4x5 Developing

[M Carter]

Another Combi-plan user here, but I'm looking at different solutions. Takes forever to fill and empty the tank, and needs a liter-plus of developer. I like the look of the MOD tanks myself.

 

[MattKing]

If you are using something like a Combi-plan tank, you really, really should investigate developer replenishment. Using X-Tol as an example and a 1 litre tank, if you develop four sheets of 4x5 replenishment allows you to use up just 70ml of developer as compared to a litre of working strength 1 + 1 developer.
It even makes sense for lower volume options like the Mod-54 or SP-445.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

BTZS tubes.

 

[winger]

Another Combi-plan user here, but I also have the Mod54 and the SP-445 though I haven't used them yet. I will likely try the SP445 before the Mod54, but not sure when.

 

[M Carter]

If you are using something like a Combi-plan tank, you really, really should investigate developer replenishment. Using X-Tol as an example and a 1 litre tank, if you develop four sheets of 4x5 replenishment allows you to use up just 70ml of developer as compared to a litre of working strength 1 + 1 developer.
It even makes sense for lower volume options like the Mod-54 or SP-445.

I use primarily Rodinal; I'm about 99% lith prints and it's a stellar combination. I've never looked into replenishing Rodinal, and it worries me, all the time and testing and dialing in I've done to get negs that print how I want them to. Something to google one of these days though, but I like the look of the SP44; the fill and drain times for the Combi plan really bother me, I feel like someday, uneven development will bite me.

 

[MattKing]

I don't think that Rodinal can be used in a replenishment regime.
The biggest advantage of replenishment for LF users is that it totally takes away the reluctance to develop small quantities of film due to the "waste" of developer.

 

[btaylor]

Good point on the developer quantity in the Combi Plan. I was using it with TMax RS a replenished developer, so the liter in the tank wasn’t really an issue. My developing is less frequent now, so I’ve switched to the Freestyle clone of HC110, one shot at dilution H it isn’t a big concern cost-wise. I too have had concerns about the somewhat long fill/drain times, but I’ve never encountered any problems.

 

[mnemosyne]

I am currently using the SP-445 and like the results very much. It is a neat little device, quite easy to load and handle and the ratio of sheet numbers vs required solution volume seems to be just perfect. The results are very even.

Tray processing works too, but you do need quite a bit of routine and discipline to avoid scratches and other associated problems. What I didn't like at all about tray processing was that I had to stand around in complete darkness for up to 15 minutes, which I found not very comfortable. Also temperature control in trays was difficult in winter in my darkroom.

I also tried rotary processing (Jobo 2509 sheet film reel with manual rolling on a DIY roller base), but for the life of me could not get decent results. Though I tried different rotation techniques and solution volumes, I always ended up with those flow marks, straight lines of elevated density visible against smooth backgrounds, so finally gave up on it.

 

[Marco Gilardetti]

If you are using something like a Combi-plan tank, you really, really should investigate developer replenishment.

I appreciate your care, but I find absolutely no need to do that. One-shot developers deteriorate so quickly after the bottle is opened, that I am forced to discard some unused content in most cases. With re-usable developers that come with their time-correction tables, the problem doesn't exist altogether.

I also agree with other users that the time needed to fill/empty the tank has absolutely no effect on the negatives. It would perhaps concern me in case I had to develop at extremely high temperatures with a highly concentrated developer, but I can hardly foresee having to do this anytime in my life.

By the way such time doesn't seem so long to me; may it be that someone skipped Combi Plan's directions where it is explained how air has to be expelled in order for the chemicals to pour in quickly?

 

[tim48v]

BTW, we now have 3D printed holders for quarter plate and 9x12:
Dead Link Removed

SP-445 because it only uses 16oz of fluid for 4 sheets. A nice side bonus turned to be that it is the only 4x5 developing tank that could accommodate glass plates as well.

 

[GRAYnomad]

I made my own dip n dunk tanks. No documentation now but a friend took the idea and made some improvements. Here's a link to his description.

https://davidhoulder.com/photography/my-4x5-tanks

 

[pcyco]

I use kodak hangers. In kitchentanks with d76. I have to work in the dark with a talking-timer but thats no problem for me.

 

[norm123]

I tried many method. I prefer the SP-445. For me, MOD 54 doesn't work. Sheets always fall. Trays, many times with scratchs. Yankee, too much solution. I didn't try Taco method. SP-445 is my way.

 

[tonyowen]

Has anyone tried the taco method with rotary processing?
I have a Jobo 2500 tank and 2509 reel, but I wonder if the taco method would work using the 2500 tank and manual rotation on roller base with the recommended 270ml of developer.
regards
Tony

 

[Joe Washington]

freestyle in california had a new tank last year which i have used. holds for sheets at a time and uses less chemical than the patterson 6 sheet holders. also holds them in place better than the patterson holder, which i have found the agitation causes them to slip a bit

 

[tim48v]

Are you talking about our SP-445? https://www.freestylephoto.biz/445100-SP-445-4x5-Developing-Tank-with-Two-Holders

freestyle in california had a new tank last year which i have used. holds for sheets at a time and uses less chemical than the patterson 6 sheet holders. also holds them in place better than the patterson holder, which i have found the agitation causes them to slip a bit

 

[Michael Firstlight]

Of course besides a Jobo processor there is the Mercedes of table-top processors - a Phototherm Sidekick SK-4 or SK-8 - fully automatic end-to-end, no water hookup, no pre-heat, self-cleaning....ideal for any sort of volume and even better if you can get your hands on the larger 8-reel tank as well as 4x5 inserts (each holder can load four 4x5 sheets). I picked up a used Sidekick 8 for several hundred with two four-reel and two eight reel drums and two 4x5 inserts and had the unit fully rebuilt like new to a Super Sidekick 8. These units still pop up on eBay regularly but the main service/tech left Phototherm but might still be doing work on them (most parts are still available for these units as well from Phototherm).

