4x5 Developing

[Alan Edward Klein]

One other thing. North Coast will accept your film still in the holders and return them to you with the processed sheets. So if you've marked up the holder like Pull +1 etc, it makes it easy for you and them to process each separately. Plus you don;t have to take them out of the holders before shipping. Of course, you'd need extra holders to use in the meanwhile. But that might be a handy service for people who want it. I don't think there's an extra charge except for postage. But check with them if interested.

 

[AnselMortensen]

For B/W, I use the 4x5 and 5x7 B-W Man tanks from China. They're big stainless steel tanks. I alternate between inversion agitation and rotary agitation.

 

[Mal Paso]

I was lucky enough to find Tomorrow Tech Stainless 4x5 hangers and develop in 1 gallon open top Yankee Tanks 12 at a time. I use a gralab timer on the wall above the tanks but I slip a sheet of cardboard into a holder between the timer and tanks so no timer glow can hit the film.

My old setup was custom plastic hangers that did 20 at a time vertically in 1 gallon tanks. They were hand built due to hyper edge developing with standard hangers. At one time I had E6, C22 and B&W.

Old fashioned wood cloths pins have just the right tooth to grab sheet film without damage or dropping. None of the Pro Metal ones I bought worked as well.

 

[grat]

Another vote for the SP445. I've got another reel (not the MOD54-- I don't like the design) that works in the Paterson tanks, but I have yet to test it.

With the SP-810 with 4x5 negatives, you need to be careful with the vertical "supports" (that keep the film below the fluid level). A friend has one, and managed to get them on top of the negative, leading to some small squares of undeveloped film.

 

[ColdEye]

Any comments on B's 4x5 reel? I already have a 3 reel paterson tank. I am deciding between that or the SP445.

 

[abruzzi]

I currently use a SP-445, and mostly find it easy to use. My complaints are filling is slow and slightly irregular (I sometimes have to agitate the tank a little during filling otherwise the chemistry level looks higher than it is), leaks (minor, but do it over a sink), and the difficulty removing the lid.

I have been developing smaller sheets (2.25x3.25 and 6.5x9) using 20th Century quick load holders. I found them very easy to use, with good results (they fit in Patterson tanks, so are as well sealed as your Patterson is in other contexts.). So I bought the 4x5 version, which develops 6 sheets in the 1l Patterson 3 tank. I haven’t used it yet, but if it’s anything like their smaller ones, it will be pretty easy to use.

https://20thcenturycamera.com/collections/film-reels?page=1

 

[winger]

Another Combi-plan user here, but I also have the Mod54 and the SP-445 though I haven't used them yet. I will likely try the SP445 before the Mod54, but not sure when.

I finally used the SP-445 and might never use the Combiplan again. My Combiplan leaks - not enough to lose too much volume, but enough to be annoying. The SP-445 was easy to use (might need more practice loading) and was easy to fill, dump, refill, etc.. Since I don't get to shoot as much as I want, doing 4 sheets at a time is better than waiting 'til I have 6 for the Combiplan.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Please, quit talking about the SP-445!

I've got a Yankee Agitank (bought new, this year), and just started using replenished developer, so I no longer care that it takes 64 ounces for anything from one to twelve sheets of 4x5 -- so I don't need to spend 3x the money for an easier to use tank that uses 1/8 the liquid for 1/3 the film and can be inversion agitated...

 

[JWMster]

I use a Jobo with 2520 tanks and 4 sheets on each 2509 reel (leave the middle empty). Works fine. Hoping the 20thCentury reels for Jobo might change and allow trouble free 6 sheets per reel, but still waiting on that. The 2509 sheet loader works "okay" but the whole of the 2509 reel process is a bit fidgety between the loader and the flippers.
I've used other methods, but the Jobo is the easiest and most reliable for straight ahead everyday processing.

 

[tim48v]

Sorry I didn't see this earlier! The SP-445 will fill/drain in 10 seconds. Try holding the tank with the vent end slightly higher when filling. Also, it shouldn't leak at all if you do the "squeeze play".


Let us know if your still have questions: info@stearmanpress.com

Tim

I currently use a SP-445, and mostly find it easy to use. My complaints are filling is slow and slightly irregular (I sometimes have to agitate the tank a little during filling otherwise the chemistry level looks higher than it is), leaks (minor, but do it over a sink), and the difficulty removing the lid.

I have been developing smaller sheets (2.25x3.25 and 6.5x9) using 20th Century quick load holders. I found them very easy to use, with good results (they fit in Patterson tanks, so are as well sealed as your Patterson is in other contexts.). So I bought the 4x5 version, which develops 6 sheets in the 1l Patterson 3 tank. I haven’t used it yet, but if it’s anything like their smaller ones, it will be pretty easy to use.

https://20thcenturycamera.com/collections/film-reels?page=1

 

[focus_on_infinity]

I love the SP-445. I haven't had a failure with it yet. I'm getting better at filling it quickly. If you've measured out your 475ml of solution first, you can pour more confidently. It doesn't really get backed up.

