5x7 Field Camera Kit Suggestions?

[Tom Stanworth]

Just a comment on the Shen Hao models...the one with the 600mm extension is the HZ and this weighs 4Kg (1Kg more thsn teh ebony SV) and the light one is the FCL which is 4 Kg, but it has only 480mm. So, if you are after a lightish backpacking camera the HZ is out and with it goes your 600mm lens option. however, I feel a 3Kg 5x7 with the option of using the 250g Fuji 450 f12.5 is a very appealing option! Apart from the expensive Ebony (Mahogony ) SV 57 I can only really think of the Canham that provides that sort of extension for that sort of weigh. I am not that keen on teh Canham option because I have read too many comments about problems, rear standarsds moving etc. I think as D. Miller said, the Shen Hao takes some beating but my money would be on the lightweigh version.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

My 5x7 is a Deardorff 5x7 and my current favorite lens for it is my 110mm Schneider Super Symmar XL. I carry my 5x7 kit in a Gregory Z Pack.

 

[sanking]

Apart from the expensive Ebony (Mahogony ) SV 57 I can only really think of the Canham that provides that sort of extension for that sort of weigh. I am not that keen on teh Canham option because I have read too many comments about problems, rear standarsds moving etc. I think as D. Miller said, the Shen Hao takes some beating but my money would be on the lightweigh version.

Some of the comments about problems with the Canham may have been inspired by an early test report on the LF site by someone who apparently did not have a lot of experience in working with view cameras. I have been working with the metal MQC for several months and have not had any problem at all with the rear standard moving. The camera locks down with a lot of rigidity and has been pleasure to work with. It has very extensive movements, as much as anyone would need even for serious architectural photogaphy, a bellows with minimum extension of 53mm and maximum of 609mm, weighs only 2.6 k and folds into a compact package. It also sets up fast and the controls are quite intuitive.

My original intention was to buy the wood 5X7 Canham but I had a chance to buy the MQC used at a good price and am very pleased that I did.

The lenses I use most often with this camera: 125 Fujinon SW, 240mm Fujinon-A, and the 450mm Nikkor-M.

BTW, I owned a 5X7 Shen-Hao (early version) for a while and it was a very good camera, with extensive movements and very rigid. But, like the Ebony it is very heavy and did not mesh well with my needs, which is to have a relatively light weight travel kit for this format. For many years I have used a 5X7 Nagaoka which was close to perfect for my needs, but the MQC Canham offers a lot more in the way of features and bellows draw for just a slight compromise in weight and size.


Sandy

 

[DBP]

Don't your kids play with grenades?

When I was in my early teens I found an unused teargas grenade near the fence by the state police headquarters. Never came up with anything to do with it, though.

Back on topic, For portability it would be hard to beat my old Century 46, which folds into a tight little box like a press camera, and has a triple convertible lens. It even has a prism viewfinder and focus scale, for those days when you want a 5x7 snapshot.

 

[ragc]

Old English style Japanese half-plate from the WWII years here. Has 4x5 and 5x7 backs, weighs in at under 4 lb without lens, has a 23" triple extension and can focus a 90mm lens. It all folds into a box roughly 8" x 8" x 2" including the adapter plate for modern tripod I added, bolted to the old English tripod mount and complete with spirit levels for each axis. eBay cost: $140.00. New bellows (it really didn't need them): $105.00. I shoot 4x5 format with a 90mm Schneider Krausnach Angulon, and both formats with a 150mm Fuji Fujinon and a 210/370mm convertible Schneider Krausnach Symmar. The whole kit, including six or eight filmholders of each size, my analog Pentax Spotmeter, backup Gossen Luna Six, dark cloth, tape measure, lenses, a few filters and lens cleaning cloth, all carried in my cheap insulated pack, only the tripod not fitting inside. Total investment: less than $600.00 (excluding the tripod). Fun: priceless! All those brandnames are great, but I like having spare change.

 

[sanking]

Old English style Japanese half-plate from the WWII years here. Has 4x5 and 5x7 backs, weighs in at under 4 lb without lens, has a 23" triple extension and can focus a 90mm lens. It all folds into a box roughly 8" x 8" x 2" including the adapter plate for modern tripod I added, bolted to the old English tripod mount and complete with spirit levels for each axis. those brandnames are great, but I like having spare change.

What movements do you have on that camera?

And how about a picture?

Sandy

 

[Tom Stanworth]

Sandy,

So you have the metal 5x7 then. Interesting as I had all but dismissed this one due to comments about lack of rigidity. I would be very interested to know how you find it with the 450mm lens. If the camera is as flexible as you say this could prove useful for me as I will possibly be re(attempting) some architectural work in a few years and will need to fatten the portfolio. none of the cameras I have right now will be able to cope. I was assuming I would have to buy a 5x4 monorail for that but if there is any chance I could double hat the 5x7 field camera and teh architectural camera for a while just to get some basic work together that would be such a boon. On teh 5x7 front I have been looking seriously at the FCL57 as a hiking camera but the Metal canham 5x7 is lighter still and has more movements. If it can handle a 450mm lens with good rigidity it sounds ideal!

 

[ragc]

What movements do you have on that camera?

And how about a picture?

Sandy

Sandy: I have all the movements in front except for swing. They are not extreme, but comparable to any other wood field camera. That is, more than I can use, at my level of expertise. I can also make a lensboard for it like the one I made for my Korona, that adds swing to the front standard. The back standard has swing, and tilt. I can shift using combination movements and 90 degree camera rotation on my tripod if needed. The bed drops for macro shots.

Tom: This setup is NOT extremely rigid due to the lightness of the camera. I am an Architect, but have found it very good for Architectural shots in spite of the lack of rigidity and many non-geared movements (only focus is geared).

