500 c/m handheld flash

Shadow 2

A
Shadow 2

  • 0
  • 0
  • 7
Shadow 1

A
Shadow 1

  • 1
  • 0
  • 9
Darkroom c1972

A
Darkroom c1972

  • 1
  • 2
  • 20
Tōrō

H
Tōrō

  • 4
  • 0
  • 38

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
198,824
Messages
2,781,468
Members
99,718
Latest member
nesunoio
Recent bookmarks
0

mexipike

Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
377
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Format
Med. Format RF
So I've tried all other options and I've decided that for the current project I'm working on I need a flash. So I'm working with a 500 c/m and need to purchase a flash. It will probably have to be used and pretty inexpensive. I thought about buying a used pistol grip at the local shop and hooking up a flash to the cold shoe, but I assume i could get a better flash that's already on a bracket. I'm not sure if i'd actually use the pistol grip without the flash but ir may be good to have anyway. I also will be using the camera hand held and bounce flash is a must.
Any thoughts???

Thanks,
John
 

eric

Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2002
Messages
1,585
Location
Southern Cal
Format
Multi Format
Vivitar 283 on a bracket? What cold shoe? Hasselblads don't have one unless you have a prism. The pistol grip goes under the body. You mean the the left hand side flash bracket with cold shoe?
 
OP
OP

mexipike

Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
377
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Format
Med. Format RF
Vivitar 283 on a bracket? What cold shoe? Hasselblads don't have one unless you have a prism. The pistol grip goes under the body. You mean the the left hand side flash bracket with cold shoe?

sorry, yes I mean the left hand side bracket.
 

bdial

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 2, 2005
Messages
7,466
Location
North East U.S.
Format
Multi Format
If you're using a waistlevel finder, bouncing with a flash mounted on the accessory rail doesn't seem too feasible.
If bounce is a requirement, you would probably be better off with a handle mount flash, or a detachable grip with a shoe.
I think there is a version of the sports finder that has a shoe, so you could focus with the screen, then turn the camera sideways to frame and and have the flash pointed up.
 

sjperry

Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2005
Messages
79
Format
Medium Format
Best bet is probably a Metz 45 series. It comes with a base bracket that mounts to the bottom of the camera body and is triggered by the PC contact. I use a 45 CT-4 which I bought new about 25 years ago. Never had one problem with it. I use it with my Hassey and Rolleiflex TLR, as well as a Linhof. The Hassey I generally use is a 503CX, which has the capability for TTL exposure control but you can use the same flash with a 500C/M. You just let the meter in the flash control the exposure.

Steve Perry
 

eddym

Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2006
Messages
1,924
Location
Puerto Rico
Format
Multi Format
If you're using a waistlevel finder, bouncing with a flash mounted on the accessory rail doesn't seem too feasible.
It's not too feasible. I have a Sunpack 622, which is a great flash, but if I turn the head up to bounce when I use a WL finder, I would have to use my left eye to focus and frame. I've done this, but it's uncomfortable if you're not accustomed to doing it.
 

Steve Smith

Member
Joined
May 3, 2006
Messages
9,109
Location
Ryde, Isle o
Format
Medium Format
Another vote for the Vivitar 283 or 285 here.

I have the 285 my father used to use for weddings 20+ years ago which still works perfectly.

He told me that at the time, it was the only flash he could find which lived up to the manufacturer's stated output.


Steve.
 

mawz

Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2005
Messages
331
Location
Toronto, ON
Format
35mm
Nikon SB-24 or 25 rather than the vivitar. More power, tilt/swivel head, better interface, standard PC socket, more accessories than the Vivitars as well. Should run $40ish on the used market.

I own and use a 24, 26 and 28 (the 26 has an optical slave but are pricey on the used market, the 28 is smaller and has improved ergonomics).
 

jamie

Member
Joined
May 22, 2006
Messages
49
Format
Medium Format
I have a Metz 45 CT-4 that I got off eBay for about $40 and so far it's been working pretty well with my 501CM. If you don't have a prism for your Hassy then get one. I'm using a Kiev NC-2 type 45° prism which is pretty cheap and works perfectly.
 