 

[JWMster]

Comment on B's reel: I wrote the folks to ask whether they might make a Jobo compatible reel. "Nope". Intent is to work with his own gear. Looks interesting, but I already have a Jobo with good results... so....?

On the other hand, I bought one of his 4X5 drying stands. That works fine. I use as an initial stop after pulling the film out of the tank. I let it drain, squeegee and then hang overnight.

 

[Greg Heath]

Good Morning, JA,

My favorite method, by far, is rotary processing. Four sheets in an 8 x 10 drum (Chromega or Unicolor) require minimal quantities of solution, can be done in room light, and should result in very even development. Just be sure than any splines and/or spacers are included with a drum to keep the individual sheets separated.

I have also used the SP-445 tank with excellent results. It's not hard to load, but the solution amounts are greater.

Konical

And if anybody needs spacers for your tanks...I have made a 3D printable version of the plastic spacers... here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3586862

I offer it for free. Use Thingiverse to find a printer for it. Greg

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I've been using BTZS tubes for both 4x5 and 8x10, for over twenty years. They are very economical. For 500ml of working solution, I can do two 8x10 sheets. If I don't want to do continuous agitation, I fill the tubes to the brim, slip the film in, agitate by rolling, then let stand vertically for a minute (or longer), and agitate again...

 

[Cholentpot]

I've not developed yet as I've only shot my first sheets but I did get a Yankee slosher, took one look at it and splurged for a SP-445 which I'm waiting for. Yankee slosh-o-matic never stood a chance.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I've not developed yet as I've only shot my first sheets but I did get a Yankee slosher, took one look at it and splurged for a SP-445 which I'm waiting for. Yankee slosh-o-matic never stood a chance.

I'd heard terrible things about the Yankee Agitank, too. Bad enough that I built myself a set of developing tubes (including a light trap fill/drain neck with cap) out of plastic drain pipe.

There are problems with tube development, though (BTZS notwithstanding): it takes a lot of solution if you don't have a setup where you can prefill and roll agitate like BTZS does, is slow to fill and drain (requiring long development times to avoid unevenness), can scratch either inserting or removing the film, and there's a strong tendency to retain antihalation dye on the base side (enough so that I'd taken to fixing in a tray, opening the tubes after stop bath).

With the price of the Yankee tank, I gave it a try -- and it works fine. It fills very quickly if you don't (as I did on my first try) attempt to pour from a small-necked bottle, and drains as fast, it agitates nicely by sliding back and forth (Kodak method) or by tipping to one end and then the other, can be used for stand or semi-stand processing, holds anywhere from one to a dozen sheets, and did I mention it's only about $35 new, often less than that on eBay? If you're a real stickler for uniform development start, it can even be prefilled and the loaded film carrier dropped in, as with most other daylight tank systems (plastic or stainless). It's cheap enough to even have three and treat them like a dip & dunk line.

 

[Konical]

"I've not developed yet as I've only shot my first sheets but I did get a Yankee slosher, took one look at it and splurged for a SP-445 which I'm waiting for. Yankee slosh-o-matic never stood a chance."

Good Afternoon, Cholenpot,

I have a Yankee I bought at least four decades ago. I used it a few times, but soon put it in storage. You will probably be satisfied with the SP-445; I have found that it works very well, although using an 8 × 10 color processing tube takes a smaller amount of processing solution. One possibility I've considered is doing a little modification of the Yankee and turning it into a film-washer. I just never seem to get around to it.

Konical

 

[Cholentpot]

I'd heard terrible things about the Yankee Agitank, too. Bad enough that I built myself a set of developing tubes (including a light trap fill/drain neck with cap) out of plastic drain pipe.

There are problems with tube development, though (BTZS notwithstanding): it takes a lot of solution if you don't have a setup where you can prefill and roll agitate like BTZS does, is slow to fill and drain (requiring long development times to avoid unevenness), can scratch either inserting or removing the film, and there's a strong tendency to retain antihalation dye on the base side (enough so that I'd taken to fixing in a tray, opening the tubes after stop bath).

With the price of the Yankee tank, I gave it a try -- and it works fine. It fills very quickly if you don't (as I did on my first try) attempt to pour from a small-necked bottle, and drains as fast, it agitates nicely by sliding back and forth (Kodak method) or by tipping to one end and then the other, can be used for stand or semi-stand processing, holds anywhere from one to a dozen sheets, and did I mention it's only about $35 new, often less than that on eBay? If you're a real stickler for uniform development start, it can even be prefilled and the loaded film carrier dropped in, as with most other daylight tank systems (plastic or stainless). It's cheap enough to even have three and treat them like a dip & dunk line.

I got it pretty cheap, I figure if there's ever a point where I need to develop a dozen or so sheets at once I have it laying around. I just can't bear with using 55oz for 3-4 sheets of film. It insults me. 475 is acceptable.

"I've not developed yet as I've only shot my first sheets but I did get a Yankee slosher, took one look at it and splurged for a SP-445 which I'm waiting for. Yankee slosh-o-matic never stood a chance."

