500 c/m handheld flash

mexipike

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So I've tried all other options and I've decided that for the current project I'm working on I need a flash. So I'm working with a 500 c/m and need to purchase a flash. It will probably have to be used and pretty inexpensive. I thought about buying a used pistol grip at the local shop and hooking up a flash to the cold shoe, but I assume i could get a better flash that's already on a bracket. I'm not sure if i'd actually use the pistol grip without the flash but ir may be good to have anyway. I also will be using the camera hand held and bounce flash is a must.
Any thoughts???

Thanks,
John
 

eric

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Vivitar 283 on a bracket? What cold shoe? Hasselblads don't have one unless you have a prism. The pistol grip goes under the body. You mean the the left hand side flash bracket with cold shoe?
 
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mexipike

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eric said:
Vivitar 283 on a bracket? What cold shoe? Hasselblads don't have one unless you have a prism. The pistol grip goes under the body. You mean the the left hand side flash bracket with cold shoe?
Click to expand...

sorry, yes I mean the left hand side bracket.
 

bdial

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If you're using a waistlevel finder, bouncing with a flash mounted on the accessory rail doesn't seem too feasible.
If bounce is a requirement, you would probably be better off with a handle mount flash, or a detachable grip with a shoe.
I think there is a version of the sports finder that has a shoe, so you could focus with the screen, then turn the camera sideways to frame and and have the flash pointed up.
 

sjperry

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Best bet is probably a Metz 45 series. It comes with a base bracket that mounts to the bottom of the camera body and is triggered by the PC contact. I use a 45 CT-4 which I bought new about 25 years ago. Never had one problem with it. I use it with my Hassey and Rolleiflex TLR, as well as a Linhof. The Hassey I generally use is a 503CX, which has the capability for TTL exposure control but you can use the same flash with a 500C/M. You just let the meter in the flash control the exposure.

Steve Perry
 

eddym

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bdial said:
If you're using a waistlevel finder, bouncing with a flash mounted on the accessory rail doesn't seem too feasible.
Click to expand...
It's not too feasible. I have a Sunpack 622, which is a great flash, but if I turn the head up to bounce when I use a WL finder, I would have to use my left eye to focus and frame. I've done this, but it's uncomfortable if you're not accustomed to doing it.
 

Steve Smith

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Another vote for the Vivitar 283 or 285 here.

I have the 285 my father used to use for weddings 20+ years ago which still works perfectly.

He told me that at the time, it was the only flash he could find which lived up to the manufacturer's stated output.


Steve.
 

mawz

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Nikon SB-24 or 25 rather than the vivitar. More power, tilt/swivel head, better interface, standard PC socket, more accessories than the Vivitars as well. Should run $40ish on the used market.

I own and use a 24, 26 and 28 (the 26 has an optical slave but are pricey on the used market, the 28 is smaller and has improved ergonomics).
 

jamie

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I have a Metz 45 CT-4 that I got off eBay for about $40 and so far it's been working pretty well with my 501CM. If you don't have a prism for your Hassy then get one. I'm using a Kiev NC-2 type 45° prism which is pretty cheap and works perfectly.
 
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mexipike

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I have an old metered prism, but I can't seem to find sharp focus on it. What is the Denis Reggie bracket?
 

TheFlyingCamera

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Another vote for a Vivitar 283/285, and get a Stroboframe bracket. You can get away with using the standard Stroboframe bracket that is designed for 35mm cameras when using a Hasselblad, even with the WL finder. If you want to get the flash even further above the camera but keep it on axis, you can get a bigger medium-format sized Stroboframe which is more expensive. They even make one that will let you mount a handle-mount flash.
 

Sirius Glass

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I use a bracket [built for 35mm] that attaches to the bottom and is held in the left hand. The strobe is directly over and above the center line of the camera.

Steve
 

Phillip P. Dimor

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I use a cheap stroboframe bracket, one that is probably designed for 35mm cameras. I use an old Pentax dedicated flash (it's what's handy). It works good. I use the waistlevel too, but a prism might be more comfortable.
 

Nokton48

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Mexipike,

When I was shooting weddings, I came up with a simple, not too expensive bracket which I could use with my Hasselblads, all made from easily available parts. I started with the Medium Format Stroboframe Bracket ($50 new/ $20 used) and ended up with six of these. I added a Hasselblad Quick Release to each bracket, so I could interchange bodies quickly during a wedding. Finally, I drilled a hole into the "L" base of each bracket, and bolted on a Manfrotto Hex Plate, so I could snap the rig onto a tripod, as required. All of this works well, even under pressure.

The Vivitar 283 is still the best way to go. Get a Quantum Bantam battery (I bolted mine to the arm part of each bracket) if you need really quick recycling. About as good as it gets.
 
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mexipike

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Thanks for all the advice. I think that I'll definitely go with a stroboframe and a 283. It turns out my dad has one lying around that he doesn't use. I think I'll get the quick flip 120, but there's also a good deal on a Deniss reggie. Which one is better suited, would I not be able to use the deniss reggie handheld?

Thanks,
John
 

Nokton48

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I'm not sure why the Reggie Bracket -is- better. It has -his- name on it

I'd go with the Quick-Flip 120. I was buying these used at Midwest Photo for $20/ea, really nothing to go wrong on these. BTW you won't use the flip-feature, unless you also have a 4.5x6 camera.

I've tried the 35mm Quick-Flip, but I wouldnt recommend that with the 500CM. It has a tendency to come unscrewed at the most -inappropriate- times But I would recommend getting a #45128 Hasselblad Tripod Quick Coupling, to use on your Quick-Flip 120.

I also put a Quantum Radio Slave on each bracket (which fires supplemental lights, called "satellites"), and I would put a diffuser on the 283, for shooting up close, epecially. It really improves the quality of the light. I prefer the "Photoflex XTC-Small" which is inflatable, weighs -nothing-. But young kids at weddings all wanted to "squeeze the funny beachball"
 
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mexipike

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Sounds like a plan, one more question if I get a quantum bantam, do I also have to buy a module or will it work without it?
 

Nokton48

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Hi

Yes, you will need the 283 module, which at one end, is a male (locking) plug into the Bantam, the other end replaces the "battery tray" in the 283. You will need a file a -small- slot in the 283 battery cover, so you can close it, without pinching the module cord.

With a Bantam battery, you can do around 150 shots on manual, and many, many, more on automatic. A very worthwhile soup-up. Make sure it comes with the battery charger.
 
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