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8x10 B&W Film Processing.

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Tom Kershaw said:
I've just been looking at your website, is the photography all film based?

Tom.
Click to expand...

At the left bottom in the site beneath the square thumbnails of the photos there's a piece of text which shows when made on film what film was used and if not on film it says "@reflex numerique" (which is digital).
All my new work is on film and my older work on there contains digital too.
grz
Indra
 
Tom Kershaw said:
I use a Thermaphot processor but some on APUG have done RA-4 at room temperature in trays.

Tom.
Click to expand...
Wow trays. Never done it that way. At school we had this colour paper processing unit which we used and that made it fairly hassle free.
I don't shoot much on colour though (hardly any) and when I will in the future I probably will be using slide.
You work a lot with colour?

Edit: Wow you have some marvelous stuff on your website!!
 
Just another question....if I would buy a Jobo 3005 drum I would be able to use it manually without spilling too much chemicals right? On their site it says it's possible to hand-process and you wouldn't need like 3 liters to fill up the entire tank to do so..right?
Sorry to ask, I have never seen one so don't know how big they actually are and the developing in total darkness with the help of trays does freak me out a little.
 
A 3005 drum on Jobo's rollers (you could even make something similar, very easily) is easy to handle manually. And you won't need to fill it up completely. Just the same amount as if you were using a Jobo processor. Though I usually use just a little more.
 
jfish said:
Tray, 12 sheets at a time.
Click to expand...

Not bad, but I won't even bother tray processing unless I have 40 sheets in a batch. Just kidding.

I am just starting with 8x10 and have not yet developed a sheet of film. I have some 8x10 BTZS tubes to work with and a Jobo 3005 film drum as well as a tray. I use BTZS tubes for 4x5 so I think I will start there.
 
Terence said:
A 3005 drum on Jobo's rollers (you could even make something similar, very easily) is easy to handle manually. And you won't need to fill it up completely. Just the same amount as if you were using a Jobo processor. Though I usually use just a little more.
Click to expand...
Thanx for the help!
Luckily I just ran into this on the wonderful net and immediately called the person to buy it from him so if all goes well I end up with this Durst Comot Drum Processor + 2 Drums :

durst.jpg


All issues will be covered then :wink:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ok I see a lot of people use jobo drum's to process sheet film. I want to start shooting 5x7 and I have the jobo drums in the series 4205. Would those also be ok to use for film processing? Isn't difficult for the developer to get between the sheet of film and the drum itself?
 
Contrastique said:
I noticed fewer diversity in developers used by people here in this thread...might be a coincidence but I assume I can still use my HC110 which I use all the time now with good, stable results..?
Click to expand...

I use HC110 with an Expert Drum for 8x10 and 5x7. The only thing you have to watch for with HC-110 is the amount of developer per sheet. I mix directly from syrup and Kodak recommends 12ml of syrup per sheet of 8x10. If you use very high dilutions (e.g., dilution F), you can't just go with the minimum volume, and if you are doing multiple sheets, you will have a LOT of developer in that drum. Five sheets of 8x10 in 1:79 with 12ml per sheet will give you 4.8 litres. This is a lot to hand-roll on that flimsy little Jobo roller base and on a Jobo processor, you will burn out the motor.
 
Peter de Groot said:
Ok I see a lot of people use jobo drum's to process sheet film. I want to start shooting 5x7 and I have the jobo drums in the series 4205. Would those also be ok to use for film processing? Isn't difficult for the developer to get between the sheet of film and the drum itself?
Click to expand...

4205 looks like an older one. You may have to experiment. My tests in the 2800 drums, with identical processing, showed that some film bases are not cleared (FP4+) where as others (ei Arista EDU sheet film) come out perfect, even with in-drum washing.
 
Well I have tried but in the drums they didn't clear completely. So no drums for me. I used rodinal in a 1:26 solution and the film is fomapan 100. I tried developping in a tray as well and that went ok. However I have a sneaking suspicion that tank development will be the thing for me. But at least I tried and now I know.
Although there is one experiment left for me. In one drum I have a plastic sheet that can hold paper. I might try that one with film as wel to see if the developper will reach everything ok then.
 
Trays for one at a time - and deep tanks for many at a time.
 
Peter de Groot said:
Well I have tried but in the drums they didn't clear completely. So no drums for me. I used rodinal in a 1:26 solution and the film is fomapan 100. I tried developping in a tray as well and that went ok. However I have a sneaking suspicion that tank development will be the thing for me. But at least I tried and now I know.
Although there is one experiment left for me. In one drum I have a plastic sheet that can hold paper. I might try that one with film as wel to see if the developper will reach everything ok then.
Click to expand...

Daylight development is what makes the drum nice. You can still do it all in daylight if you just fix and wash in trays. I'm thinking a tray fix and wash will clear the film base (assuming you got good even development in the tank).
 
Peter de Groot said:
Just to see if I have understood it ok: Develop in drum and stop in drum and fixing and washing in trays? I might give it a try. I'll let you know what the results are. Thanks for the feedback.
Click to expand...

I'd probably start fixing in the drum then finish fixing in the tray. Goal would be to make sure the emulsion is light stable with some drum fixing, then clear the film in the tray fixer.

Other things I have thought of but not tried are loading the tank with water in it. Then you are assured the back side of the film is getting wet. This may promote clearing the back of the film while in the drum.
 
How big a deal is it to fix in the drum, then place it for a minute or two in a tray to clear the anti halation layer? Or place a sheet of nylon window screen on the back side of the film to allow developer/stop/fix, etc to reach the backside. Drum processing rocks especially with PyroCat-HD.

tim in san jose
 
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