8x10 design

[CollinB]

I'm back after a long hiatus. After a shoulder injury in 2005 I slowed down LF and eventually stopped.
But my shoulder is recovering and I'm having reconstruction done next week.
On the bright side I've taken up woodworking. In my shop is a good amount of cherry that would make for a nice LF body. Or two.
What I'm looking for is a set of designs for building a wood field camera (8x10 or 4x5).
I could probably figure it out, for the most part, as I have kept one 8x10 film holder. But having a design sure helps.

 

[ic-racer]

http://www.noahhuber.com/wp-content/uploads/construction-of-an-8-x-10-field-view-camera.pdf

 

[Jim Jones]

More at https://jongrepstad.com/building-a-large-format-camera/view-camera-construction-faq-2/. Rather than precisely follow someone else's plans, consider adapting them to the tools and materials you have or can conveniently acquire.

 

[Dan Fromm]

http://www.noahhuber.com/wp-content/uploads/construction-of-an-8-x-10-field-view-camera.pdf

ic, thanks for posting the link. I wasn't aware of it. I've added it to the list.

 

[DREW WILEY]

There have been both funky-functional and gorgeous examples made in private shops. Before I retired, I ran one of the biggest Festool dealerships in the US, and dealt with some extraordinarily skilled craftsmen. At that time Festool held international competitions, and one year the runner-up winner submitted videos of a huge gorgeous wetplate camera and matching collapsible hardwood coating booth. The no.2 prize was only $10,000 - no doubt less than what it cost to make. But all the free publicity would have been a huge boon to any cabinet shop. And in the next room I've got a framed portrait of myself at my old workplace taken by a regular customer who always had a lovely mahogany 8x10 handheld box camera with him. Some of these guys built the most expensive yachts and wood homes in the world, and were a joy to know as both customers and lifelong personal friends. ... But the bigger problem is going to be with the metal hardware rather than the woodwork per se. Cherry is quite cooperative, but an easy metal solution means CNC then black anodized aircraft aluminum - not the most gorgeous match if cosmetic appeal is a priority. The gear tracking etc is fairly easy to obtain, or could be cannibalized from an older bargain camera. For bellows, I've used Custom Bellows in the UK.

 

[Tim Stapp]

Contact Barry Young. I have his book "8 x 10 Field Camera Plans." Excellent book with plans and dimensions. I also have his book on bellows making and design. Very complete including accurately drafted drawings with dimensions and materials list. It's been a winter project for two years, maybe I'll get started on it next year.

 

[CollinB]

There have been both funky-functional and gorgeous examples made in private shops. Before I retired, I ran one of the biggest Festool dealerships in the US, and dealt with some extraordinarily skilled craftsmen. At that time Festool held international competitions, and one year the runner-up winner submitted videos of a huge gorgeous wetplate camera and matching collapsible hardwood coating booth. The no.2 prize was only $10,000 - no doubt less than what it cost to make. But all the free publicity would have been a huge boon to any cabinet shop. And in the next room I've got a framed portrait of myself at my old workplace taken by a regular customer who always had a lovely mahogany 8x10 handheld box camera with him. Some of these guys built the most expensive yachts and wood homes in the world, and were a joy to know as both customers and lifelong personal friends. ... But the bigger problem is going to be with the metal hardware rather than the woodwork per se. Cherry is quite cooperative, but an easy metal solution means CNC then black anodized aircraft aluminum - not the most gorgeous match if cosmetic appeal is a priority. The gear tracking etc is fairly easy to obtain, or could be cannibalized from an older bargain camera. For bellows, I've used Custom Bellows in the UK.

Nice. We have a good Festool shop in Columbus that I frequent. But alas I have but one piece form the green-and-gray cult offerings.
My shop is outfitted with everything I need but perhaps a shoulder plane.
My day job (I'm 5.5 yrs from retiring) includes a semi-retired German machinist who could easily assist with quality metal fabrication. (I'm not planning on having the appearance match a Tachihara/Nagaoka/Ebony, but the functionality will be there.
I'm leaning toward cherry just because I like its appearance. A few years ago I picked up a couple big bubinga planks that might also be really nice. But I've not yet researched it for suitability.

 

[DREW WILEY]

I'm not that ambitious at the moment, but have been tempted to pick up some kiln-dried cherry and fabricate a 5x7 back for my 8x10. Don't need it - just another shop itch and excuse to use my toys. If so, I'd pickle the wood with penetrating marine epoxy. Not the prettiest finish, but a great way to harden the material and keep it warp free without adding weight. I had the pleasure of being involved in the design committee of certain of these German machines, and was also the first US dealer for Makita back when true industrial standards and one on one direct communication with those at the top was the norm. But other than some remaining personal remodeling, I mostly use my toys for making darkroom stuff, not only fixtures, but big tricked-out enlargers. I might make my own portfolio cases too, but really wouldn't save any money. I've been milling and assembling my own hardwood picture frames for decades, which does save a lot of money, but certainly not time. Fun is a good enough excuse.

