Basic camera electronics are far easier than some mechanical things you already do.
I mean, how hard is to use a multitester to check for good continuity, and to use a solder to repair cold solder joints. And to use some sandpaper and/or metal polish to restore contact conductivity? Re-aligning a leaf switch that is out of alignment is a mechanical task, yet affects electronics a lot: For example an electronically-timed SLR like the pentax ME or Nikon EL can go completely wrong if the mirror switch or "memory lock" switch doesn't give proper electrical contact or is misaligned. Dumb repairman will say "the CPU is fried", clever repairman cleans the contacts and realigns the switch.
It isn't hard.
Yet those silly problems (bad conductors, misaligned switches), that are easy to repair, are what make electronic cameras fail. Easy to repair stuff!
Further, if your continuity tester runs, for instance, on two AA cells, it might destroy components in a circuit designed to run on a single mercury or silver oxide cell. Multimeters are less prone to that (current is extremely limited), but unless you know what value to expect, it's just "connected or not connected -- I think.".
But unless I can see a cold solder joint with my eye, I'll never detect it with test tools -- especially not without a circuit diagram keyed to the actual board layout. And that's one of the main reasons I don't like electronics -- I can't see the "moving parts".
I've also got experience with flex boards coming loose from end connections and no way to reconnect them, just because I moved the board (lost a calculator I was fond of that way), components with solder leads so fragile (or electronically so sensitive) that merely touching them destroys the circuit from the voltage carried on a fingertip. I'm also much more reluctant to open unfamiliar devices than I was forty-some years ago, because I have much more experience with stuff that can't be fixed, but can be completely destroyed by trying...
I would like to know, however, why this thread has become "try to convince Donald to buy an electronic camera." Most of those aren't affordable, even if I wanted one..
Maybe I should just get the left handle for my RB67 and see how that works for hand held shooting -- and spend some time with the weights building up my shoulders and biceps.
Combine that with a shorter than average neckstrap - it works really well.Maybe I should just get the left handle for my RB67 and see how that works for hand held shooting
The original Bronica ETR can be had for cheap and it's a great machine. Mamiya M645 machines are cheap. And when they have problems, they have M E C H A N I C A L problems, the ones Donald can fix just fine.
Not convinced yet? How about those wonderful Mamiya 645 lenses that are small and can be had for really cheap?
I use my RB67 always handheld without handle grips -- you need to experiment until you cradle the thing comfortably. I felt easier to use with the waist level finder, than using my former Pentax 67 using the prism.
I'm assuming your RB67 is using the waist level finder, because the prisms are far too heavy -- better used on a tripod.
Okay, I'll bite. What's a Mamiya 645 with a lens in the 60-80 mm range, film magazine, and prism run these days? I understood they cost a good bit more than an RB67.
The problem I have with hand held shooting is related to my vision. If I have my distance glasses on, I have to use the magnifier to see the ground glass well enough to focus accurately, and holding the camera that high makes my arms shake from the weight.
Does make me wonder, though -- big old waist level finder, why doesn't it have a sports finder window like the waist level finders on almost every TLR ever built?
I mean the M645. They are always cheaper than RB67 machines. At least around my city.
You must be thinking about the more modern mamiyas.
Everyone wants me to shoot 6x6. I've got all the 6x6 cameras I need for now.
I would like to know, however, why this thread has become "try to convince Donald to buy an electronic camera."
but I'd really like an affordable, non-battery-dependent 6x4.5 SLR --
what you are specifically wanting was never manufactured.
It'll be several months before I make the final choice, so for now, "none". I can get a 50mm and 65mm for use with the 6x4.5 back on my RB67 for substantially less than either an M645 with a couple lenses or a (much more electronic) Pentax 645
Aha! Apparently, KW in Germany in the 1930's made some 6x6 SLR's that came with 4.5x6 masks, specifically the Pilot 6 and Super Pilot.
Besides being 80-90 years old, those have the same issue as a Bronica or Hasselblad: not really made to turn on their side. Not even sure they had changeable lenses. They looked a bit like a Great Wall.
Sure are a lot of unreliable cameras from the 1920s, 1930s, 1940s, before any of them had electronics, that still work. Just like a mechanical watch -- if it's been treated right, there's no reason it can't work for many decades.
I was just attempting a joke....
A 645 can be light enough to carry around, but still has a bit more than twice a 35mm frame, yet gets 16 on a roll. Not so many I feel the need to load shorter rolls, not so few I have to reload before I've exhausted a subject. It's the Goldilocks format, for me, for now.
I know you said you want an SLR, but those mechanical fuji rangefinders are sweet. I have the 60mm lens and 45mm lens versions and they produce fantastic images.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?