620 film

rberry65 · May 11, 2010

Will 120 film work in a camera that uses 620 film? I have an Argus 75 my mom gave me that I want to try out. I'm sure its probly a piece of junk, but sometimes older cameras have flaws that work out for the better. For instance, I have a Bolsey B2 that has a little mold on the lens and images from it are rather unique. They look old and very ghostly.

MattKing · May 11, 2010

120 film itself is the same size as 620.

Unfortunately, a 120 spool is different from a 620 spool - so unless you transfer the film and backing paper to a 620 spool, and have a 620 spool available to takeup the exposed film, you may not be able to use the 120 film.

There are cameras that you can put a 120 roll and spool into the feed side, as long as there is a 620 spool on the takeup side.

There are also technicians who can modify some 620 cameras in order to permit use of 120 spools (Kodak Medalist's are a good example).

rjbuzzclick · May 11, 2010

I have an Argus 40 (among other 620 cameras) and I just take a file to the plastic 120 spool that the film is on. You only need to take about 2mm off of the diameter and 1mm off of the length to get it to fit. MattKing is correct, you will need a 620 spool for the take up side, as the slot size is different. You can also re-roll, I used to, but found that filing a spool was easier for me. YMMV.

Trask · May 12, 2010

I remove the film from the 120 spool and rewind it onto a 620 spool. Google and you'll find several sites that offer instructions. It's not hard; the only real trick is that because of the smaller core diameter on the 620 spool, the film/paper interface will develop a "bump" at the point where the film is attached to the paper. I just gently unstick the tape, smooth out the "bump" and retape the film. Has always worked fine for me.

R gould · May 12, 2010

!20 film will certainly work in a 620, however, you must Either re-spool it from the 120 reel to a 620 reel,If you have one, or file down a 120 reel to fit,Richard

steven_e007 · May 12, 2010

Just be careful if you re-spool - make sure you do it in a dust free place - vacuum clean your changing bag (if you use one) and trim your fingernails! I've re-spooled quite a few 120 roll films onto 620 spools and quite often manage to get dust or scratches onto the film...

There will probably be one old spool in the camera but not two. You can buy odd spools on ebeegeebay - but they usually want silly money. You can make spools yourself. I've made them from both wooden dowel and brass tube (from model suppliers). You fix disks on the end cut from plastic or metal sheet... or visit a junk sale and look for a really beaten up kodak 620 going very cheap...

Rick A · May 12, 2010

Before you respool, check to see if the 120 roll will fit in the camera. Some 620's have enough room for the larger diameter 120 spools, the only problem may occur with the winder, which has a smaller drive tab that could slip in a 120 spool. Place the unopened roll in the camera, testing both locations for fit. The roll should not bind up if it fits. If its too tight, respool. Some folks have been able to modify the inside of cameras just enough to fit 120's in without any problem. I respool for a couple of 620's, a Brownie and a Duaflex II, they are a 'hoot ta shoot'.

rberry65 · May 12, 2010

Lots of helpful info. Thanks.

Terry Breedlove · May 12, 2010

I just bought a roll of 620 Tmax $11 from B&H mostly for the spool and a 5 pack of Tmax 120 to re-spool for shooting in a Kodak Brownie.

Mike Wilde · May 12, 2010

I find that the 120 spool can be attacked with toe nail clippers to take the little 'ridge' off the side of the spool flanges to make it fit 620 cameras.

I have done this by feel in the dark with the film still on the spool, and then load it into the camera, also in the dark. Wind partially, then flick on the safelight to advance it to the arrows, then close the back, unless it is a ruby window one, where just close the back, and wind until you get to '1'.

I have also made the skinny 120 spool work in the 620 side of some cameras by squirting a quick spray of baking release oil (cover all areas you don't want it to hit) to let the glue release from the winding mechanism and lower spring holder.

I then gue tooth picks/wood slivers into the ends of the spool, fill the thing with hot glues, and then stick it into the camera take up holders while the gluie is still hot

rberry65 · May 12, 2010

Well, I trimed the 120 down with an exacto knife, fits great. Now I have another delima, and dont laugh, lol, I'm not shure how to tell if I am advancing the frames corectly. Experiment and learn, that's all I can say.

