8x10 neg developing options

[mark]

Okay. I have had it with my unicolor drum. It will do four 5x7 negs flawlessly, but leaves wave marks on my 8x10 negs. I tried homemade tubes for 5x7 and while the negs came out great I found the process frustrating. SO what are my reasonably priced options? I remember at one point some folks were using welding rod tubes. Anyone still using them? How are they working?

 

[PHOTOTONE]

The most reasonable priced option for consistent developing of 8x10, or really any Large Format Film, is your plain everyday print developing trays.
I have consistently developed 8x10 and 4x5 in print trays with the interleaving method. You, of course have to do it in the dark until the negs are in the fix, and you have to use a water soak prebath tray before you slip the negs into the developer, so they won't stick together. No sweat.

The next option, and it is more expensive, is to get the 3.5 gallon Cescolite tanks and stainless steel film hangers, and set up a dip and dunk line. Again, you have to do this in the dark. Those are your two options, if you don't want to use a drum, and in my opinion, they are better options.

 

[coriana6jp]

When I bought my 8x10 several months ago, I tried trays and the unicolor drum. And was sucessful at neither one. I ended up buying a used Jobo 3005 drum from an APUG memeber. Its expensive, but works great, no scratched negs, and even development every time. It did take me a a while to come up with the plus/minus development times. Only disadvantage to the drum is you cant really do semistand development, which I am trying to fin a good alternative.

Hope it helps.

Gary

 

[mark]

SOrry, should have mentioned that tray development is out for several reasons.

One-I destroy negatives when they get to the fix.

two-I have to develope in our one bathroom and we have two little ones and one woman in the house who is not happy with a closed off bathroom for extended periods of time (ever notice how the entire family has to pee as soon as you get the negs out of the holders)

three-blacking out our bathroom is a real PIA

four-I have to process in the tub, the counter will only hold one tray and the toilet is not on the same saide of the sink area as the counter so I can't put one there. and being on my knees for that long a time is not pleasant.

I have tried tray developing and you need a larger, more comfortable area than I have available.

Why are the jobo drums better than my unicolor drum? Wouldn't I have the same problems? I have never seen a jobo drum or used one so I am curious.

 

[coriana6jp]

Somebody else can probably explain this better than I. But, Jobo drums are designed to provide an even flow of the chemicals around the drum and film. I tried the unicolor drum as well, and had streaking. Using my 3006 drum for 4x5 and now the 3005 drum for 8x10 I have not ruined or had any problems with any negatives. (Except by my own stupidity).

Hope it helps.

Gary

 

[Jim Fitzgerald]

8x10 developing

Mark, I've used trays for my 8x10 negs and usually do six at a time. It goes pretty fast once you get the hang of it. I recently got some one gallon stainless steel tanks for 8x10. I like these because I can do 4-6 negs at a time with minimal or semi stand agitation. I also like the fact that I can develop by inspection. If you do 4 negs at a time you can be out in no time and everyone can take a pee break. I do all of my negs in my apartment bathroom tub. Get a small folding camp stool to sit on. They are great and they are the right height.Good luck to you.

Stay Focused...or Soft Focused

Jim

 

[wilsonneal]

I went through exactly what you experienced with 8x10 negs and unicolor drums. Reluctantly, because of price, I eventually switched to the Jobo 3005. It wasn't fool proof at first. At first I tried pouring the chemistry into a stationary drum, like you'd do with a unicolor, and I got streaks. I then decided you had to mimic the way a true jobo system would do it: chemicals go in while the drum is turning.

Why does a jobo work? I think for several reasons.

1. There are no protrusions (ridges) inside the tube to keep the film in place. The lack of protrusions means that developer doesn't develop funny agitation patterns around these, which cause 'extra' development. With the unicolor I frequently saw extra density along the edges that resulted in light stripes on whichever edge was against one of these ridges.

2. The top plate inside the tank, the piece that has the mouth of each tube, has a convex shape. This distributes the developer evenly into each tube as it goes around on the base.

3. Each time the developer goes into the tube it does so randomly, eliminating the regular pattern of agitation that the unicolor drum exhibits.

I use mine on a unicolor base that I have modified to not reverse.

It works very well. Sometimes on very even backgrounds (gray seamless) I still see slightly uneven development. This has been less and less since I now use a 5 minute presoak in 72 degree water.

In short, they're worth the money if you are tired of ruining negs and don't think you'll devote the time to learning the handshuffling technique.

Neal

 

[Vaughn]

Another Jobo 3005 user...

I also use an Unicole base modified to keep rotating in one direction.

I bought my 3005 new -- right before the prices took a big jump. I see them on ebay occasionally. Getting the top of is no easy task (but they have a pump thing one can buy to help remove it.) With a good long pre-wash, I have been getting great results (tho I never got real good with Rollo pyro in the drum, but others have).

The advantage in your situation would be that once you load the film in it, the lights can stay on -- and you could do it any where you have a couple of feet of counter space.

Good luck!

Vaughn

 

[Gatsby1923]

I started developing on hangers using tanks. It takes some getting used to but it is painless and much easier (for me any ways) than trays.

Dave M

 

[P C Headland]

I know some people like the Paterson Orbital print processors for developing 4x5 film. It says it will take one 8x10 sheet - has anyone tried one of these for 8x10?

I realise you can only do one sheet at a time, but they don't use very much chemicals (<150ml).

Some links where people seem to use them for 8x10:
here and here

 

[mark]

So, the 3005 tube is what I would use for 8x10. How many 8x10s will it fit? Also, anyone out there using the welding tubes or other BTZS tube type concoction?

 

[wilsonneal]

The 3005 holds up to 5 sheets of up to 8x10 film.

 

[ZoneIII]

Mark,

I realize that you cannot develop your film in daylight (trays or tanks) for the reasons that you described so my answer won't help you but maybe someone else reading this thread will find it useful. I process all my LF film in trays unless I have very large amounts such as after a long photographic trip. In that case, I often process in a dip & dunk line tank setup. You can find them very reasonably priced on eBay, etc. I have never had a problem with unevenness when using them as some people have reported. I guess it's all in how the frames are lifted out and put back in for agitation. I would use them all the time but I usually don't have enough film to justify all the chemistry and most of the time I mix my chemicals one-shot and process in trays. In your case, it sounds like a Jobo is really the answer. I am curious about one thing, though... You mention that you ruin your film when you go to the fixer. Why is that?

 

[mark]

In the developer the negs slide real nice. In the fix, I think the term is viscosity, is not there. I have tried several different fixes and they all to the same. I was given a pack of 8x10 dupe film that had been fogged to play with so I practiced my tray technique with it under the red lights of the darkroom I was working in at the time (it is amazing what you can see once your eyes adjust to the light). I also wanted to find where the damage was occuring. I could successfully develope up to six sheets of film without scratches but when they went into the fix I was getting scratches because the viscosity was not there.

I was looking at tanks and they would be a very good idea for the small space I have. The issue is the volumn of chemistry. I just don't shoot enough to warrant that amount of chemistry. Though, since they are very reasonable I was considering getting one, and some hangers, to use as a washer.

Since the 3005 tank does five sheets (about the most I have to develope at one time anyway) it seems the way to go but the thing is pretty expensive.