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8x10 film b/w recommendation

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carioca

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Nov 16, 2005
Messages
114
Location
Paris
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Hi,
a long time I haven't been on APUG, I have been busy with alternative processes, wet plate collodion mostly.
In parallel, I'd like to shoot some film again.
I'm aware that a choice of film is very subjective, but with reduced availabilities of classical films nowadays, what would you recommend as a good start/alternative?
My favored film used to be Tri-X, but it is getting very difficult to get 8x10 sheet in France now.

Films that are commercially available here: Foma 100/200/400, Adox CHS II 100, Ilford FP+ (HP5+ is available too, but I never liked it).
My favoured dev's are Kodax X-tol, Rodinal and PMK.

Thanks for your input.

Sidney

www.sidneykapuskar.tumblr.com/
 
I shot Foma 200 in 4X5, same emulsion as in 8X10, I develop in MCM 100 and the Foma version of X-tol at ISO 160, but last week I mixed my last packet of Ilford Microphen, pushed to Foma 200 to ISO 400, gain is good, nice shadow detail, don't know if I will keep Microphen on hand, I was impressed. I will process a dozen more sheets in the next couple of weeks, once it is gone I will decide on Microphen or stick with MCM 100 and X-tol. My second choice would be either Tmax or Delta 400.
 
I find Foma 100 to be really beautiful in 4x5 - if I had an 8x10 camera it would be what I gravitated too.

If you like the grainier tri-x look, Foma 400 shot around 200ISO or so might be worth some experimentation.
 
I shot 8x10 Tri-X for about 25 years, but it's now just too darn expensive! My favorite at the moment is HP-5+ souped in Pyrocat-HD.

Best regards,
AlanH
 
I shot 8x10 Tri-X for about 25 years, but it's now just too darn expensive! My favorite at the moment is HP-5+ souped in Pyrocat-HD

1+

HP-5 in 510 Pyro. I like its look, you may want to try one of the pyro developers.
 
I think any of the films you mention will be fine. However, depending on relative prices, you can't go wrong with FP4 in Rodinal.
 
Try the Adox CHS100 II. It's a lovely film. Otherwise, I'd say Ilford FP4+, then Fomapan 200 (shot @ 100).
 
The best film is Tmax 400. If for some reason you don't want the best, fp4 and HP5 are both fine, just be sure to expose the HP5 enough because reciprocity is not great.
 
T-Max 400 is great but have you seen the price in sheet film lately? Insane. I'll be changing from TMY-2 to HP5 for 4x5 when my current stock of TMY-2 is gone. That would be even more true at 8x10 prices.
 
"The best film is Tmax 400." "That's just like, your opinion man."

I think it's boring and overpriced ($9 a sheet in 8x10.) So clearly not the best film in my mind. "Opinions vary."
 
Thanks for all your suggestions so far. Price is an issue, the Tmax goes for around 13$ a sheet here in Europe :sad:

I think I'll give the Adox CHS100 II a try, it's a third in price.

Shooting mainly portraits in indirect natural light (rather soft), I plan to start to develop with X-tol, which I always have ready for my medium format film work.
There are many developer options on the market, but I want to narrow it down for not having to buy them all and dump them after if I don't like them.Any recommendations about a good second alternative developer? I don't mind some grain, so fine grain dev is not a must. I'm more interested in good skin tones and good contrast.

Thanks,
Sidney
 
If you are doing mainly portrait work then don't forget to consider the new Fomapan 320. The manufacturer's recommended developer is cheap enough to be used without a second thought, in case the dev choice was also a question. Availability would be through any Foma stockist.
 
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