6x7 Acros 100 @50 with HC-110 - Stand Development Recipe recommendation

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
198,709
Messages
2,779,621
Members
99,683
Latest member
raknet
Recent bookmarks
0

mindthemix

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2012
Messages
178
Location
Miami
Format
Multi Format
Hi,

This is my first roll with the Pentax 67II and I'd like to try stand development with my actual developer HC-110.

I'm ok with dilution B, H and E but never tried stand development.

Any advice/recipe to get the best out of Acros will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
 
Last edited by a moderator:

John Wiegerink

Subscriber
Joined
May 29, 2009
Messages
3,630
Location
Lake Station, MI
Format
Multi Format
I really don't use HC110 anymore, but that's just me. I don't know why you want to stand-develop with your first roll? I would think dil. B, which is all I ever used, or maybe something like dil. F. since I hear of many using that, would be best to start with. That way you will have a bench mark to go by when you do try stand-developing. I have only used Rodinal for stand-developing Acros and it worked just fine. The best negatives I have had from Acros were of a black steam locomotive shot with my Rollei and developed in Perceptol 1+3. Remember your 6x7 negative is really the next best thing to 4x5 and grain won't/or shouldn't be an issue. I have two older Pentax 6x7's and want to be buried with them. Great cameras and great optics. JohnW
 
Joined
Jan 21, 2003
Messages
15,708
Location
Switzerland
Format
Multi Format
Hi,

This is my first roll with the Pentax 67II and I'd like to try stand development with my actual developer HC-110.

I'm ok with dilution B, H and E but never tried stand development.

Any advice/recipe to get the best put of Acros will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Changing too many things at once is a recipe for disaster.

If you normally use Acros, develop it like you normally do in HC-110. Once you have established that the camera works well, and your film comes out as expected with prints that look the way you want them to look - then you can start experimenting.
 
OP
OP
mindthemix

mindthemix

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2012
Messages
178
Location
Miami
Format
Multi Format
I really don't use HC110 anymore, but that's just me. I don't know why you want to stand-develop with your first roll? I would think dil. B, which is all I ever used, or maybe something like dil. F. since I hear of many using that, would be best to start with. That way you will have a bench mark to go by when you do try stand-developing. I have only used Rodinal for stand-developing Acros and it worked just fine. The best negatives I have had from Acros were of a black steam locomotive shot with my Rollei and developed in Perceptol 1+3. Remember your 6x7 negative is really the next best thing to 4x5 and grain won't/or shouldn't be an issue. I have two older Pentax 6x7's and want to be buried with them. Great cameras and great optics. JohnW

Hi John,

Thanks for your prompt feedback. This is my first roll with Acros @50 and I'm curious to try stand development based on some recipes from other users. I have great results with Tri-x and HP5 in HC-110 but never tried it with Acros.
 
OP
OP
mindthemix

mindthemix

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2012
Messages
178
Location
Miami
Format
Multi Format
Changing too many things at once is a recipe for disaster.

If you normally use Acros, develop it like you normally do in HC-110. Once you have established that the camera works well, and your film comes out as expected with prints that look the way you want them to look - then you can start experimenting.

Thanks for the feedback Thomas and the down to earth advice!
 

John Wiegerink

Subscriber
Joined
May 29, 2009
Messages
3,630
Location
Lake Station, MI
Format
Multi Format
I get very good results stand developing Acros in Rodinal

Rodinal for Acros stand would be my first pick too, but then I've never used HC-110 for stand developing and he might be on to something. Still, I can't see how it could be better than Rodinal 1:100, but I have been wrong many times before. Just ask my wife!
 

