed in the wool "finger in the air" photographer for over 50 years putting only 2 drops in 1000ml works just fine for me. Plus I have water so hard you have to beat it with a hammer to get it in a glass to drink it. And yes, you chew it first before swallowing it. I have never had water streaks on my negs.
Unless you are using a turkey baster for measuring, two drop of Photoflo (0.1ml) in 1000ml of water (1:10,000) is water, but it certainly won't hurt anything.
What do you think, as a surfactant engineer, of what I use... 1:2000 vs 1:200Seriously, how can anyone believe 1:10,000 does anything at all?
LOL @ turkey baster!!!
I use just two drops in the dev. tank with the final rinse, any more I find can cause problems.I've read many times posts where people say they just use a few drops of Photoflo when they are doing their final rinse. Today I decided to try something similar to that. I developed two rolls of Acros in 600 mls of fluid and for my final rinse, instead of doing the typical 1:200 dilution of Photoflo, I added 7-8 drops which is more than a few.
When I hung my film I saw clear signs that the wetting agent was doing nothing. Water all across the film was beading up. The surface tension of the water was not lowered anywhere near enough for the liquid to thin out and drain off the film. I am preparing for a pretty miserable amount of drying marks.
It's my own fault for trying this. It goes against everything I know as a surfactant scientist of the past 23 years. The concentration of surfactant in the water is nowhere near the critical micelle concentration which is where maximum lowering of the surface tension occurs.
There's a reason why Kodak recommends 1:200.
What do you think, as a surfactant engineer, of what I use... 1:2000 vs 1:200
Would I be just as well off using water rinse only? I do see sheeting and there are a few bubbles on the surface of the tray. Seems to be doing something.
Do you measure your drops with an eyedropper?I use just two drops in the dev. tank with the final rinse, any more I find can cause problems.
I verified today.If you see sheeting, you are doing OK. I saw none whatsoever and was using far more than 1:2000.
Yes, no more because if you use too much it can cause more problems than it solves..Do you measure your drops with an eyedropper?
Well, it looks like we've empirically arrived at a conclusion that water quality affects the sheeting action of surfactants; and that Kodak's recommended dilution for Photo Flo is likely an average value with a safety factor built in.
Who are you going to leave the other two bottle too?And you’ll never believe what happened next...
RattyMouse convinced Bill Burk to change the way he mixes Photo-Flo, despite his long-held belief in discussions on multiple threads that he was right to “use a few drops”. Now Bill Burk is using a full syringe, 1cc Photo-Flo per 500cc water. Good thing he’s got three bottles of the stuff.
About that. Though truthful, I was being deceptive about the details of how much I have. The 16 ounce bottle I decant from has about 4 ounces left... the third bottle has about an ounce left and a little bit of crud swimming around. And my working bottle has about 3 ounces left. I was going to consolidate them until I saw the bit of contamination and figured it was safer keeping them separated.Who are you going to leave the other two bottle too?
I verified today.
I doubled my usual concentration and at 1:1000 ratio the mix does NOT have enough Photo-Flo in it to create real sheeting. On the emulsion side there is sheeting. But on the base side water breaks into droplets.
I doubled again. At 1:500 sheeting is adequate on both sides. I can imagine 1:500 is appropriate for my reverse osmosis filtered water... and that 1:200 would be useful for tap water or to provide plenty of room for safety.
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