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A BW paper developer recommendation

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I don't mix my own chemistry from scratch but for those looking for an accurate scale, check an office supply for a battery operated mail scale that measures in both ounces and grams. I bought one rather inexpensive and absolutely accurate as measured against a scientific set of brass weights. the lightest weight I had was 1/10 G so I would assume it would measure lighter weights since the display goes to two decimal points.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/
 
Another vote for PF130. At 1:1 for 2 minutes it's gorgeous.

i am another ansco ( forumlary ) 130 person.
it gives a long delicate scale if you want it to,
and lasts for a very very long time.
i mix about 6-7 gallons at the beginning of the year and
use it little by little. when i get to the end, it is very bit as good
as when i first mixed it. if you are daring, you can use it for your film too.

have fun!
john
 
Thanks. I already mix simple darkroom recipes like cyanotype and gum dichromate emulsions. I have a cheap kitchen scale and it looks like I have to upgrade my scales to weigh out fractions of a gram. I'm going to look into it.

If you are already mixing for alternative processes the vast majority of other photographic chemicals will be a piece of cake.
 
Thanks

If you are already mixing for alternative processes the vast majority of other photographic chemicals will be a piece of cake.

Thanks for the encouragement. Gotta get a Photographer's Formulary catalog now.

Best,
Don
 
Another vote for PF130. At 1:1 for 2 minutes it's gorgeous.

Agree 100%. Mixing your own chemistry can be fun and rewarding. You can try it and see how you like it. In the end though, I personally think it's easier to stick with a tried and true developer like 130 and dilute it 1:1. Working solution keeps for months. LPD is the other great developer I'd recommend. I reserve mixing chemistry for toners.
 
You don't really need a set of scales - a set of measuring spoons from the grocery store is more than adequate. Consistency is more important than accuracy. A spatula to level off the measurement can be a help. OTOH, a quick search through Amazon will show lots of good cheap scales.

For very small amounts of chemicals it can be a good idea to mix up a 10% dilution that is then measured out. This is very common with P. Bromide and Phenidone. Bromide can be diluted with water, Phenidone is best kept diluted in Propylene Glycol but I have had good luck keeping it in +90% isotropy alcohol in a glass bottle.

Teaspoon equivalents are shown in the back of the Darkroom Cookbook.

The highest cost items in developer are S. Sulfite and S. Carbonate. These can be had most cheaply from pool supply stores or from sources on ebay. S. Carbonate (washing soda) used to be available at the grocery but seems to have disappeared with our current national paranoia (terrorism works - the country is terrified). You can make S. Carbonate by baking S. Bicarbonate (available cheaply at Costco) - google for the method.
 
Looks like my mom should have gotten me that chemistry set I asked for when I was a kid :smile:
 
Everyone has ones taste for good developers.

However it would be quite interesting to do a simple test with one paper type and couple of developer, get data and draw some figures. Where would the differences be?
For example Neutol, D-72 and Multigrade.. For some reason Neutol seems to have a bit bad reputation.
I guess that there are some comparison done, any source for curves?
 
I doubt you would notice any worthwhile differences from a whole panoply of different standard print developers unless they are for a special purpose. Pick one from a reputable manufacturer that is readily available and stick with it.
 
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