4x5 Budget Lens
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I've had good results with a 203mm Ektar. Older lens, very small and light and you could probably find a clean one for between $100-$200. Good sharpness but not too sharp for portraits, like some modern lenses can be.
Here's a link to reviews of some other lenses: http://www.largeformatphotography.info/portrait-lenses/
Here's a link to reviews of some other lenses: http://www.largeformatphotography.info/portrait-lenses/
Many of the Fuji 210's seem to sell at moderate prices and they can be quite good and not hard to source.
It wasn't made for Calumet, it was just re-badged for them to sell under their own name. Rodenstock sold these Geronars as budget lenses themselves, they are Cooke Triplet in design and ideal as portrait lenses particularly at wider apertures,
The Schneider 210mm f6.1 Xenar's are another to look out for, these were excellent small lenses, the last Tessar type lenses Schneider made and also the best in terms of overall sharpness, again sold as budget lenses. An alternative is the Congo/Osaka 210mm f6.3 Commercial supposedly a clone of the Kodak Commercial Ektar another Tessar type lens.
As already mentioned the 203mm f7.7 Ektar's are another option, very sharp lenses designed for use to 1:1 as well so superb for close upwork. They were made in the US and also the UK, US versions are usually in a Supermatic shutter but very late ones were in a Graphic Compur #1, UK versions were in an Epsilon, later a Prontor SVS and finally a Compur - all #0 sized shutters, their lens barrels say Mount 370.
All these are quite small light lenses with plenty of coverage, as they were designed for 7x5, and ideal for back-packing, and can be found at quite reasonable prices.
If weight and size aren't an issue the 210mm f5.6 Symmar S is a great lens.
As your a Subscriber a Wanted advert here might be a good idea. it's worked well for me various times
Ian
Caltars were mostly German lenses, and most, as you pointed out were Rodagons, usually identical except for nameplate to their more exalted 'cousins". That said, the Caltars can be great bargains.
The Rodagons are enlarger lenses Mike
Calumet also sold re-branded Schneider lenses, the Caltar-S II is a rebadged Symmar S, and the Caltar Pro Series were re.badged Xenar lens. The Caltar II-N is a rebadged Rodenstock Sironar-N
Ian
Watching this thread closely because I have my first 4x5 on the way but no lens!
Well, that’s not completely true. I have a very old Kodak Anastigmat 170mm f/7.7 that will work perfectly fine on 4x5, but it’s in an ancient ball bearing shutter that basically only gives one speed (not sure what that speed is though), plus B and T.
If you’re looking for a VERY budget lens (under $30) look at these Anastigmats. Apparently they’re the same formulas as the Ektars, just uncoated and in old shutters. I’ve used mine on my 2x3 Busch Pressman without any complaints. I just want to know what shutter speed I’m shooting at (although all my exposures have been long enough that I’ve only used B)
Well, that’s not completely true. I have a very old Kodak Anastigmat 170mm f/7.7 that will work perfectly fine on 4x5, but it’s in an ancient ball bearing shutter that basically only gives one speed (not sure what that speed is though), plus B and T.
If you’re looking for a VERY budget lens (under $30) look at these Anastigmats. Apparently they’re the same formulas as the Ektars, just uncoated and in old shutters. I’ve used mine on my 2x3 Busch Pressman without any complaints. I just want to know what shutter speed I’m shooting at (although all my exposures have been long enough that I’ve only used B)
Watching this thread closely because I have my first 4x5 on the way but no lens!
Well, that’s not completely true. I have a very old Kodak Anastigmat 170mm f/7.7 that will work perfectly fine on 4x5, but it’s in an ancient ball bearing shutter that basically only gives one speed (not sure what that speed is though), plus B and T.
If you’re looking for a VERY budget lens (under $30) look at these Anastigmats. Apparently they’re the same formulas as the Ektars, just uncoated and in old shutters. I’ve used mine on my 2x3 Busch Pressman without any complaints. I just want to know what shutter speed I’m shooting at (although all my exposures have been long enough that I’ve only used B)
Your 170mm f7.7 Kodak Anastigmat will or rather should fit a newer Wollensack shutter like an Alpax/Rapax, I have one in a Velosto shutter (UK name for the Optimo shutter). I have a "new" Rapax #2 shutter which has no aperture scale and never used on a camera/lens board and the cells drop in perfectly, it'll also fit a Betax #2 I repaired.