OP
OP

mexipike

Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
377
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Format
Med. Format RF
I have an old metered prism, but I can't seem to find sharp focus on it. What is the Denis Reggie bracket?
 

TheFlyingCamera

Membership Council
Advertiser
Joined
May 24, 2005
Messages
11,546
Location
Washington DC
Format
Multi Format
Another vote for a Vivitar 283/285, and get a Stroboframe bracket. You can get away with using the standard Stroboframe bracket that is designed for 35mm cameras when using a Hasselblad, even with the WL finder. If you want to get the flash even further above the camera but keep it on axis, you can get a bigger medium-format sized Stroboframe which is more expensive. They even make one that will let you mount a handle-mount flash.
 

Sirius Glass

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
50,364
Location
Southern California
Format
Multi Format
I use a bracket [built for 35mm] that attaches to the bottom and is held in the left hand. The strobe is directly over and above the center line of the camera.

Steve
 
Joined
Oct 25, 2004
Messages
1,057
Location
Westport, MA
Format
Large Format
I use a cheap stroboframe bracket, one that is probably designed for 35mm cameras. I use an old Pentax dedicated flash (it's what's handy). It works good. I use the waistlevel too, but a prism might be more comfortable.
 

Nokton48

Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2006
Messages
2,990
Format
Multi Format
Mexipike,

When I was shooting weddings, I came up with a simple, not too expensive bracket which I could use with my Hasselblads, all made from easily available parts. I started with the Medium Format Stroboframe Bracket ($50 new/ $20 used) and ended up with six of these. I added a Hasselblad Quick Release to each bracket, so I could interchange bodies quickly during a wedding. Finally, I drilled a hole into the "L" base of each bracket, and bolted on a Manfrotto Hex Plate, so I could snap the rig onto a tripod, as required. All of this works well, even under pressure.

The Vivitar 283 is still the best way to go. Get a Quantum Bantam battery (I bolted mine to the arm part of each bracket) if you need really quick recycling. About as good as it gets.
 
OP
OP

mexipike

Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
377
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Format
Med. Format RF
Thanks for all the advice. I think that I'll definitely go with a stroboframe and a 283. It turns out my dad has one lying around that he doesn't use. I think I'll get the quick flip 120, but there's also a good deal on a Deniss reggie. Which one is better suited, would I not be able to use the deniss reggie handheld?

Thanks,
John
 

Nokton48

Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2006
Messages
2,990
Format
Multi Format
I'm not sure why the Reggie Bracket -is- better. It has -his- name on it :smile:

I'd go with the Quick-Flip 120. I was buying these used at Midwest Photo for $20/ea, really nothing to go wrong on these. BTW you won't use the flip-feature, unless you also have a 4.5x6 camera.

I've tried the 35mm Quick-Flip, but I wouldnt recommend that with the 500CM. It has a tendency to come unscrewed at the most -inappropriate- times :sad: But I would recommend getting a #45128 Hasselblad Tripod Quick Coupling, to use on your Quick-Flip 120.

I also put a Quantum Radio Slave on each bracket (which fires supplemental lights, called "satellites"), and I would put a diffuser on the 283, for shooting up close, epecially. It really improves the quality of the light. I prefer the "Photoflex XTC-Small" which is inflatable, weighs -nothing-. But young kids at weddings all wanted to "squeeze the funny beachball" :smile:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
OP
OP

mexipike

Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
377
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Format
Med. Format RF
Sounds like a plan, one more question if I get a quantum bantam, do I also have to buy a module or will it work without it?
 

Nokton48

Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2006
Messages
2,990
Format
Multi Format
Hi

Yes, you will need the 283 module, which at one end, is a male (locking) plug into the Bantam, the other end replaces the "battery tray" in the 283. You will need a file a -small- slot in the 283 battery cover, so you can close it, without pinching the module cord.

With a Bantam battery, you can do around 150 shots on manual, and many, many, more on automatic. A very worthwhile soup-up. Make sure it comes with the battery charger.
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom