5x7 Lens Selection

[Rick A]

There's always been a bit of confusion about Fuji's 250mm lenses. There are actually THREE. The first is the W f6.7. It's loved by many because of its 398mm image circle.

There there is the NW f6.3 version -- which is simply marked "W". It adds EBC coating but has a smaller circle of 312mm.

There is a later CM-W f6.3 model with a circle of 320mm.

All of them will work well with 5x7, but each is different in optical design, lens coating, weight, size, filter thread, cost, availability, etc.

http://www.subclub.org/fujinon/byfl.htm

The one I own is the NW plasmat design with 312mm image circle. It weighs in at a pound and a half mounted on a Technica style lens board. I replaced it with a CaltarII-N 5.6/240mm (Rodenstock) that has a much larger image circle so I could use some movements on my 8x10.

 

[Rick A]

I'm considering a Fujifilm 250mm f/6.3 W in Copal 1.
Any thought would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mary

If you are serious about this lens, this seller is very reputable, I've bought more than a few items from him. If you click the best offer, you might be able to nick 10% off the lens price.

Fuji Fujinar Fujinon 250mm 6.3 large format Lens | eBay

Fuji Fujinar Fujinon 250mm 6.3 large format Lens Lens is in very good condition and works great. Glass is excellent with no fungus or haze. Shutter is accurate at all speeds. Lens is in very good condition and works great.

www.ebay.com

 

[xkaes]

Just to avoid even MORE confusion, although the seller refers to it as a "Fujinar", it is not. The front cap is from a Fujinar lens. There never was a Fujinar 250mm f6.3.

 

[lobitar]

I'm considering a Fujifilm 250mm f/6.3 W in Copal 1.
Any thought would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mary

In my view 250 is definitely too long considering 'the balance' of your preferences. Personally I would select a 180 W lens. As I perfer prewar, uncoated lenses it might in my case probably be a 180 mm Dagor in shutter; but in your case it should be a postwar, coated specimen, as the prewar (uncoated) Dagor-specimens often tend to have some focusshift. But any modern (preferably multicoated) 180mm W-lens (6-element) would do. Of course, just my two bits worth of observations. Many of the other correspondents surely have shot many, many more photograps than myself on LF, although I've played with 5x7 for abt half a century. Another choice might be a Schneider G-Claron 210 mm (is a 6-lens) in no. 1 shutter, as this lens is v e r y compact considering it's focal lenght; and if memory suits me it covers 18x24 cm admirably. (Also it used to be a budget lens, but I don't know if this still applies?). There's also a 240mm and 270mm G-Claron, both fitting the same compact no. 1 shutter.

 

[tom43]

I would start either with a Rodenstock Apo Sironar W 150mm f/5.6 or a Apo Sironar S 210mm f/5.6, depending on the focal range you see more relevant.

Very good balance of weight/size vs. movements, latest generation of lenses, good coating, sharp as hell.

 

[xkaes]

I would start either with a Rodenstock Apo Sironar W 150mm f/5.6 or a Apo Sironar S 210mm f/5.6, depending on the focal range you see more relevant.

Since Mary began by mentioning --

I'd like to keep from spending extra dollars

I'll warn her that we love to spend other people's money.

 

[AnselMortensen]

My favorite 5x7 lens is a Wollensak 210mm f/4.5 Raptar.

 

[Rick A]

I also have an older Fujinar W 180/5.6 that just covers 8x10, it reportedly only has 305mm image circle but I haven't seen any light falloff in the corners on my 8x10. This is a super choice for 5x7.

 

[Strembicki]

I have a couple of those lenses that I use in the studio with a Linhoff Master Kardan TL and in the field with a 5x7 Deardorff. For a first lens, I really like my Nikkor 210, good enough coverage and plenty sharp, I have used it a great deal in the studio for portrait work. I have used the 120 Super Anguleon in the landscape and its a terrific lens-and Forcal Length but its a lot of glass hanging out on that front standard of my Deardorff and some field 5x7's that can be an issue. I recently got a Symar 300 that I also use on my 8x10 but its a really big old thing and in my experience, best used in the studio.

 

[Axelwik]

I find myself using a 180 more than any other with 5x7. Mine is the tiny little Fujinon A, but also have a Nikon 5.6 180 which is 3x the size and weight, but probably has more coverage and at least as sharp and one stop faster, which you might or might not need. I almost always go with the smaller lighter Fuji when shooting outside.

I usually also carry a 300 Nikon f9 and a 120 or 125.

 

[Marygk46]

I would start either with a Rodenstock Apo Sironar W 150mm f/5.6 or a Apo Sironar S 210mm f/5.6, depending on the focal range you see more relevant.

Very good balance of weight/size vs. movements, latest generation of lenses, good coating, sharp as hell.

If you are serious about this lens, this seller is very reputable, I've bought more than a few items from him. If you click the best offer, you might be able to nick 10% off the lens price.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1463625906...2nio+cqOm5sKFe0DQgLMQsLjE=|tkp:Bk9SR_CJ4PqjZQ

Thanks for sharing. I’ll check it out.
Mary

 

[Marygk46]

I find myself using a 180 more than any other with 5x7. Mine is the tiny little Fujinon A, but also have a Nikon 5.6 180 which is 3x the size and weight, but probably has more coverage and at least as sharp and one stop faster, which you might or might not need. I almost always go with the smaller lighter Fuji when shooting outside.