The downside to this particular 170mm Anastigmat, and the 203mm/8" Anastigmats are they aren't coated and being Dialyte lenses have 6 internal air/glass surfaces so are quite low in contrast. The coated version ot the 203mm/8" the f7.7 Ektar is a huge improvement in terms of contrast.
I have quite a few US shutters mainly Alpax/Rapax they are quite easy to find on Ebay and none were expensive. It's worth a look.
Ian
Another vote for the 203mm Ektar f7.7
Excellent optics and when shot wide open, the results can be exquisite.
This image was shot with the 203mm Ektar lens, stopped down one stop from wide open: https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/903/40313510280_1d65fe3b02_b.jpg
PS: this is from a wet plate collodion negative.
Excellent optics and when shot wide open, the results can be exquisite.
This image was shot with the 203mm Ektar lens, stopped down one stop from wide open: https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/903/40313510280_1d65fe3b02_b.jpg
PS: this is from a wet plate collodion negative.
I have two 203mm/8" Ektars one British in a #0 Prontor SVS shutter, the other a US a very rare late version in a Compur #1, fantastic lenses but bit too sharp wide open in my opinion for portraits, but then it depends what you are after.
I'll admit t having quite a lot of choice I have an 8" Petzval, a few RR's around 8", a 210 Symma S, a Congo/Osaka Commercial, a Geronar, a 1920 CZ f4.5 Tessar, all very capable lenses. All excellent stopped right down but very different at wider apertures.
So for a portrait lens think wider apertures and what you want
Ian
I was on my first cup of coffee, and we were up late in a very bad storm watch.The Rodagons are enlarger lenses Mike
Calumet also sold re-branded Schneider lenses, the Caltar-S II is a rebadged Symmar S, and the Caltar Pro Series were re.badged Xenar lens. The Caltar II-N is a rebadged Rodenstock Sironar-N
Ian
Weren't some earlier Caltar's sourced from Burke & James and other US makers?
If you are good with small tools then a Kodak Ball Bearing shutter is not difficult to service.
A speed selector; B trip lever; C bulb & time levers; D main operating lever; E blade controller lug; F mount ring / main plate retainer.
Pressing B operates C and D so that D engages E and pulls the blades open then releases them by travel operation of D and spring tension.
Front cover retaining screws are on the outer edge of the shutter. All internal springs and levers have to be removed before removing screws F. There are 5 - 1/16 (.0625 inch) diameter ball bearings and 5 arced spacers under the rear mount ring plate along the collar of the shutter case.
Flush with a good solvent, coat the bearings and spacers with light weight grease (trace), the recess they sit in, and a pin point drop of oil on the lever pivots.
This thread discusses shutter speed testing https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/using-apps-to-measure-shutter-speeds.159996/
Your shutter's speed is likely 1/20 - 1/25.
Burke & James bought cells from many manufacturers, usually their seconds, and paired them up. Sometimes you get a really good lens and other times you don't.
Didn’t know this. Might have to keep my eye out for an inexpensive Rapax 2.
I’ve done some light repairs on bodies and lenses, and that seems like it would be within my capabilities, but I don’t have any grease or oil. Not sure if this old shutter would be worth the expense for those. B and T still work so it would be great for plates!
https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-...pID=31yjQtuTSnL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Flow-Lub...e=UTF8&qid=1527991242&sr=1-7&keywords=triflow
likely available locally.
The rear retainer plate can be removed If the main plate is held in position as the shutter blades and controller lay on it and will fall out of position if its allowed to drop down or tilt.
https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Flow-Lub...e=UTF8&qid=1527991242&sr=1-7&keywords=triflow
likely available locally.
The rear retainer plate can be removed If the main plate is held in position as the shutter blades and controller lay on it and will fall out of position if its allowed to drop down or tilt.
Pretty reasonably priced. Both of those together are about how much I paid for this lens!
Like I said, can’t get more budget 4x5 lens than these.
Like I said, can’t get more budget 4x5 lens than these.
