510 Pyro

[Peter Schrager]

OK-I know that a few of you are trying this out. I need some times for Acros100 and APX100 and or a similar speed film to get me off the ground
Thanks, Peter

 

[c6h6o3]

I have no experience with either of these films in any developer, but I have developed one TMAX 400 negative in 510, and it seems to me that its times are very close to those one would use with ABC pyro. This would make sense, since they are both pyrogallol based developers. HTH

The negative is very nice, BTW. Extremely clean with much more stain than I get with ABC. I've only made a quick and dirty proof print from the negative, but the results are encouraging. I intend to do a lot of experimenting with this most convenient developer.

 

[fhovie]

fp4 at asa 70 for 7.5 min at 70F for an sbr of 9 and a dr of 1.3 tested a few months ago. mix was 1:100.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

fp4 at asa 70 for 7.5 min at 70F for an sbr of 9 and a dr of 1.3 tested a few months ago. mix was 1:100.

Peter, last week I developed a roll of TMY and a roll of Efke 100 in 510 Pyro using a previous post by Frank Hovie as a starting point.: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

For the TMY I used the 1:100 dilution of 510 Pyro at 70 F in a small tank for 9 minutes with 5 seconds of inversion agitation ever 30 seconds.

For the Efke 100 I used the 1:100 dilution of 510 Pyro at 70 F in a small tank for 7.5 minutes with 5 seconds of inversion agitation ever 30 seconds.

Results for both films look excellent - I still need to do the densitometry.

 

[c6h6o3]

Tom-

What were the SBRs of the scenes for the negatives you shot?

Jim

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

Tom-

What were the SBRs of the scenes for the negatives you shot?

Jim

The (35mm) Efke 100 scenes had SBRs that ranged from 6 to 9

The (35mm) TMY scenes had SBRs that ranged from 3 to 7

 

[PhotoPete]

I would encourage anyone with development times not represented on the massive dev chart to add them there. It's not always perfect, but it is a great resource.

 

[ongarine]

I use 510 Pyro in Propylene Glycol and as activator Kodak Balanced alkali, diluition the same of PMK 1:2:100.
These are the times I use currently for 120 film:
FP4 8,30 minutes
HP5 9,30 minutes
Forte 200 10 minutes
Forte 400 12 minutes
J&C 100 9 minutes Excellent combination.
The negatives are really good and I made some test prints with good to excellent results (Fortezo Museum+Neutol WA).
I will test as soon the temperature became more agreable the 8x10 J&C.
Hope this helps.
Daniele

 

[Peter Schrager]

Thank

Thanks to everyone who replied in this thread. I should have have some times for Acros100 soon.
Peter

 

[thanz]

Peter,
I have only shot a couple rolls of acros souped in 510 pyro but for 1:100, 6 min. seems a good starting point and for 1:200, 9 min gave good shadow detail and highlights were held in check.

good luck,
Todd

 

[Canuck]

My times with ACROS (EI=50) is 7 min, 1:100 dilution. For APX100 (EI=50) 8 min @ 1:100 also. All at 70F. Enjoy

 

[mikebarger]

My kit arrived, it may be on apug somewhere, but I'm looking for starting times for Tri-x 120mm and HP5 4X5.

Currently using uniroller base and very old JOBO reels and drum for 4x5 continuos rotation, and common inversion method for the 120.

Thanks

Mike

 

[Peter Schrager]

Well I have to say thank you to everyone who has bothered to post here. On the other side of the coin I have completely abandoned 510 pyro. Reason: it's a mess to work with. Stuff got everywhere and I mean everywhere. Stained everything; my shelves; my sink; etc. Could not remove it from my syringe either.There's only a small amount of things I won't put up with but OVERALL staining is not one. This in NO WAY reflects the ability of this developer to make fine negatives. Just for me I moved on to the Pyrocat-mc formula in Glycol from the Fromulary which is equally good. Used it at 1:1:100 for 8.5 min.(APX100) on a rotary base with excellant results. It also cleans up well!! Just needed something for all the APX100/120 I still have. Plan to try it on some LF film soon.
Best, Peter

 

[JLP]

Thanks Peter for posting your dev time with Pyrocat-MC and APX100. Got a good stach of the APX and a freshly made liter of Pyrocat-MC and have so far not found any starting points for this combination.
Assuming that you use continuous agitation on you roller, how much time would you ad with a 5sec/minute agitation?


jan

 

[john_s]

........There's only a small amount of things I won't put up with but OVERALL staining is not one. This in NO WAY reflects the ability of this developer to make fine negatives.........

Peter, when you say "overall staining" are you referring to general stain on the negative or a mess in your working environment?

For measuring small amounts of viscous developers I use a laboratory pipette with rubber bulb, and then I use part of the water to be used in the dilution to rinse the pipette several times (suck in and squeeze out). I have not found this to be messy.

 

[mikebarger]

Welp, I got it so I'm going to mix it up and give it a try.

Guess I didn't think about staining developers staining anything other than the film

Mike

 

[Peter Schrager]

Overall stain was referring to the mess it made in the environment. Time was for continuous at 75 degrees F. Why the 5 second interval? I never found it to be neccessary. Perhaps someone else will be able to answer your query. If I was to use pipettes It would probably end up in my mouth! They probably would work well.

 

[john_s]

........... If I was to use pipettes It would probably end up in my mouth! ...........

The rubber bulb is used instead of the mouth. There is a valve to control the dispensing of the liquid, making it easy to control accurate delivery of liquid.

 

[juan]

The trouble with pipettes is that this developer is mixed in TEA - it's very thick - like HC-110. I have trouble getting it out of the bottle by any means other than pouring.

I agree with Peter that it makes a big mess. Clorox (chlorine bleach for the laundry) cleans it up.

I don't have any times worked out yet, but I like the fact that it is a one solution developer and that it appears to give very sharp negatives.
juan

 

[JLP]

The reason i was qurious about 5 sec interval/minute is 1. i dont process rotary 2. 5sec/minute is my intervals with all other developers i use and i would like to adjust and apply this to the Pyrocat-MC/APX100 combination to if possible.
Thanks

jan

 

[john_s]

The trouble with pipettes is that this developer is mixed in TEA - it's very thick - like HC-110. ...........

I have used the pipette with HC-110 concentrate and Pyro-510. The capacity of the pipette is 25mL, and it has graduations of 0.2mL. The large diameter (maybe 12mm) makes it easier to deal with the thick dev concentrate.

Since I do film dev in the family bathroom, I would get into serious trouble if I made a mess! I mean even more serious trouble.

 

[mikebarger]

If it isn't any worse than HC110 I'll be fine.

I use a baby medicine syringe for the 110
and don't have any problems.

Mike

 

[mikebarger]

Got the 510 pyro mixed up tonight, couldn't have be easier. Hope to shoot some 120 or couple 4x5's to try it out this weekend.

Right now it doesn't look like it is going to be any harder than HC110 to mix.
No messy environment, although I'm pretty careful when mixing anything and
immediately wash the equipment.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[c6h6o3]

Since I do film dev in the family bathroom, I would get into serious trouble if I made a mess! I mean even more serious trouble.

For any pyrogallol, pyrocatechin or p-phenylenediamine based developer or amidol, Tilex soap scum remover will absolutely obliterate any stains on porcelain, grout, tile, marble, Corian or any other surface which is even remotely porous. You don't even need to wipe if off. Just spray on the Tilex and and watch the stain disappear before your eyes. Truly a miracle product for darkroom workers who use staining developers.

 

[juan]

Unless I'm badly mistaken, Tilex is primarily diluted chlorine bleach. I dilute Clorox 50/50 with water, put it in a spray bottle, and spray the porcelain - get the same results - the pyro stain simply disappears. And it's much less expensive than Tilex.

Perhaps the larger pipettes would work well with 510 Pyro - I had only tried smaller ones.
juan