Brian Legge

Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2010
Messages
544
Location
Bothell, WA
Format
35mm RF
Acros at ei 50 looks great in Rodinal 1:50 for normal times. I haven't tried stand development with it. I gave up on stand development quickly after a few rolls with banding and streaking. Others have success with it but I haven't missed it at all.
 

erikg

Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2003
Messages
1,444
Location
pawtucket rh
Format
Multi Format
I'm no big fan of stand but there's only one way to find out if it's for you so here is what I would do. Stand needs a dilute developer and a large volume. You could use HC-110 at 1:50, 1:75, 1:100. I would use 1:100 and make sure I had 10ml per roll. I would drop the reel into the tank in the dark and then agitate for 1 minute. Then I would let it sit for the next 59. If there is unevenness I would try an inversion at the 30 minute mark the next time out. If the contrast was too high I would cut the dilution further.
HC-110 would be a good choice for this, it is very consistent at many dilutions. In the 80's RIT students did a paper on using HC-110 very dilute and developing film to completion for extreme compressions Their development times were measured in hours. Interesting results. Some people get hung up on the Kodak dilution letter scheme, but it's not necessary, just dilute from the syrup in a way that is easy to do and remember. You are creating your own system here, being consistent is the important thing.
It's always good to compare so I would actually do two rolls, one stand and one with a standard agitation scheme. Same or very similar subjects. I did this enough to satisfy myself that I don't like what stand does in most cases and now I don't use it. But now I know.
 
Joined
Jan 21, 2003
Messages
15,708
Location
Switzerland
Format
Multi Format
erikg - that's a very good approach. It is good to compare and lend a critical eye to the results to see if it's worthwhile.

In my experience I have found that standing development will sometimes save me when I accidentally expose a roll of FP4+ thinking that it was Tri-X. But I find that for most normal situations regular agitation is better, unless the light is extremely high contrast, involving light bulbs and deep shadows in the same scene. The extreme compensation that occurs in the highlights is one thing, but it can also expand tones in the mid-range and build tones in the low midrange and into the shadows that seem very strange in a print.

Remember that agitation is a tool that affects tonality. Sometimes not in a good way. When you slow down agitation you change how the highlights and the shadows appear, but mid-tones stay similar (say from agitating every minute to every 5 minutes). Shadows get a bump because you need to develop longer to get the same contrast, and the highlights are toned down about the same amount. This works really well with Xtol developer, Rodinal, DD-X, Sprint, and Edwal 12. I have not tried HC-110.

But the question we have to ask ourselves is: What is it that we wish to achieve by choosing certain techniques? If we don't ask that question first, then it becomes difficult to justify one technique over the other. The outcome has to be a negative that prints to our liking, right?

So, I use standing development (or minimal agitation, actually - I agitate every 5 minutes) only as a last resort to save my butt.
 

McErland

Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2013
Messages
26
Location
Sweden
Format
35mm
I only use stand or semi-stand, just for convenience since I got a two month old baby.. :smile:
However, I am more than pleased with my results!

I use Ilford Ilfotec HC diluted 1:100 and let it stay for about 40-50 minutes depending what I've shot. From what I've read HC-110 is pretty much the same, so I guess it would give you some pleasing results. A guy on flickr use HC-110 regularly when he stand-develop, and I always liked his images.
 

Brian Legge

Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2010
Messages
544
Location
Bothell, WA
Format
35mm RF
Oh, I did have banding free results with once. Basically I put an empty reel at the bottom of the tank and a loaded reel on top of it. Evidently most of the unevenness I was getting happened at the very bottom with the rest of the dilution a bit more even. I'd previously tried inversion at the 30 minute mark but that wasn't sufficient. I needed to invert closer to 5-10 minute apart to get evenness throughout at which point I couldn't really call it stand development. :wink:
 

Ghostman

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Messages
504
Location
Switzerland
Format
Multi Format
This is Fuji Acros 100 @ 100, Rodinal 1:50 @20° 11 minutes

8577590048_112370b09a_c.jpg
 
Joined
Jan 21, 2003
Messages
15,708
Location
Switzerland
Format
Multi Format
This is Fuji Acros 100 @ 100, Rodinal 1:50 @20° 11 minutes

View attachment 74212

And had you used standing development you could expect the following:

1. More shadow detail.
2. Potential detail in the sky portion. (The complete lack of tone here is very effective, so I'm not saying standing development would be better)
3. Potential for unevenly developed negative.
4. Potential edge effects that might make the texture of the photograph more prominent.
 