I thought the first 1960's Caltar lenses were Ilex-Caltar, then the Caltar HR lenses were rebadged Topcon/Horseman, they switch when manufacturers ceased making LF lenses, finally rebadging Schneider and Rodenstok lenses, I'm not sure in which order.
Calumet are still trading here in the UK and Europe it was only the US side that ceased.
Ian
According to A Lens Collector's Vade Mecum Ilex lens were supplied from April, 1965. They were Series 1, Series 1b, Series 2 Wide Field Caltar, Series 3. Rodenstock made their product range for private label in the early 1970's. Some were sold as Ilex Paragon; by Burke and James as Acutar, Acuton, Acugon; Burleigh Brooks as Acutessar, Acusymmetrigon, Acuveriwide; Caltar sold them as Caltar 11, Caltar 11 Symmetrical, Caltar 11 Wide Angle. Ilex supposedly closed in 1981 as did Burleigh Brooks. Then Schneider became the supplier. Names used are Caulment Caltar Pro Series, Calumet Caltar W, Caulment Caktar S11. Ilex-Caltar was used as late as 1996. Caltar Scientific Inc. 1590 Touhy Ave, Elk Grove, IL 60007 USA.
They comment that other suppliers may have been used.
You can easily find a 210mm Rodenstock, Schneider, Nikon or Fuji with functioning, accurate shutters for under $200. They are interchangeable. Beware, they are sharp. You might want something that doesn't perform as well for portraits.
Fuji W 180mm f/5.6 - I have had mine for years and use it mostly on my 5X7 camera. Looks like they can be had for about $150 give or take.
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look for a wollensak 203 i, i had one for years, its a small profile lens that is a workhorse
not expensive at all.
not expensive at all.
I have or have had most of the lenses mentioned above. Still have a great 203mm 7.7 Ektar that does deliver. One thing I have noticed with mine is that it is actually the best (sharpest) below f16. Going to f22 and smaller it gets a little less, but it's still way better than most lenses. Ian is correct that the 210mm f5.6 Symmar-S is an outstanding lens for the money, but mine is a little on the heavy side for a 4X5 field camera. Now, for the "best bang for the buck" lenses and this is just my opinion. FUJI! The Fujinon 150mm f5.6 is dirt cheap and very good. There are several versions so do your research. I all versions of this lens and they are all darn good. Oh, and besides being cheap they are also tiny. On my field 4X5 I use a Fuji 210mm f5.6 "L" lens and the little 150mm Fuji's a lot.. It's small for a 210mm, very sharp, pretty good coverage and usually cheap. The Fuji 210mm "L" lens is a Tessar design and works very good for portraits at wider apertures, but when stopped down it's pin-sharp. Those are just my picks for starter/cheap lenses with the Fuji 150mm as the best bang for the buck. JohnW
I picked up a Fuji 180mm lens from a Japanese Seller on Ebay a while back. It only cost me $160 including shipping. It is sharp and contrasty. Some like that for portraits, especially of young models.
I use a 14" Kodak Commercial Ektar on my 8x10. The Ektars are sharp but not clinically so. They make great portrait lenses in my opinion. That 203mm Ektar that many are recommending is supposed to be really nice for 4x5 portraiture.
Some really like the Ilex Paragon lenses for portraits. I've never tried one but they are inexpensive and I've seen nice portraits on the web taken with them.
Google images from recommended lenses. You can also look at Flickr for images taken with specific lenses. Also look at the image section at Large Format Photography Forum. There is a portrait thread there for each month. Good stuff!
I use a 14" Kodak Commercial Ektar on my 8x10. The Ektars are sharp but not clinically so. They make great portrait lenses in my opinion. That 203mm Ektar that many are recommending is supposed to be really nice for 4x5 portraiture.
Some really like the Ilex Paragon lenses for portraits. I've never tried one but they are inexpensive and I've seen nice portraits on the web taken with them.
Google images from recommended lenses. You can also look at Flickr for images taken with specific lenses. Also look at the image section at Large Format Photography Forum. There is a portrait thread there for each month. Good stuff!
Commercial Ektars are Tessar type lenses so don't expect amazing sharpness at wider apertures, usually best at f22, adequate ar f16,but we don't always want super sharp corner to corner for portraits.
Ian
Ian
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