Rick A · May 12, 2010

You can tell if the exposure number shows in the red window on the back of the camera. When the #1 appears, you are ready to shoot. When you advance the film, remember to watch the red window every time. The backing paper has the numberd printed on it, and thats how you know.

rberry65 · May 12, 2010

Yeah, I figured it out. Wasn't to hard, lol. I'm not fimilar with older cameras like this, but love to expirment with them. I went out and took some random pictures just to see how they look. I didn't like the fact that you can not adjust the exposure, or focus. It is just a point and shoot. Next to figure out is my Graflex Crown Graphic. Hummmmm............

Rick A · May 12, 2010

I have a Duaflex II that has a basic four zone focus and a whopping 3 f-stop range.

rberry65 · May 12, 2010

I never understood the zone system. 3 f-stops, wow! Well, it's more than that Argus of mine has. So far on the Graflex..... I figured out how to open it and work the shutter, lol. Guess I need to search out a manual online.

rberry65 · May 12, 2010

Unfortunatly, the Argus 75 is no good. It left a huge scratch on thi film from one end to the other.

Rick A · May 12, 2010

Open it back up and find the offending part and clean it. There should not be anything really bad, maybe just a little dirt on a roller. Sorry I cant nelp with the Graflex. If you have the model number you might be able to find some instructions at Butkus.com.

rberry65 · May 13, 2010

Ok I'll try that.

Rolleiflexible · May 13, 2010

I have one of these cameras. A word of
caution: Cover the red window with a square
of gaffers tape and lift it up to advance the
film. Otherwise sunlight through the window
will penetrate the film back and imprint the
frame number on your image.

Rick A · May 13, 2010

Rolleiflexible said:
I have one of these cameras. A word of
caution: Cover the red window with a square
of gaffers tape and lift it up to advance the
film. Otherwise sunlight through the window
will penetrate the film back and imprint the
frame number on your image.

I've enever had that problem with any of my red porthole counters.

Brian Legge · May 13, 2010

I don't know if it was the difference between b&w film vs color or just the intensity of the light, but I had some red leaks when shooting color film on a very bright day with a Wirgin Auta. I kept the windows open for the minimal amount of time (ie wound twice, opened the window only long enough to insure I positioned it correctly on the third winding rotation). I also had my back to the sun to minimize direct light.

Come to think of it, most of the shots on that roll were fine. It was only the shots taken in an extremely bright (~EV 16) day that had issues. The shots in a 6-12 range didn't have problems.

Rolleiflexible · May 13, 2010

I don't know about your red porthole cameras,
Rick, but I can say from experience that if you
load an Argus 75 with Tri-X and go out and
shoot in open shade outdoors on a sunny spring
day (around the Central Park Reservoir, in my
case), and you leave the hole uncovered, each
of your negatives will have a round circle in the
middle of the frame, with the frame number imprinted
in the middle.

Rick A · May 14, 2010

Rolleiflexible said:
I don't know about your red porthole cameras,
Rick, but I can say from experience that if you
load an Argus 75 with Tri-X and go out and
shoot in open shade outdoors on a sunny spring
day (around the Central Park Reservoir, in my
case), and you leave the hole uncovered, each
of your negatives will have a round circle in the
middle of the frame, with the frame number imprinted
in the middle.

It may be that the plastic on your Argus has fadedover the years. Its just that I haven't had that happen with any of my cameras(yet). I will say that its hard to see the numbers on my Duaflex, the plastic is thick and the numbers are barely perceptable throught it. My brownie is a tad easier to read, tho I dont use it much. It may be a factor of how I carry them, most of the time they ride in my gear bag until wanted, shot taken then put away. Occasionally my Duaflex is all I carry, hanging around my neck for the day. Maybe you can recoat the window on yours with some red dye or ink. Maybe tape some red cello over the window.

Andy38 · May 14, 2010

I use some cameras with this red window, Rolleiflex (Original and Standard), Ikonta's and Super Ikonta's C (6X9cm), in 100 and 400 ISO B&W : no problem until today; and I often forget to take care with that...
As Rick writes, it may be some plastic fades.

Pompiere · May 15, 2010

When these cameras were new, ASA 64 was considered fast film, so the light penetrating the red window wasn't as much of an issue as it is with ASA 400. A lot of later cameras have a metal cover that slides over the red window. Just to be sure, I would keep the window covered, except when winding.

620 film

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