Ghostman

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Messages
504
Location
Switzerland
Format
Multi Format
This is also rodinal 1:50 @ 20 degrees for 11 minutes.

8689190978_6d65fdef72_z.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 8689190978_6d65fdef72.jpg
    8689190978_6d65fdef72.jpg
    173.8 KB · Views: 117

Gerald C Koch

Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
8,131
Location
Southern USA
Format
Multi Format
Any advice/recipe to get the best out of Acros will be great.

Yes, don't use stand development. Use HC-110 as Kodak recommends for best results.
 
OP
OP
mindthemix

mindthemix

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2012
Messages
178
Location
Miami
Format
Multi Format
Finally my keepers

Thank you guys for all your feedback and finally I decided to develop my first Acros roll in a more conservative way.

Acros 100 EI 50
Developer: Kodak HC-110 (@71F) Dil H 1:63
Fixer: TF-4 / Stop Bath: Water
Presoak: 1 minute
Development: 8 minutes (30 seconds agitation / 2 inversions every 1.5 minutes)
Stop Bath: 1 minute (continuous agitation)
Fix: 6 minutes (2 inversions once a minute)
Final wash: 5 minutes
Soak in PhotoFlo: 1 minute
Epson V600 (all options unmarked)

Do you recommend more inversions for additional contrast or keep the 1 minute mark?

Now my keepers

Right OOC with minor level adjustment on black

Pentax 67II - Acros 100 (1).jpg

Pentax 67II - Acros 100.jpg

Pentax 67II - Acros 100 (3).jpg

Pentax 67II - Acros 100 (2).jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

John Wiegerink

Subscriber
Joined
May 29, 2009
Messages
3,630
Location
Lake Station, MI
Format
Multi Format
They look very, very good! I haven't found any developers that I have on hand that Acros doesn't do good in, but HC110 is a developer that I haven't tried with Acros. I'd say it looks like you have a winning combo there. Now you can try HC110 and stand-develop Acros since you now have a "gold standard" to go by. I really don't see how you could do much better, but maybe you can. JohnW
 
Joined
Jan 21, 2003
Messages
15,708
Location
Switzerland
Format
Multi Format
I can't tell based on neg scans on an electronic monitor whether you need to adjust development or not.

The more important question is - are you happy with the results? I think your pictures look pretty good from here.

If you're not happy, let me know what you don't like and I might be able to help.

Good going!
 

John Wiegerink

Subscriber
Joined
May 29, 2009
Messages
3,630
Location
Lake Station, MI
Format
Multi Format
Thomas is right and I just went by what you said in your Post referring to "minor" level adjustments. I'm thinking "minor" meaning that using VC paper you would have no problem coping with contrast. On the other hand if your "minor" is my "major" then you might have to adjust time/agitation, but I like what I see in your post. JohnW
 
OP
OP
mindthemix

mindthemix

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2012
Messages
178
Location
Miami
Format
Multi Format
I can't tell based on neg scans on an electronic monitor whether you need to adjust development or not.

The more important question is - are you happy with the results? I think your pictures look pretty good from here.

If you're not happy, let me know what you don't like and I might be able to help.

Good going!

Thank you Thomas and I'm happy with the results to be honest.
 
OP
OP
mindthemix

mindthemix

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2012
Messages
178
Location
Miami
Format
Multi Format
They look very, very good! I haven't found any developers that I have on hand that Acros doesn't do good in, but HC110 is a developer that I haven't tried with Acros. I'd say it looks like you have a winning combo there. Now you can try HC110 and stand-develop Acros since you now have a "gold standard" to go by. I really don't see how you could do much better, but maybe you can. JohnW

Thank you John for your kind feedback. I have "some" experience with HC-110 on HP5 and Tmax but Acros was my first try. I'm extremely happy with the results and I'd love to try more with this film. Tomorrow I have a classic car event in my town so I'll be shooting more Acros. Stand-develop is my next try but I'll try to keep this combo as standard by now. Thanks again for your post.
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom