510-Pyro

[mikebarger]

mikebarger submitted a new resource:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists) - 510-Pyro

I found this recipe on another site and really like it.

Just add chemicals in order and then heat to about 150F stirring to dissolve the chemicals.

It works as a one solution staining developer. Use it like HC-110, measure, add to water and go.

I use it with 400 Tri-x 120 at 1:200 @70 degrees for 12 minutes.
HP5 in 4x5 I use 1:100 for 6.5 minutes @ 70 degrees.

Jay has come up with a nice staining developer that was easy for me to use as I didn't have to change procedures from...

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[Luc Cultor]

I think it's only a matter of time before this developer replaces all other staining developers for a majority of users. To know it is to love it. What it does for Plus-X has to be seen to be believed.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

I think it's only a matter of time before this developer replaces all other staining developers for a majority of users. To know it is to love it. What it does for Plus-X has to be seen to be believed.

I've tested 510-Pyro and I strongly prefer Pyrocat-MC.

 

[Luc Cultor]

I'm not here to argue, or advocate. I respect your preference, though I don't share it, and I believe it will eventually place you in the minority.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

I'm not arguing or advocating, just stating my personal preference, based on my comparative testing of several staining developers - and I have more developers to test.

 

[Luc Cultor]

Understood, and I wasn't accusing you of either. If you don't mind saying, what was it in your comparisons that won you over to Pyrocat? I could find nothing to win my heart away from 510 in any of the pyrocatechin developers I've tried.

 

[Luc Cultor]

Did I offend?

 

[Markok765]

What is TEA?

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

TEA is Triethanolamine. It is used as a developing reagent solvent. Tea is also a source of alkali when water is added.

 

[mikebarger]

Marko

510 Pyro has a consistency like HC110.

Mike

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

Mike, you can safely reduce the viscosity of 510-Pyro and other developers mixed in TEA by adding some warm (80 - 100 F) Propylene Glycol to the mix.

 

[mikebarger]

Thanks Tom

Mike

 

[lulalake]

Man, this stuff is really good. I just processed three rolls, over the weekend, in it. FP4+, TX320, and PAN-f, all 120.
The Pan F was OK, the TX302 had far too much grain but the FP4+ rocked!

This stuff gets highlight detail like nothing else.

Mamiye 645AFD, Hartblei 45mm Super Rotator.

Jules

 

[jstraw]

I just mixed my first batch earlier this evening and can't wait to give it a try.

 

[jstraw]

Is there anything I should consider when selecting stop bath and fixer for use with 510-Pyro?

 

[craigclu]

I used TF-4 and Ryuji's neutral fixer with no apparent stain reduction.

Dead Link Removed

I can't recall the source but I also recall hearing that people were doing fine with traditional fixers, too (Kodak Fixer, Ilford).

 

[craigclu]

Has anyone done much testing and curve plotting with 510? When Jay first started with this, I tested a bit and was getting rather dead shadows but nice mid tone through highlight behavior. My curves tended to show a long, flat toe. Can you share your experiences and curves if you have them? It may have been something I had done via mixing, technique or who knows what...

 

[jstraw]

I used TF-4 and Ryuji's neutral fixer with no apparent stain reduction.

Dead Link Removed

I can't recall the source but I also recall hearing that people were doing fine with traditional fixers, too (Kodak Fixer, Ilford).

Good to know. I was planning to use TF-4. Can I use Kodak Indicator Stop Bath with 510 and TF-4?

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

Good to know. I was planning to use TF-4. Can I use Kodak Indicator Stop Bath with 510 and TF-4?

I've never used an acid stop with 510-Pyro, just a plain water rinse. I can understand someone wanting to use an acid stop when using high strength dilutions of 510 that require short developing times

PF recommends a water rinse instead of an acid stop bath with TF-4

See: http://www.photoformulary.com/uploads/03-0141.pdf

However, you should be ok using an acid stop bath after the 510-Pyro if you follow the stop bath with a water rinse.

Clear Fix has sufficient pH buffering that you can go from 510 into an acid stop and then into the Clear Fix. IMHO, it's still a good idea to use a plain water rinse after the stop bath.

 

[jstraw]

I've never used an acid stop with 510-Pyro, just a plain water rinse. I can understand someone wanting to use an acid stop when using high strength dilutions of 510 that require short developing times

PF recommends a water rinse instead of an acid stop bath with TF-4

See: http://www.photoformulary.com/uploads/03-0141.pdf

However, you should be ok using an acid stop bath after the 510-Pyro if you follow the stop bath with a water rinse.

Clear Fix has sufficient pH buffering that you can go from 510 into an acid stop and then into the Clear Fix. IMHO, it's still a good idea to use a plain water rinse after the stop bath.

Since I'll be using the 510-Pyro at somewhere between 1:300 and 1:500 dilution, the water rinse should be fine. And since it's recommended for TF-4, it's what I'll do. Thanks. I'm about to order some FP4+ and get going on some testing with it.

I just happen to have a TON of KISB that I don't know what to do with...

 

[mikebarger]

Have any of you guys seen anything of Jay on the other boards?

His Blog site had this information.

"I recently suffered a personal tragedy and can no longer practice photography."

I think this was a February dated posting.

He had always been very helpful when I had asked him questions about 510 pyro.

Just wondering if anyone had heard anything.

Mike

 

[Loose Gravel]

I have had recent correspondence with him. He repeated that he wasn't practicing photography at the moment, but he was pleasant, answered my questions, and seemed okay. I don't know about his personal life.

On another note, I too find 510 pyro a very interesting developer and I'm considering switching to it for my everyday use, although I have found a bug in it. I don't wish to start a developer war like those that existed here earlier. If other folks are using this developer or have questions and info, post it or send a PM. I'd be very interested in your results. I'm especially interested in regards to replacing PMK in a rotary process and VC silver based printing.

Be well, --LG--

 

[mikebarger]

I've been using it in an old jobo 4323 drum with 2021 reels on a unicolor base and had good luck.

Thanks for the response, I wasn't wanting to dig into his personal life, just concerned about someone that has been friendly/helpful to me.

Thanks

Mike

 

[jstraw]

I've been using it in an old jobo 4323 drum with 2021 reels on a unicolor base and had good luck.

Thanks for the response, I wasn't wanting to dig into his personal life, just concerned about someone that has been friendly/helpful to me.

Thanks

Mike

Jay was helpful to me as well. I'd appreciate a PM with any new information you have about 510-Pyro. I use it as my primary developer...sheet film semi-stand, 1:500...and roll film 1:100 with normal agitation. I'm about to try and work out development times for it in a Jobo tank and a Unicoler base as well.

 

[mikebarger]

I'm using HP5 in 4x5 and use the following, 1:200 for 13 minutes 45 seconds at 70 degrees with the unicolor base.

Mike