620 film options?

[Greg_E2]

I have an old Rollie that takes 620 film (not sure if a cord or flex), aside from $20+ each rolls of film, are there any easy options? I think I only have a single 620 metal spool.

That said, not even sure this camera still works, need to get it out and test it. I know it needs new leather, time was not kind to that part.

 

[John Wiegerink]

I have an old Rollie that takes 620 film (not sure if a cord or flex), aside from $20+ each rolls of film, are there any easy options? I think I only have a single 620 metal spool.

That said, not even sure this camera still works, need to get it out and test it. I know it needs new leather, time was not kind to that part.

Just get yourself some 620 spools and re-roll your 120 film onto a 620 spool. I do it all the time and when you get the hang of it it goes pretty fast and it's much, much cheaper than buying ready made stuff. Plus, you can pick any 120 you want for re-spooling onto 620 spools. Now the question is this, is your Rollei camera really a 620 only camera/

 

[BAC1967]

Are you sure that's not a Rolleiflex 620 model? It takes 120 film, 620 is coincidentally the model number.

 

[Greg_E2]

Are you sure that's not a Rolleiflex 620 model? It takes 120 film, 620 is coincidentally the model number.

Definitely smaller diameter metal spools, a 120 will not fit in the holder, tried it and even cut down 120 didn't really fit.

I'll have to pull it out of storage and take some photos, or maybe find an old thread here from the APUG days which might have pictures. I think I traced the serial number and markings back to pre war times, but might be wrong here.

 

[Greg_E2]

Found the thread, but the pictures are long gone https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/old-original-rolleiflex-repair-in-the-usa.52972/

 

[John Wiegerink]

Found the thread, but the pictures are long gone https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/old-original-rolleiflex-repair-in-the-usa.52972/

That's interesting and I learned something new. They say you're never to old to learn. I had a similar problem with film size when I kept trying to run 120 film through a little ICA Icarette camera. I could fit 120 film in the camera and get it closed, but when it came to winding the film it was nearly impossible. Then the nice folks here explained that that camera was made for I believe 117 film. I never tried 620 spools in it, but do believe they would have worked. I do use a couple of 620 cameras often ( Kodak Medalist and Kodak Monitor) and just re-spool 120 onto 620 spools. Works like a charm!

 

[retina_restoration]

There's no need to pay $20 a roll for 620 film — just buy whatever film you want and re-roll it onto 620 spools. You can buy 620 spools off fleabay. It takes only a few minutes to respool 120 onto 620.

 

[JPD]

You probably have an Original Rolleiflex for 117-film. The 117-spool has a spool diameter like the 120 but flanges like the 620.

You can re-roll 120-film onto a 620 spool and use an empty 117-spool for take-up. You would have to unload the film in a darkroom since the flanges won't cover the last couple of frames.

A few Original Rolleiflex-cameras were modified to take 620-film, though.

 

[bclift]

Respooling is definitely the cheapest way to go. etone sells Shanghia film in 127 and 620 but it's not cheap. FPP sells a variety of 620 starting at $13.99usd as well as spools for $4.99 each usd.

 

[MCB18]

Buy a few old metal 620 spools and just use them when you need them often times you can find them on eBay for a few dollars a spool. Possibly more expensive than FPP, but it is worth noting that the FPP ones are plastic and do not always work in cameras where they used super tight tolerances for the film chamber.

eTone also sells metal spools for cheaper than FPP does if you buy more than 4, but idk if they are any good, and they ship from China.

Either way, if you have a nice 620 camera it’s well worth the investment to get actual nice spools and learn how to roll it yourself. Like several folks here have mentioned, rolling it from 120 isn’t so hard once you have done it once or twice.

 

[250swb]

I avoid the risk of fat rolls in re-rolling 120 film onto 620 spools by snipping off the overhanging edges of the 120 film and grinding down each end of the plastic 120 spool until it fits into the camera. Sure, wind it onto a 620 spool.

 

[MattKing]

But a few old metal 620 spools and just use them when unwed them. Like several folks here have mentioned, rerolling isn’t so hard.

@MCB18 - Auto-correct turned on high?

 

[MCB18]

I do not know what Apple did, but at some point in the last year or so they changed something with the keyboard and auto correct that royally fucked with the way that I type. Y/T, O/I, N/B, and a few others all seem to have gotten much harder to type accurately.

 

[MCB18]

I avoid the risk of fat rolls in re-rolling 120 film onto 620 spools by snipping off the overhanging edges of the 120 film and grinding down each end of the plastic 120 spool until it fits into the camera. Sure, wind it onto a 620 spool.

