Alan Edward Klein
Allowing Ads
Another Combi-plan user here, but I also have the Mod54 and the SP-445 though I haven't used them yet. I will likely try the SP445 before the Mod54, but not sure when.
I currently use a SP-445, and mostly find it easy to use. My complaints are filling is slow and slightly irregular (I sometimes have to agitate the tank a little during filling otherwise the chemistry level looks higher than it is), leaks (minor, but do it over a sink), and the difficulty removing the lid.
I have been developing smaller sheets (2.25x3.25 and 6.5x9) using 20th Century quick load holders. I found them very easy to use, with good results (they fit in Patterson tanks, so are as well sealed as your Patterson is in other contexts.). So I bought the 4x5 version, which develops 6 sheets in the 1l Patterson 3 tank. I haven’t used it yet, but if it’s anything like their smaller ones, it will be pretty easy to use.
https://20thcenturycamera.com/collections/film-reels?page=1
Good Morning, JA,
My favorite method, by far, is rotary processing. Four sheets in an 8 x 10 drum (Chromega or Unicolor) require minimal quantities of solution, can be done in room light, and should result in very even development. Just be sure than any splines and/or spacers are included with a drum to keep the individual sheets separated.
I have also used the SP-445 tank with excellent results. It's not hard to load, but the solution amounts are greater.
Konical
I've not developed yet as I've only shot my first sheets but I did get a Yankee slosher, took one look at it and splurged for a SP-445 which I'm waiting for. Yankee slosh-o-matic never stood a chance.
I'd heard terrible things about the Yankee Agitank, too. Bad enough that I built myself a set of developing tubes (including a light trap fill/drain neck with cap) out of plastic drain pipe.
There are problems with tube development, though (BTZS notwithstanding): it takes a lot of solution if you don't have a setup where you can prefill and roll agitate like BTZS does, is slow to fill and drain (requiring long development times to avoid unevenness), can scratch either inserting or removing the film, and there's a strong tendency to retain antihalation dye on the base side (enough so that I'd taken to fixing in a tray, opening the tubes after stop bath).
With the price of the Yankee tank, I gave it a try -- and it works fine. It fills very quickly if you don't (as I did on my first try) attempt to pour from a small-necked bottle, and drains as fast, it agitates nicely by sliding back and forth (Kodak method) or by tipping to one end and then the other, can be used for stand or semi-stand processing, holds anywhere from one to a dozen sheets, and did I mention it's only about $35 new, often less than that on eBay? If you're a real stickler for uniform development start, it can even be prefilled and the loaded film carrier dropped in, as with most other daylight tank systems (plastic or stainless). It's cheap enough to even have three and treat them like a dip & dunk line.
"I've not developed yet as I've only shot my first sheets but I did get a Yankee slosher, took one look at it and splurged for a SP-445 which I'm waiting for. Yankee slosh-o-matic never stood a chance."
Good Afternoon, Cholenpot,
I have a Yankee I bought at least four decades ago. I used it a few times, but soon put it in storage. You will probably be satisfied with the SP-445; I have found that it works very well, although using an 8 × 10 color processing tube takes a smaller amount of processing solution. One possibility I've considered is doing a little modification of the Yankee and turning it into a film-washer. I just never seem to get around to it.
Konical
Good idea about a film washer. I'm glad something like the SP-445 is around or I'd be up a creek.
I just stick one end of my Paterson film washer tube into the fill side and let it run. It works pretty well like that.
I'd heard terrible things about the Yankee Agitank, too. Bad enough that I built myself a set of developing tubes (including a light trap fill/drain neck with cap) out of plastic drain pipe.
There are problems with tube development, though (BTZS notwithstanding): it takes a lot of solution if you don't have a setup where you can prefill and roll agitate like BTZS does, is slow to fill and drain (requiring long development times to avoid unevenness), can scratch either inserting or removing the film, and there's a strong tendency to retain antihalation dye on the base side (enough so that I'd taken to fixing in a tray, opening the tubes after stop bath).
With the price of the Yankee tank, I gave it a try -- and it works fine. It fills very quickly if you don't (as I did on my first try) attempt to pour from a small-necked bottle, and drains as fast, it agitates nicely by sliding back and forth (Kodak method) or by tipping to one end and then the other, can be used for stand or semi-stand processing, holds anywhere from one to a dozen sheets, and did I mention it's only about $35 new, often less than that on eBay? If you're a real stickler for uniform development start, it can even be prefilled and the loaded film carrier dropped in, as with most other daylight tank systems (plastic or stainless). It's cheap enough to even have three and treat them like a dip & dunk line.
That is one of the best things about using replenished chemicals.I just can't bear with using 55oz for 3-4 sheets of film. It insults me.
That is one of the best things about using replenished chemicals.
Whether you use 55 oz, or 475 ml, it all just goes back into the bottle to be used again, less a little bit to make room for the replenisher.
I just can't bear with using 55oz for 3-4 sheets of film. It insults me.
Yes, you should always pull the film from the tubes when going into the fixer. Some film's backing takes longer to remove, like TMY-2. Pre-soaking in a tray of water, before sticking in the tubes for development, helps for these types of films.
There are two situations in which that's not a problem: replenished developer (I use the same amount of replenishment stock for 4 sheets in my Yankee as I would in an SP-445), or a developer that's almost free (like Parodinal at high dilution -- fifteen or twenty cents for a full Yankee tank). Coincidentally, I started using Xtol replenished the same week I got my Agitank.
If I'm going to presoak film, in the dark, I may as well tray develop. The whole point of the tube construction (which I used to use regularly, BTW) was to be able to do the liquid work in the light. I've never done well with tray development of sheet film; if they'd cut it with rounded corners, I'd probably be more confident on that front, but I've scratched hell out of a negative I was very fond of, developing it in trays with three others. I've read up on the technique half a dozen times, and I still can't picture how anyone can handle 8-12 sheets, shuffling once a minute, in a tray, in the dark, plus stop bath and fixer, without scraping off half the emulsion.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?