A Couple Nikons to Try: N2000 (F-301) and N90s (F90x)

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ic-racer

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I thought the N2000 would be interesting as it is one of the last manual focus Nikon cameras made. Also, it came with the export version of the 50/1.8 AI-s, kind-of-pancake lens and I thought that would be a nice lens to have.

The N90s...well, just because I did not have one and was curious about it.

DSC_0712.JPG
 
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The N90s is kind of like a brick. Sounds and feels like it will last forever. In your hands if feels like a 'real' camera. It seems more related to the F100 than the N80.

What advantage over the F100? Mostly cost, seems N90s can be had for much less than the F100.
 

Paul Howell

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As I understand it the N90 will only work with G lens in a crippled mode, although D lens work fine. The F100 has more advanced metering and AF. I'm still looking for N90S, have not found one in my price range.
 
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I wound up with more cameras than I needed. The one in the picture came with the lens and cost $25, but was very late in the mail. They said it was lost. So, out of spite, I bid $20 each on two more N2000 auctions the ended at just the same time. Turns out I won both; $9 and the other for $15.
Then, the first one with the lens actually showed up! So, I wound up with three of them.
 
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ic-racer

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As I understand it the N90 will only work with G lens in a crippled mode, although D lens work fine. The F100 has more advanced metering and AF. I'm still looking for N90S, have not found one in my price range.

Yes, so I tried both AI-s lens and G lens on the N90s:

AI-s: works as expected in Aperture Auto and Manual (with spot or center meter) and focus confirmation. I was a little confused at first because, the "F--" symbol stays on, even though it is actually working. Those with later cameras know the "F--" symbol usually indicates it won't work.
 
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I put a "G" AF-S lens on the N90s and it runs the focus motor in the lens fine. Shutter Auto and Program work as expected. It does not give any "Err" in Manual or Aperture Auto but, of course, only exposes at smallest aperture.

And in Program, you can alter the aperture with the wheel; the "Flexible Program" which is useful.

I was looking at that Dandilion chip for the AI-s lens. The AI-s lens will work on the N2000, f100, N90s and F6 without the chip, but it might be nice to have the aperture readout and Shutter Auto modes, which the Dandilion chip claims to offer.
 
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Sirius Glass

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I too have enjoyed using the Nikon N90 camera too. I presently use it as a backup camera for my AF color and black & white film cameras.
 

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As I understand it the N90 will only work with G lens in a crippled mode, although D lens work fine. The F100 has more advanced metering and AF. I'm still looking for N90S, have not found one in my price range.

Curious to know what's your price range. They're cheap already, around $25-30 if I'm not mistaken. I have to wear straitjacket so that I don't buy them.
 
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Mine was $35, but I did spend about a month waiting for the right one in that range. Most I saw in that range were pretty beat up. This assumed that being listed as "for parts" just meant that they did not ever want to see it back again and it wound up working just fine.

I looked for one that was unmolested. For example still sticky on the back and little things like the little light bulb picture on the light button was not worn off and no major scratches. Because there is no way to check shutter count, one has to look at cosmetics.

This is what mine looked like for $35 and it cleaned up nice. I even kept the alcohol off the little pictures on the back and preserved them.

Screen Shot 2024-12-03 at 6.33.29 PM.jpg
 
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reddesert

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There are a lot of N90 and N90s out there for the adoption. IME the main thing to look out for is the condition of the plastic AA battery holder. If batteries corroded in the holder it can break and become unusable, and replacements are no longer inexpensive. The MB-10 grip is also usable but adds to the bulk.

I have been meaning to try to develop a 3D scan of battery holders for the N90 and N8008, but have not gotten very far, as the 3D printer I have access to that can do scanning uses the maker's buggy proprietary software. There are now websites that may be able to create a 3D model based on a set of uploaded 2D pictures. Even with a 3D model, one would still have to build the metal battery contacts.
 

Paul Howell

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Curious to know what's your price range. They're cheap already, around $25-30 if I'm not mistaken. I have to wear straitjacket so that I don't buy them.

I've been looking on Craigslist, here in the Phoenix Meto area going for around $90. I started to look at Ebay and KEH, would like to get a 90s with 50mm AF.
 
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As mentioned, due to a "lost item" snafu with the first N2000, I bid on two more that ended at the same time and won both. Then, somewhat unexpectedly, the first one arrived.
The most inexpensive one ($11) had a battery leak that needed to be repaired. Otherwise they all are in perfect working condition. I tested them with my shutter tester and light meter tester and collimator.