 

[Marc Estalella]

I tried many method. I prefer the SP-445. For me, MOD 54 doesn't work. Sheets always fall. Trays, many times with scratchs. Yankee, too much solution. I didn't try Taco method. SP-445 is my way.

I hope mine works. I just bought it to develop b&w at home...

 

[138S]

Hi,

I was curious what people have found to be the most effective and convenient way to develop 4x5 sheet film. I currently use the tray method but have been looking at the SP-445 and curious if it's worth the upgrade. Are there any other methods that people think are even better like MOD45 or any other tanks? thanks!

YMMV, but trays are difficult to beat, specially for a moderated amount of sheets. Method can be perfected in several ways.

First, you may use an old paper safe so you have a daylight system.

Second, when development done, you close lights, you open the paper safe,you move the sheet or sheets to the stop bath tray and after some 20s you may open lights.

Third, you may hot glue some plastic separators (some sticks) in the paper safe or ttray to develop some 4 sheets in a 8x10 paper safe. Or you may use sterelization mesh 4x5 trays to keep the sheets separated in the 8x10 tray, in that case you move the 4x5 tray to the stop bath with the sheet inside...

Fourth, processing is pipelined, when your sheets are in the stop bath yet and you openned lights, you can start developing the other sheets while the other sheets are in the fixer or being washed, also you may use two paper safes to make 8 sheets at the same time, but with a single paper safe you may process 30 4x5 sheets in just an hour.

Fiveth: In the paper safe with separators, you may process different sheets with different times, as you may move individual sheets to the stop bath at different moments, may be different N-/+ or sheets can be of different films.

Or even better, get the Stearman Press SP-810 8x10" that makes 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10: the total perfection for tray development.

An advantage of trays is that you maty reduce agitation to get highlight compensation, and in that situation having the film horizontal is less prone to bromide drags, as gravity does not help bromide to fall. With trays develop the film with the emulsion side up.

 

[Maris]

I use a 4 place "slosher" with random agitation in 8x10 trays. Development is at room temperature with time control by Talking-Timer. Since nothing touches the emulsion side except liquid and air I never see scratches. The only possible challenge is working in absolute darkness for hours if there are lot of negatives to develop. I'm used to it and the darkroom stereo keeps me entertained.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

I send mine to a lab in California. Simple. Consistent. No complaints from the missus.

 

[Rick A]

I use a Unicolor drum on a self reversing motor base, 4 sheets of film with 8 ounces of chems.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I've recently gotten a Yankee Agitank. Can't say for certain about results (I've processed one batch of long-expired 9x12 film that spent thirteen years or so in the plate holders, in Dektol that I mixed in 2005), but I've got some film I need to process, and just mixed a fresh batch of XTOL to start replenishment, so I don't have to care how much the big tank needs. I'll probably process a few sheets this weekend. In the past, I've tried trays (nice development, except for the scratches from the corners of the sheets), and settled on homemade daylight tube tanks made from ABS drain pipe. Also needed a lot of liquid, but I used them with Parodinal, which is almost free. The Agitank seems well suited for almost-free developers like Parodinal or ones I won't discard after a single use, like replenished XTOL. Partial tanks won't make me feel guilty for wasting developer, either -- just replenish for the actual amount of film processed.

 

[138S]

I send mine to a lab in California. Simple. Consistent. No complaints from the missus.

This is nice for most of the shots, specially with rolls, in LF, as we can process individual sheets, we may want a very custom development that a Lab is not to do, or it may be faster to explain it to the lab than DIY.

If just scanning this has less importance as we bend the curve in Photoshop like we want, but if wanting to craft an optical print in the darkroom then the thing may be different, it can be very difficult to print our visualization from a complex scene if our processing is not well customized for it.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

This is nice for most of the shots, specially with rolls, in LF, as we can process individual sheets, we may want a very custom development that a Lab is not to do, or it may be faster to explain it to the lab than DIY.

If just scanning this has less importance as we bend the curve in Photoshop like we want, but if wanting to craft an optical print in the darkroom then the thing may be different, it can be very difficult to print our visualization from a complex scene if our processing is not well customized for it.

They push and pull 1 or 2 stops at another $2 per sheet over the cost per sheet of $3.50. I have them process normal because I don't use the zone system. Most pro labs push and pull. One lab I know in NYC normally uses Xtol but will replace the processing chemicals with a $50 surcharge. The North Coast Photo place I use in California uses a D76 substitute. (Clayton F76+).

The one thing I don't like is that I sometimes get clip marks on the negative where they hang them. I don;t know if that's normal but I'm going to try another lab that is opening up again from the virus to see if they do a better job. The labs I use ship them flat in plastic sleeves and are pretty clean. I also do 120 6x7 medium format with them and they ship them in a single plastic sheet with the film cut 3+3+2+2 images. Sometimes I get contact sheets. I've also done Velvia roll film with them and am satisfied. Work is consistent. I'm currently shooting Velvia 50 in 4x5. So we'll see how they handle those. Besides not having the space for my own darkroom, I really don;t shoot enough to warrant it. Turn around time by mail is around a week or ten days. YOu can pay for priority processing if you're in a rush.