4x5/612 homebrew wide angle camera (with Schneider 65/8)

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MattiS

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Some time ago I got a Schneider Super Angulon 65/8 which works just on 4x5 and fine on 612. The first idea was to use the lens for a conversion of a folder with 612 only in mind.

Then I found the Sinar Handy camera concept. This would also allow some lens rise/fall for 612. So I started collecting parts. Recently I got the last missing part - a spare Sinar F standard - I didn`t want to cannibalize my complete Sinar F.

The parts:
- Sinar F standard
- Sinar back 612 Horseman film back
- Sinar lens board
- Schneider Super Angulon 65/8
- focusing helicoid M65 (18-31mm) plus flanges
- multiplex board 12mm, 9mm
- thumb screws, stainless steel bar for the locking mechanism

So first I dismantled the parts from the standard that I don´t need for my project.

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The F back and my 612 film holder fit on the standard, so the rear end is done before the work starts... .

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Work is at the front end. Luckily the lens board can be mounted every 90 degrees in the standard which means that I only need lens movement in one direction. If I need the movement in another direction I simply turn and remount the lens board accordingly.

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Due to the lack of bellows with only one standard the lens is focused by a M65 focusing helicoid. The minimum length of the focusing helicoid is about 18mm, fully expanded app. 31mm. The inner diameter is 61mm, the Schneider fits nicely into it. A M65 lens flange and body flange, some pieces of multiplex board and I was ready to start.

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MattiS

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Machining the Sinar lens board
With the Sinar lens board and the back mounted in one Standard the distance between focusing plane and the front of the lens board is app. 21mm. So I made a sketch to find the app. dimensions of the hole in the lens board for the 65/8 on 4x5 (app. 90mmx72mm). I added extra 10mm in the direction of the lens movement for 612 use. Time to start the milling machine...


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MattiS

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Machining the lens board slider and spacer board
The lens board slider is made of 9mm thick multiplex board, cut to 100mmx160mm. I milled a small recess to center the body flange to the 65mm center hole, which I machined at the same time.
The spacer board (between Sinar lens board and lens board slider) is made of 12mm thick multiplex board, cut to 135mm square.


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MattiS

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I know your Norma Handy - it was one of the main inspirations for my project.
 

BradS

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Super cool! both of 'em. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to seeing some photos.
 
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MattiS

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Back in my cave - today I made some progress.
The Sinar lens board and sparer board are clamped together, drilled and connected with M3 screws. The Nuts are pressed in the recess and secured with Stabilit Express (they will be unaccessible after mounting the sliding rails).

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Slider rail are held in position with wooden pegs.

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Locking of the slider will be done with pieces of flat bar 20x3, 100mm long & thumb screws M4, both stainless steel. I need end stops for the slider, I think... .

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Next will be smoothing edges, staining, painting, polishing metal and all the small bits and things (handle, tripod thread, coldshoe, strap lugs).
 

Dan Fromm

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Sweet!
612 is a great format, why spend oodles on a brand camera when you can make one yourself.
Great work, enjoy.
Well, the hard part isn't the box, it is the roll holder. And these days 4x5 monorails can be had for somewhat less than an oodle.

That said, there's no denying the joy of tinkering.
 

Nokton48

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Norma Handy Stuff 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr

I'm not interested in 612, but it is kewl that you added PC which I would sometimes no doubt crave. I shooting the entire sheet. It covers 4x5" when focused hyperfocally, but really shines with 9x12cm which is a bit smaller sheet, I am suspecting. I have both sizes in stock, presently running 4x5".

My approach to this is different from others here; It's absolutely ALL about the box. It was terribly important to me to build the Norma camera that was never introduced; The Sinar Handy came along with the introduction of the F, C, and P. I have been acquiring Norma stuff cheaply since I was age 25. So this camera completes my Norma collection (for now!)

The conical Norma board, with the 65mm Helical, came to me for cheap, so why not build the missing link? Lots of tinkering fun, it's all about the box.

BTW I went out this morning with the idea of exposing six sheets of HP5+ in a 4x5 Graphmatic. I love how the camera handles, MAN is it Handy. They certainly named in right. I exposed three sheets of three different subjects, in my travels around the city. I think I will process the HP5+ in PMK+ as it worked for me 25 years ago. I did add extra exposure as Pyro causes speed decrease in my past endeavors.
 
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Nokton48

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It's like using a giant Leica with a 21mm F3.4 Super Angulon, but on steroids
smile.gif

Darkened corners are about the same and I like those. I can always dodge the corners.

Fun to shoot with. Anybody here use Acufine with HP5+ or/and TMAX400?

I have some new to me ideas about what to do with this thing.
 
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MattiS

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Work is slowly in progress - a tripod mount milled from a block of aluminium, stain and paintwork, small scale for the lens movement (needs to be fixed with pins), Handle, bulls eye level and coldshoe mount are next on my list.


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jtk

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Beautiful! I traded my way into a crude particle board + graflok + 58 Grandagon...immediately paid a months rent with that ...wish I still had it...the 58 has probably succumbed to Rodenstok disease by now, 30yrs later. Didn't vignette on 4x5.
 
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MattiS

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Today the bull’s eye level arrived. I leveled the standard first and mounted the level in a slightly oversized hole filled partially with epoxy. So I was able to level the level on the leveled standard... or so...


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MattiS

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The cold shoe mount arrived today. incredible how the supply of bits´n things works even these days.

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MattiS

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Yesterday I made some test shots. At the moment I can just focus to infinity, but I would feel more comfortable if I could adjust focus a little bit over infinity. Maybe I´ll do a bit of machining of the lens flange later this day.


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MattiS

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Yes, the extra 1mm focusing travel in the direction of infinity makes all the difference. I also worked a bit with the Dremel to drill holes for small nails to fix the scale and prevent the locking bars from turning/falling off. The slot in the slider and the screw stud in the right locking bar prevent the slider from falling off the camera when not locked.


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