Good Afternoon, Cholenpot,

I have a Yankee I bought at least four decades ago. I used it a few times, but soon put it in storage. You will probably be satisfied with the SP-445; I have found that it works very well, although using an 8 × 10 color processing tube takes a smaller amount of processing solution. One possibility I've considered is doing a little modification of the Yankee and turning it into a film-washer. I just never seem to get around to it.

Konical

Good idea about a film washer. I'm glad something like the SP-445 is around or I'd be up a creek.

 

[focus_on_infinity]

Good idea about a film washer. I'm glad something like the SP-445 is around or I'd be up a creek.

I just stick one end of my Paterson film washer tube into the fill side and let it run. It works pretty well like that.

 

[Cholentpot]

I just stick one end of my Paterson film washer tube into the fill side and let it run. It works pretty well like that.

I run a hose out of my sink into my tanks when I rinse. This should work pretty much the same.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I'd heard terrible things about the Yankee Agitank, too. Bad enough that I built myself a set of developing tubes (including a light trap fill/drain neck with cap) out of plastic drain pipe.

There are problems with tube development, though (BTZS notwithstanding): it takes a lot of solution if you don't have a setup where you can prefill and roll agitate like BTZS does, is slow to fill and drain (requiring long development times to avoid unevenness), can scratch either inserting or removing the film, and there's a strong tendency to retain antihalation dye on the base side (enough so that I'd taken to fixing in a tray, opening the tubes after stop bath).

With the price of the Yankee tank, I gave it a try -- and it works fine. It fills very quickly if you don't (as I did on my first try) attempt to pour from a small-necked bottle, and drains as fast, it agitates nicely by sliding back and forth (Kodak method) or by tipping to one end and then the other, can be used for stand or semi-stand processing, holds anywhere from one to a dozen sheets, and did I mention it's only about $35 new, often less than that on eBay? If you're a real stickler for uniform development start, it can even be prefilled and the loaded film carrier dropped in, as with most other daylight tank systems (plastic or stainless). It's cheap enough to even have three and treat them like a dip & dunk line.

Yes, you should always pull the film from the tubes when going into the fixer. Some film's backing takes longer to remove, like TMY-2. Pre-soaking in a tray of water, before sticking in the tubes for development, helps for these types of films.

 

[MattKing]

I just can't bear with using 55oz for 3-4 sheets of film. It insults me.

That is one of the best things about using replenished chemicals.
Whether you use 55 oz, or 475 ml, it all just goes back into the bottle to be used again, less a little bit to make room for the replenisher.

 

[Cholentpot]

That is one of the best things about using replenished chemicals.
Whether you use 55 oz, or 475 ml, it all just goes back into the bottle to be used again, less a little bit to make room for the replenisher.

I have a big 'ol bottle of HC110 replenisher I bought by mistake years ago. Only problem is it's for freestlye brand HC110 so it's been useless for me. Maybe now I should get some LC110...

 

[Donald Qualls]

I just can't bear with using 55oz for 3-4 sheets of film. It insults me.

There are two situations in which that's not a problem: replenished developer (I use the same amount of replenishment stock for 4 sheets in my Yankee as I would in an SP-445), or a developer that's almost free (like Parodinal at high dilution -- fifteen or twenty cents for a full Yankee tank). Coincidentally, I started using Xtol replenished the same week I got my Agitank.

Yes, you should always pull the film from the tubes when going into the fixer. Some film's backing takes longer to remove, like TMY-2. Pre-soaking in a tray of water, before sticking in the tubes for development, helps for these types of films.

If I'm going to presoak film, in the dark, I may as well tray develop. The whole point of the tube construction (which I used to use regularly, BTW) was to be able to do the liquid work in the light. I've never done well with tray development of sheet film; if they'd cut it with rounded corners, I'd probably be more confident on that front, but I've scratched hell out of a negative I was very fond of, developing it in trays with three others. I've read up on the technique half a dozen times, and I still can't picture how anyone can handle 8-12 sheets, shuffling once a minute, in a tray, in the dark, plus stop bath and fixer, without scraping off half the emulsion.

 

[Cholentpot]

There are two situations in which that's not a problem: replenished developer (I use the same amount of replenishment stock for 4 sheets in my Yankee as I would in an SP-445), or a developer that's almost free (like Parodinal at high dilution -- fifteen or twenty cents for a full Yankee tank). Coincidentally, I started using Xtol replenished the same week I got my Agitank.



If I'm going to presoak film, in the dark, I may as well tray develop. The whole point of the tube construction (which I used to use regularly, BTW) was to be able to do the liquid work in the light. I've never done well with tray development of sheet film; if they'd cut it with rounded corners, I'd probably be more confident on that front, but I've scratched hell out of a negative I was very fond of, developing it in trays with three others. I've read up on the technique half a dozen times, and I still can't picture how anyone can handle 8-12 sheets, shuffling once a minute, in a tray, in the dark, plus stop bath and fixer, without scraping off half the emulsion.

How does Parodinal hold for shelf life? Does it last for lifetimes like Rodinal?

I think I'm going to try the taco method tonight, I can't wait another half week for the Stearman to come in.