NIKON N2000.JPG
N2000 BEFORE 2.jpg
N2000 BEFOE.jpg
 
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I felt like Andreas Thaler here; cleaning leaking battery damage in a Nikon :smile:
I unsoldered the metal parts, soaked in rust remover and then polished with a soft metal brush.
DSC_0732.JPG
DSC_0734.JPG
 
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Afterward all works well!
Yes, those batteries are only in there for testing; I have eight AAA eneloop batteries on the way.
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I've always been a Canon guy but in the last couple of years I picked up an N80 then ran across an N90s for peanuts, so I had to get that too of course, then a 6006 for a couple lenses and flash... I have a bunch of Nikon stuff now and I don't think it even cost me $50. I prefer the N90s. Reminds me of the old days at the height of film. Fun to take out and use occasionally. Solid camera. Only annoyance is switching between the N90 and N80, on one you have to lock the aperture and on the other you have to unlock it.

It is almost criminal what older AF cameras cost these days. Not sure why young people are so obsessed with Leicas when old Nikons and Minoltas are practically throw aways.
 

MFstooges

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I've been looking on Craigslist, here in the Phoenix Meto area going for around $90. I started to look at Ebay and KEH, would like to get a 90s with 50mm AF.
When it comes to photo gears I find Craigsliststers are second in delusional scale with facebook market place posters took the first place.
 
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I picked up an N2000 at a camera shop from their free bin. Needed a new battery holder as the old one was chipped, otherwise worked great.

Fun little camera - the shutter sound is perfectly 80s. I wound up grabbing a 50 1.4 and gave it to a cousin who was looking for a camera as an early xmas gift. I think it’ll serve her better than it would me, as all my stuff is Pentax.
 

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For Nikon lens/body compatibility, Ken Rockwell's page is a good overview: https://kenrockwell.com/nikon/compatibility-lens.htm
He explains what modes you can use with what lens, for example an N90 will work in: A and M with a manual focus AI lens; all modes with an AF lens with aperture ring; and only P and S modes with a G lens (no aper ring). This seems perverse, but it is all about which couplings from lens to camera are mechanical vs electronic.

For the N2000, read the N2020 line but just remember the N2000 doesn't have AF. An N2000 or N2020 is at the center of one of my more humiliating photography episodes, about 25 years ago. I was asked to photograph an award ceremony at work, and our PR/development person handed me her camera, an N2000 or N2020. I took some photos with hers and some with my manual camera, and I hit the end of the roll on hers (motor drive), but then I got stuck, so I finished out the event on my camera. After the event, I realized that her camera had a manual rewind crank. I knew perfectly well how to use the crank, as I'd been using one for 15-20 years and my own camera that day had one. It just hadn't occurred to me that a motorized camera without an advance lever, might have a manual rewind crank.
 
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The leather dye was deteriorating on the strap.
Nikon strap 1.JPG
 
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Laquer thinner or acetone can be used to remove the old leather dye.
DSC_0748.JPG
 
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The leather was re-dyed with latex paint.
DSC_0751.JPG
Nikon N2000 final.JPG
 
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Prest_400

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I really liked the F80 as go around SLR camera

The Nikon N8008/F801 and F90/N90 are a Favorite of mine, and got for 40 quid total for one of each in a package, great bang for the buck nowadays and features.

If anything the F90 is a bit heavy (with the batteries specially). I found the F801 more rudimentary in AF so mostly used the latter model. However, using more Medium format now that these cameras sit around home.

I like to browse for lenses, as sometimes it is better and cheaper to get a kit with body! At the end I just skip buying as want instead to spend in film instead. Last summer I got another F90 kit but never used it yet.

Seeing a F801 quite cheap, with the ubiquitous 35-70 kit, listed for 10$ equivalent atm in a local auction... Should again bid just because! Though I do want a 50mm and haven't gotten one again sole or with a kit yet.
What are your opinions of the 35-70 3.3-4.5?

Have not tried the N2000 series, but nowadays that 80-90s clunkyness is much cooler.
 

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@ic-racer Looks like a dog used that N90s as a pillow for a few years. I too like to buy things that look ugly as sin as long as the problems seem to only be on the surface level. My Canon T90 was similar, it developed some kind of new finish from being scratched so much.
 

Sirius Glass

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I have the Nikon N75, N90, F100, and 7Zii and I usually use then in the AF mode. I have overlapping zoom lenses from a Nikon 20mm to 35mm, Nikon 28mm to 200mm, Tamron 28mm to 300mm and Tamron 150mm to 600mm as well as a 2x extender and a collection of Fisheye and various wide angle lenses. I also have a 7Zii 24mm to 200mm lens.
 

Paul Howell

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When it comes to photo gears I find Craigsliststers are second in delusional scale with facebook market place posters took the first place.

For the most I have the same experience, I did find a Minolta 600si and X700 at Ebay prices. I start with CL as I can see the item before I buy.
 
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