I found this recipe on another site and really like it.
Just add chemicals in order and then heat to about 150F stirring to dissolve the chemicals.
It works as a one solution staining developer. Use it like HC-110, measure, add to water and go.
I use it with 400 Tri-x 120 at 1:200 @70 degrees for 12 minutes.
HP5 in 4x5 I use 1:100 for 6.5 minutes @ 70 degrees.
Jay has come up with a nice staining developer that was easy for me to use as I didn't have to change procedures from...
I think it's only a matter of time before this developer replaces all other staining developers for a majority of users. To know it is to love it. What it does for Plus-X has to be seen to be believed.
I used TF-4 and Ryuji's neutral fixer with no apparent stain reduction.
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I can't recall the source but I also recall hearing that people were doing fine with traditional fixers, too (Kodak Fixer, Ilford).
Good to know. I was planning to use TF-4. Can I use Kodak Indicator Stop Bath with 510 and TF-4?
I've never used an acid stop with 510-Pyro, just a plain water rinse. I can understand someone wanting to use an acid stop when using high strength dilutions of 510 that require short developing times
PF recommends a water rinse instead of an acid stop bath with TF-4
See: http://www.photoformulary.com/uploads/03-0141.pdf
However, you should be ok using an acid stop bath after the 510-Pyro if you follow the stop bath with a water rinse.
Clear Fix has sufficient pH buffering that you can go from 510 into an acid stop and then into the Clear Fix. IMHO, it's still a good idea to use a plain water rinse after the stop bath.
I've been using it in an old jobo 4323 drum with 2021 reels on a unicolor base and had good luck.
Thanks for the response, I wasn't wanting to dig into his personal life, just concerned about someone that has been friendly/helpful to me.
Thanks
Mike
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