50 sheets of FB paper. How should I develop them?

[gone]

I'm going to do some experimenting w/ 8x10 fb matt papers, w/ the idea of making some 11x14's later. It would be nice to get some different looking prints than usually come from my enlarger. Beyond warm tone developers, are there any suggestions? I don't want to do any toning or alternative processing, just something that might look a little different. It's all B&W 35mm negs, that's all the current enlarger can handle.

 

[mshchem]

Depends on the paper. I use Bromophen, have forever. You could try Selectol Soft (whatever Freestyle is calling it) toning is your best option for something different. Make test strips develop the paper for at least 2min at 20°C

 

[eddie]

Have you considered Sabattier/solarization?

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I second eddie's suggestion.

 

[mshchem]

Ohh yeah that's a good idea

 

[gone]

The paper is Ilford FB matt. I used it in 11x14, and it took a number of prints before I figured out that it wasn't ever going to give me the deep blacks of the cool tone glossy fb, but it wasn't about that. It has a more fragile look, and when it works w/ the right neg it looks really good. It also doesn't show reflections like the glossy fb.

Solarization could work, it's probably going to be very image specific. Thanks, I'll try it. I thought about lith printing, but I don't know if they can be lithed, and it's probably beyond my skills at this point. The photographer's work below interests me, it looks almost like an Old Master drawing or print.

So, warm tone developers and solarization, that should be fun.

http://www.poupoutsisandreas.com/new-gallery

 

[eddie]

The matte finish is perfect for hand coloring, if you'd like to try that.
Another thing you can try is diffusing the print during exposure.
If you can get exposure times long enough, expose it properly focused for about 75%, then slightly rack it out of focus for the remaining 25%.
Scrunch up some saran wrap, and lay it on top of the paper, and expose through it.
Put the exposed print on tilted plexiglass, and develop it with a misting spray bottle filled with developer.

Just let your imagination go... Try anything your mind comes up with. It may not be successful, but it just might get you closer to something that is.

 

[NB23]

Selenium toning

 

[koraks]

I don't want to do any toning or alternative processing

So no selenium, lith, sabbatier etc.
Or, since apparently lith and sabbatier are permissible, the 'no alternative processing' bit is not really a requirement? In that case I'd suggest whipping out the toners for sure. It's the most straightforward route towards other looks.

 

[Don_ih]

it's probably beyond my skills at this point

Lith printing is overexposing the paper and developing in very dilute lith developer until it looks how you want it, then you quickly put it in the stop bath. (You need to arrest highlight development.) That can take 20 minutes of watching the paper doing nothing in the developer and then a few seconds of rapid development. I don't know if it tests your skills as much as your patience - let's say it requires dedictation. Ilford MGIV should be fine. Older Ilford papers may or may not work - I don't think MGIII or MGII work at all.

 

[tezzasmall]

Lith printing is overexposing the paper and developing in very dilute lith developer until it looks how you want it... Ilford MGIV should be fine. Older Ilford papers may or may not work - I don't think MGIII or MGII work at all.

Like others, I have tried Ilford's papers and none of them lith, so I'd save the paper for some other process. Hand colouring sounds fun.

As for FB matt paper, there are actually some of us out there that love the paper and it's non deep blacks!

Terry S

 

[Rick A]

This is something that I used to play with years ago, interesting results can be had.
https://www.freestylephoto.biz/18383-Rockland-Colloid-Halochrome-(Makes-64-oz.)

 

[gone]

Ah, so those papers I bought won't lith anyway. That's OK, I enjoyed working w/ them last time. The thinner Foma papers had to be treated w/ kid gloves to avoid bumps and kinks, the Ilford was much sturdier.

I did say no lith processes, but lith is actually one that I wouldn't need to buy a bunch of new equipment or chemicals. Eddie had some great suggestions, thanks to everyone here.

I went through about 150 sheets of FB and RC papers some months ago. After that, I have the RC down, but the FB looks and acts very differently.

It took many attempts to get the FB to dry too. What worked best was to run the shower for humidity, take a clothes pin and hang the paper by one end like an RC, spritz it w/ distilled water, and just leave it alone. They dry much flatter than one would think, w/ just a gentle curve.