4x5 negative taken with 150mm Fujinon lens.

Korona lensboard adding tilt and swing

 

[sanking]

Sandy,

So you have the metal 5x7 then. Interesting as I had all but dismissed this one due to comments about lack of rigidity. I would be very interested to know how you find it with the 450mm lens. If the camera is as flexible as you say this could prove useful for me as I will possibly be re(attempting) some architectural work in a few years and will need to fatten the portfolio. none of the cameras I have right now will be able to cope. I was assuming I would have to buy a 5x4 monorail for that but if there is any chance I could double hat the 5x7 field camera and teh architectural camera for a while just to get some basic work together that would be such a boon. On teh 5x7 front I have been looking seriously at the FCL57 as a hiking camera but the Metal canham 5x7 is lighter still and has more movements. If it can handle a 450mm lens with good rigidity it sounds ideal!

Yes, I bought one used a few months ago. I used it extensively during a recent trip to Spain and am at this point quite familiar with the pros and cons of the caemra. You can find a couple of reviews of the metal 5X7 Canham here. http://www.largeformatphotography.info/roundup5x7.html

As was suggested in the second review, I removed the nylon washers and replaced them with brass in all of the places where there are T bolts. The camera locks down better with the metal washers. The rear standard is supported by only two T bolts but if you lock the bolts down hard the camera is quite rigid at this point. I did not have any movement at all in inserting and removing film holders.

The major criticisms I have of the camera are 1) the lack of real positive zero indents and 2) the lack of usefully placed levels. However, lack of rigidity, even with long lenses, has definitely not been an issue for me.

Sandy

 

[sanking]

Sandy: I have all the movements in front except for swing. They are not extreme, but comparable to any other wood field camera. That is, more than I can use, at my level of expertise. I can also make a lensboard for it like the one I made for my Korona, that adds swing to the front standard. The back standard has swing, and tilt. I can shift using combination movements and 90 degree camera rotation on my tripod if needed. The bed drops for macro shots.

That is a nice looking camera. Did you say it has 23" of bellows draw?

It looks a lot like my 5X7 Nagaoka, which has more movements (swings and tilts on both the front and rear) but less bellows draw (about 14").

Sandy

 

[ragc]

That is a nice looking camera. Did you say it has 23" of bellows draw?

It looks a lot like my 5X7 Nagaoka, which has more movements (swings and tilts on both the front and rear) but less bellows draw (about 14").

Sandy

It's an Asanuma King 1, which I understand was distributed by Asanuma Shokai, Japan's oldest photo distributor. Asanuma branded their cameras "King", but they were made by others. In this case it is probably a Tanaikashi (my spelling could be off), a predecessor of Nagaoka. That is why they look so similar.

I had Mark Kapono replace my bellows. When measuring the original bellows I measured 23". Mark's bellows are a bit shorter because his material is not as thin as the original. I estimate my current bellows draw to be around 18" (those are the new bellows in the bellows stretch photo). I quoted the original length because the triple extension is capable of the 23" stretch, and in fact it did with the original bellows. Attached is a photo of the old bellows, stretched, with a tape measure that unfortunately got knocked around a bit.

 

[timbo10ca]

I've got the Shen Hao HZX. I bought it in January, and it's the first LF camera I've touched, let alone used! For this reason, I don't have anything to compare it to weight wise (hey, what's an extra pound or two?), but I do alot of hiking, (snowshoeing too, but you won't have to worry about *that*) and cycling so my concerns were similar to yours. I seem to be fine with it so far. I chose it over the shorter drawing FCL because I didn't want to limit myself- I photograph pretty much anything (from macro to landscapes to architecture). It seems very stable, and pretty intuitive to use (although there are some clips on the back I can't figure out a use for....), and easy to set up. I haven't gotten much into swing or tilt photography yet, but it seems to have everything possible as far as movements go for a field camera. Lots of bellows draw (I think it's about 33 inches- but you can find all this info on the web). Considering the quality of this camera for the price, I can't imagine the need to get anything else (but like I said, I'm very fresh to this stuff). I can definitely say it's the 5x7 to get for a 1st time LF-er, but you may want to take your advice from the more experienced shooters here who have used a number of cameras in the field.

I only have one lens for it so far- a 180mm f/5.6 Sironar N. I like it, but I'm more used to a true normal lens (would be about 210mm) from shooting 35mm. Overall, I think I made the right choice in going with the "wider" normal though, because it's probably the most versatile. I just need to adapt to it. I'd love a 210 as well, but I can't justify spending the money on something so close. Maybe the next one will be 240mm.

 

[Russ Young]

I'd like to echo Ted Harris and Sandy King's comments on the Canham wooden 5x7- have had mine since 1998 or so, bought new from what is now the View Camera Store. I shoot the largest lenses that can mount on the board (and contrary to Keith's conservative assessment, a Copal #3 clears with a millimeter or two to spare). It is definitely rigid although the lock levers under the rear standard would preclude fat fingers. Also have a 4x5 and 4x10 back for it. Will die with this camera (many years from now, hopefully).
Watch your backside,
Russ

 

[John Kasaian]

How much time do you have to hunt around? How much are you planning on spending? New or used?

Used? Look for a Nagaoka for super light wieght or a Deardorff for Quality

New? Check out the Canham(more $$) or Tachihara (less$$)

Lenses---any G Claron between 210 and the 305 just for starters, or the Nikkor "M" series

My 2-cents, YMMV

 

[timbo10ca]

Don Hutton on the Large Format site is selling the same Shen Hao that I have plus some extras. I have no connection- I just noticed the ad.

Tim