This will work, but not on all cameras, and often times it will get plastic dust/shards everywhere and could lead to film scratches. Best to just roll it onto an actual 620 spool. If you practice it once or twice the risk of a fat roll is no more likely than with 120. m

I have hand rolled hundreds of 120 rolls, which is much harder than rolling 620 from 120, and I think I have gotten a fat roll maybe one time in almost 4 years. Meanwhile I have friends that shoot LOMO film that it seems to happen with every other roll…

 

[Paul Howell]

I respool 120 on to 620 to use with my Kodak Tourist, it a bit of a pain, I usually respool a couple of rolls at a time.

 

[Greg_E2]

I'll have to dig that camera out and see if you can help me determine what it is.

 

[JensH]

I avoid the risk of fat rolls in re-rolling 120 film onto 620 spools by snipping off the overhanging edges of the 120 film and grinding down each end of the plastic 120 spool until it fits into the camera. Sure, wind it onto a 620 spool.

+1
That's how I do it with my Rolleiflex Originals. Works fine.

 

[JensH]

I have an old Rollie that takes 620 film (not sure if a cord or flex), aside from $20+ each rolls of film, are there any easy options? I think I only have a single 620 metal spool.

That said, not even sure this camera still works, need to get it out and test it. I know it needs new leather, time was not kind to that part.

May we see a photo?

Best
Jens

 

[John Wiegerink]

+1
That's how I do it with my Rolleiflex Originals. Works fine.

Yes, I think that's the key when doing it with trim spool, "use a 620 take-up spool. That said, I gave up doing that simply because it was messy, had a few edge light leaks and I can actually re-spool faster.

 

[JensH]

Yes, I think that's the key when doing it with trim spool, "use a 620 take-up spool. That said, I gave up doing that simply because it was messy, had a few edge light leaks and I can actually re-spool faster.

Edge light leaks can happen, usually outside the image area.
Anyway it is best is to trim and load the film in low light...

 

[Greg_E2]

OK, here are some photos, it's rougher than I remembered. The shutter is extremely hard to turn, and running very slow (3 to 4 seconds on 1 second setting).








This might be a lost cause for me. I did find a cut down 120 spool inside, but it looks like I also had to sand the ends thinner to make it work, need to explore this more if I'm going to try and use this again. The lenses are fogged on the inside. The mirror is completely wrecked. Ground glass is dirty and dark. The finder is bent and slightly broken

But the bubble level in the ground glass still works fine.

 

[blee1996]

Might be a fun weekend project to restore that old friend... I guess these original Rolleiflex are simpler constructions.

 

[John Wiegerink]

OK, here are some photos, it's rougher than I remembered. The shutter is extremely hard to turn, and running very slow (3 to 4 seconds on 1 second setting).

View attachment 409168

View attachment 409169
View attachment 409171
View attachment 409172
View attachment 409173

This might be a lost cause for me. I did find a cut down 120 spool inside, but it looks like I also had to sand the ends thinner to make it work, need to explore this more if I'm going to try and use this again. The lenses are fogged on the inside. The mirror is completely wrecked. Ground glass is dirty and dark. The finder is bent and slightly broken

But the bubble level in the ground glass still works fine.

I would imagine it was made for 117 film size, but I almost bet that a 620 spool would work. Shouldn't be that hard to clean up. Buy a replacement mirror and focusing screen off the Bay and give it a go.

 

[JensH]

OK, here are some photos, it's rougher than I remembered. The shutter is extremely hard to turn, and running very slow (3 to 4 seconds on 1 second setting).

View attachment 409168

View attachment 409169
View attachment 409171
View attachment 409172
View attachment 409173

This might be a lost cause for me. I did find a cut down 120 spool inside, but it looks like I also had to sand the ends thinner to make it work, need to explore this more if I'm going to try and use this again. The lenses are fogged on the inside. The mirror is completely wrecked. Ground glass is dirty and dark. The finder is bent and slightly broken

But the bubble level in the ground glass still works fine.

Greg, thank you for the pictures. Could have been worse. ;-)

That 95 years old camera has seen a lot!
So you have a 1930/31 Rolleiflex Original 614.

To help the shutter I would try this first:
No complete flush, no disassambley, no WD40 -
Take some lighter fluid (or better wound spirit) onto some cotton wool wrapped around a tooth stick and wipe through all the gaps where parts move when fireing the shutter.

It is not hard to remove the finder and screen, some water/dish washer soap or Windex or so should remove the dirt off the screen. No alcohol here, as the bubble level should stay in place...

The Tessar can be dissambled to it's three groups without loosing centering/adjustment for a cleaning. The rear group can be left in the shutter to do so. The front group should unscrew into two parts/elements easily...

To clean the viewing lens first unscrew the tiny screw on top. Then the complete optic can be screwed out. Focus adjustment/sync. to the Tessar is lost this way, you'll need to readjust it. Has to be done if the mirror will be replaced, anyway.

Best
Jens

 

[Greg_E2]

I'd really like to find another finder hood to either swap or use for parts, I need a couple brass rivets and one of the sliding/folding arms is in bad shape. I can probably make the rivets with brass wire and a small hammer and punches.