 

[CollinB]

I'm not that ambitious at the moment, but have been tempted to pick up some kiln-dried cherry and fabricate a 5x7 back for my 8x10. Don't need it - just another shop itch and excuse to use my toys. If so, I'd pickle the wood with penetrating marine epoxy. Not the prettiest finish, but a great way to harden the material and keep it warp free without adding weight. I had the pleasure of being involved in the design committee of certain of these German machines, and was also the first US dealer for Makita back when true industrial standards and one on one direct communication with those at the top was the norm. But other than some remaining personal remodeling, I mostly use my toys for making darkroom stuff, not only fixtures, but big tricked-out enlargers. I might make my own portfolio cases too, but really wouldn't save any money. I've been milling and assembling my own hardwood picture frames for decades, which does save a lot of money, but certainly not time. Fun is a good enough excuse.

I generally avoid kiln dried, if at all possible. Too many internal stresses, especially when cutting smalls. Air dried is always best.

 

[Alan Gales]

But the bigger problem is going to be with the metal hardware rather than the woodwork per se.

It's a good idea to make friends with a machinist. My brother-in-law makes jet plane parts from aircraft aluminum and titanium.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Depends on the specific cut and storage conditions. Air drying is difficult in this foggy coastal climate. I did inspections and consultations on endless jobs where knowledge of microclimates and specific finishes and woods was key. The average contractor usually had to lose at least sixty thousand dollars on some kind of re-do before they'd buy a decent moisture meter. Or they'd install a gorgeous million dollar deck of tropical hardwood and the finish would fail because they didn't properly prepare the surface before finishing. I've seen bankruptcies and divorces due to a gallon of cheap varnish atop incredibly fabricated custom doors and windows, some solid ebony wood.

 

[CollinB]

Depends on the specific cut and storage conditions. Air drying is difficult in this foggy coastal climate. I did inspections and consultations on endless jobs where knowledge of microclimates and specific finishes and woods was key. The average contractor usually had to lose at least sixty thousand dollars on some kind of re-do before they'd buy a decent moisture meter. Or they'd install a gorgeous million dollar deck of tropical hardwood and the finish would fail because they didn't properly prepare the surface before finishing. I've seen bankruptcies and divorces due to a gallon of cheap varnish atop incredibly fabricated custom doors and windows, some solid ebony wood.

Yes, climate is definitely an issue for some. I get you. A few on the woodworking forum I frequent use a box with a low-wattage lamp to slow dry. Faster than air, slower than kiln. But those take up space.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Camera components obviously need very good dimensional stability. We sold hardwoods to builders and cabinet shops where I worked before retirement, but things getting nailed or glued down is a different story. In big industrial quantities like we had, one end of a cut might dry differently from the other end or the middle, so in critical applications, both a pin as well as scanning moisture meter would be involved. For my personal moulding stock I use long troughs of vinyl gutter nested atop shop rafters. True pattern grade mahogany is no longer even cut apparently; and that on my Ebony camera was cured over 20 yrs before fabrication. Here on the West Coast, black walnut is an option, but there are different ways of drying it. Cherry and alder are also common and machine similarly, but differ in color. I frequently work with maple, but it's heavy, and like cherry, one has to be careful not to get burn marks from the carbide.

 

[CollinB]

Camera components obviously need very good dimensional stability. We sold hardwoods to builders and cabinet shops where I worked before retirement, but things getting nailed or glued down is a different story. In big industrial quantities like we had, one end of a cut might dry differently from the other end or the middle, so in critical applications, both a pin as well as scanning moisture meter would be involved. For my personal moulding stock I use long troughs of vinyl gutter nested atop shop rafters. True pattern grade mahogany is no longer even cut apparently; and that on my Ebony camera was cured over 20 yrs before fabrication. Here on the West Coast, black walnut is an option, but there are different ways of drying it. Cherry and alder are also common and machine similarly, but differ in color. I frequently work with maple, but it's heavy, and like cherry, one has to be careful not to get burn marks from the carbide.

Good thoughts. Thanks.
(I always cut cherry +1/16 or thereabouts so as to plane/face joint/sand off the burn.)

 

[DREW WILEY]

A power feeder helps on a jointer or shaper (saves fingers too). But I'm now all "Euroshop" minimal dust Festool, where everything stores away easily yet offers high precision. I jerry-rig a lot of it too, even better than their own mounting stations. I work with hard phenolic as well as wood products and metals for a range of darkroom applications. Sometimes will do a woodworking project for others if it doesn't take too long and pays well. But not much lately. I retired for a reason. And currently I'm still on a drymounting marathon.