I usually also carry a 300 Nikon f9 and a 120 or 125.

Is the 300 Nikon difficult to focus being a f9 lens?

 

[Axelwik]

Is the 300 Nikon difficult to focus being a f9 lens?

Not at all. At f9 a 300mm lens has a shallow depth of field.

 

[Marygk46]

Thank you.

Mary

 

[Axelwik]

Thank you.

Mary

Instead of a loupe, I use very powerful reading glasses (6x). Much faster to use than a loupe especially when using tilt etc. and I've never missed focus.

 

[lobitar]

I find myself using a 180 more than any other with 5x7. Mine is the tiny little Fujinon A, but also have a Nikon 5.6 180 which is 3x the size and weight, but probably has more coverage and at least as sharp and one stop faster, which you might or might not need. I almost always go with the smaller lighter Fuji when shooting outside.

I usually also carry a 300 Nikon f9 and a 120 or 125.

Have to agree, a very good choice in general.

 

[lobitar]

Is the 300 Nikon difficult to focus being a f9 lens?

Modern f9 lenses are very sharp wide open, hence no problem. Only if you f.ex. plan to shoot our-of-doors without a dark cloth you may find the ground glass too dim.

 

[lobitar]

Instead of a loupe, I use very powerful reading glasses (6x). Much faster to use than a loupe especially when using tilt etc. and I've never missed focus.

Good point; I remember haveing read that the famous lens designer P. Rudolph recommended to focus without a loupe, he said the loupe induced a certain amount of uncertainty. Of course he may have had his then newly designed Plasmat-lens in mind, that was rather soft wide open.

 

[Jim Peterson]

Another lens that hasn't been mentioned is the 150mm G-Claron f9. Small, lightweight and inexpensive and it covers 5X7. It is an attractive focal length of around 32mm for 35mm equivalent.

 

[Ian Grant]

Another lens that hasn't been mentioned is the 150mm G-Claron f9. Small, lightweight and inexpensive and it covers 5X7. It is an attractive focal length of around 32mm for 35mm equivalent.

According to Schneider the 150mm f9 G-Claron does not cover 7x5, it's also an awkward lens to focus, I have one. There's a huge difference between Circle of Illumination and the sharp image circle. Definitely not a lens for 7x5 architecture,

In comparison, the 300mm f9 300mm Nikkor M is relatively easy to focus, I tend to use my 12" f6.8 Dagor and have rarely used my 300mm Nikkor M. I bought the lens to use on my Wista 45DX, planning later to add a 10x8 camera, however on the Wista it needs full bellows extension made the camera is way more prone to vibration etc even in a slight breeze, the bellows act as a sail. I prefer to use a 360mm f5.5 Tele-Xenar instead, and I can also use it with my Half plate/7x5 cameras.

Ian

 

[Marygk46]

Thanks to all of you for your help.

I purchased the Nikon Nikkor SW 120mm f8 because it seemed a good starting place for landsape and architecture.

I also purchased a Fuji Fujinon CM-W 250mm f6.3, for no particular reason other than it provides good 5x7 coverage, and the price was reasonable. I thought that shooting with these two lenses for a while should help me figure out what other lens I might need to fulfill my needs.

Now I have to figure how to make a decent large format photograph.

Mary

 

[GregY]

According to Schneider the 150mm f9 G-Claron does not cover 7x5, it's also an awkward lens to focus, I have one. There's a huge difference between Circle of Illumination and the sharp image circle. Definitely not a lens for 7x5 architecture,

View attachment 392369


In comparison, the 300mm f9 300mm Nikkor M is relatively easy to focus, I tend to use my 12" f6.8 Dagor and have rarely used my 300mm Nikkor M. I bought the lens to use on my Wista 45DX, planning later to add a 10x8 camera, however on the Wista it needs full bellows extension made the camera is way more prone to vibration etc even in a slight breeze, the bellows act as a sail. I prefer to use a 360mm f5.5 Tele-Xenar instead, and I can also use it with my Half plate/7x5 cameras.

Ian

I've used the 150 g claron on 5x7 quite a bit..... infinity focus & stopped down....for landscapes.... it does cover. You're right though, for architecture with movements it wouldn't be the choice.

 

[Axelwik]

Thanks to all of you for your help.

I purchased the Nikon Nikkor SW 120mm f8 because it seemed a good starting place for landsape and architecture.

I also purchased a Fuji Fujinon CM-W 250mm f6.3, for no particular reason other than it provides good 5x7 coverage, and the price was reasonable. I thought that shooting with these two lenses for a while should help me figure out what other lens I might need to fulfill my needs.

Now I have to figure how to make a decent large format photograph.

Mary

Thanks for letting us know what you decided. You'll get a good start with those two lenses - maybe all you'll ever need, depending on how you shoot with 5x7. Use them for a year and see what happens.

 

[Jan-Peter]

Hi, Mary;

it's exhilarating reading your story! - What camera do you have? - As I got hold of an Italian Durst LAborator 138 enlarger I took the opportunity of a Sinar F2 5x7" monorail camera - and have four lenses, all Fujinon EBC lenses: An SW 125mm, CM-W 210mm, the W 360mm and the T 600mm.

Infact I use the T-600mm Fujinon fairly often though it needs an extension rail.

Have courage and take as many photos as you can carry your camera! - Your selection of lenses is really ideal in my eyes!!

Jan-Peter


Lake of Constance, Southern edge of Germany