40 years old Exakta not working exakta ?

[Shinsakuto]

I want to use this ridiculous thing called an over 40 years old Exakta vx 500 cause i really want to photograph, I have 0 cash, and i have 2 alright lenses. But this thing seems not to be functional. The shutter mechanism doesn't work properly. At the higher speeds no light passes through and at the lower speeds the motion wont even complete unless i let go of the trigger again. So.. should I screw this thing up, or try to only clean and unstuck it from the outside ? What are my options here ? I'd be grateful if anyone could give me some advice. Cheerio !

 

[Fall]

I have a bit of experience with these old exaktas, and I can tell you they're complicated. I will go ahead and tell you that your camera is going to need a very intense repair. Something more then a general cleaning, and not something to try with no experience. Now, what you could do if you want to photograph, is sell the body on ebay as a parts camera, and sell the lenses as well. To repair this camera will cost you around 300-400 US, and I would recommend Miles Upton. However, if this is a family heirloom I would not sell it, as if you get really involved in photography you will eventually regret it. Exaktas are great cameras, and once repaired I would say it will last for many more generations. If you have experience with in depth repairs, you could pick up Miles Upton's book on exakta repair, and you could attempt a repair. You can pick up a good kodak retinette, nikon fe, nikormat, or a an old tlr for 50-60 US. I would like to help you. Maybe you could post in the forums for a trade, for another camera, for your parts camera, and lenses. If it's all you got, you could put a cable release on it, and shoot at bulb in dim light, but exaktas are notorious for their shutter curtains to be filled with pinholes. Let me know what lenses you have, and I could price them for you.

 

[railwayman3]

I'd first recheck the shutter at all the set speeds, just to make quite sure that it really isn't functional. Look through the shutter at a bright light to check the fastest speeds (just looking at the shutter when operating wouldn't necessarily allow you to judge properly). And remember that the "slowest" setting, i.e. "B" allows the shutter to stay open while you keep the trigger pressed, for long exposures (apologies if you knew that).

If the shutter isn't functional, and (like me) you're not familiar with repairing cameras, you will have to think about a proper professional repair, or getting another cheap Exakta (or Exakta-fit) body. But check that any s/h body is fully functional and preferably with some warranty, as I've heard that Exakta shutters could be a bit erratic. But OTOH one has to expect that any 40 y.o. camera will be showing-its-age a bit, and will be well overdue for a CLA.

I'd not try any cleaning or unsticking myself, other than anything obvious like removing a sliver of torn film.

(And welcome to APUG).

 

[Shinsakuto]

Hey. At first thank you very much for such a fast ,nice and good answer. Well im Broke , plus I'm german so trading in this Forum is sadly no option as well. I'm relatively good in fixing stuff if its doable with a screwdriver and some soldering but that book wont be for free either but maybe ill just look around the internet what i can find out about fixing it. But i totally would like to hear your opinion on the lenses anyway. Well ... the one is in pretty bad shape ... it was the one just on the body , didn't even have a hood on and the thread for filters or a lens hood has a ditch and is not perfectly round, though i could get the lens hood on it fairly easy. Its a 35mm 1:2,8 Schneider-Kreuznach Curtagon and theres also the number 10 046 708 on it .. don't know if that means something. The others are in good condition id say. The first says " Jena S 1:4 f=135 nr.6243063". And i have another one which is clearly not for this camera as it has a different mount. it says "Tokina 28-70mm 1:2.8-4.3 diameter 62" . Thanks again and cheerio

 

[Shinsakuto]

I know a lot about dslr's or Photography in general but I'm really new to the analog machines. so there is a wheel under the body with different light situations on it like daylight or night but it doesn't seem to have any function at all which confuses me. And I didn't know that b meant holding as I could "hold it" with a closed shutter on 125 for example as well as it is not working properly, so no need to apologize. I think for the body i will try to find out as much as i can about fixing it and if i think i could have a shot ill just take it. 30 bucks or 40 is not that much of a loss when its not working anyway and it can stand on the shelf just as well after i disassembled the shit out of it. Thanks again guys. This forum is great. Cheerio, Aaron.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Hello Aaron,

Exaktas are nice cameras, but I would not recommend one as your introduction to film photography - they don't have the conveniences we are used to and can be complex to operate. The proper use of the fast-speed and slow-speed dials isn't obvious just by looking.

For the moment, just check the camera out using speeds like 1/100, open the back, and trip the shutter to be sure it is opening. Maybe take the lens off just to simplify things. If the shutter trips but you can't see light, then the shutter curtains are staying capped - I don't know if that's an easy fix. Sometimes they will be fine at slow speeds like 1/25, but not at 1/1000.

Once you're comfortable with the basic operation, here is how the dials are used:


You have the main dial (with 1/1000-1/25, B, T) and the secondary dial with black and red numbers.

-- To use 1/1000, B, or T, just set it on the main dial; leave the secondary dial unwound.

-- To use 1/5sec to 12sec, set B on main dial; wind and set to black number on secondary dial

-- To use fixed delay before 1/1000-1/25, set speed on main dial; wind and set any red number on secondary dial

-- To use fixed delay before 1/5-6sec, set B on main dial; wind and select a red number on secondary dial

 

[Fall]

Could you perform a couple experiments for me?

1.test each of the shutter speeds starting at 1000, and tell me in as much detail as you can about what happens with each shutter speed.

2. shine a light through the camera with the lens removed in a dim room to look for pinholes.

3. on the b (bulb) setting, fire the shutter. Do that a couple times, and tell me what that function is like, and what the shutter sounds likes as it opens and closes.

If you could post a picture of the 135 jena I could tell you a little more. Is it in exakta mount? the Jena s sounds like a copy lens, if it is I can't really give you a value, if it's not a copy between it would between 50, and 80 US depending on the condition, that is if you want to sell. The curtagon is a great lens, between 90 and 120 US, again condition applies. Keep in mind both of these estimates are for lenses that function properly, and glass is reasonably good. If you decide to sell those lenses, make sure you list what the mount type is, and that exakta mount lenses can be used on a certain digital camera brand with an adapter. Someone should speak in, and tell you what this camera brand it, as I am not sure I remember, maybe canon.

 

[Shinsakuto]

Thats good to know but my camera has only one main dial. Plus again i have no options right now as I'am really broke but i like a challenge plus I know pretty much all the theory behind photography (Aperture, ISO, focal lenghts etc.), just everything i learned was in regard to digital cameras. I think ill get something for greasing and lens cleaning utilities tomorrow and try my luck very carefully repairing the camera. I will inform you about my progress then.

 

[Shinsakuto]

Hey Fall, At speed 500 and 250 (500 is fastest on this model) the shutter goes fast but the gap between the curtains is nearly 0. Below 250 the movement would not complete unless i let go of the trigger again. Just the same with b. I hold and the curtain stops, sometimes nearly at the start, sometimes the curtain would move very slowly then come to a standstill at about 80%. The sound when i let go of the trigger sounds pretty healthy i think , even though the loudest is of course just the mirror snapping back. The curtains seem to have no holes at all , look pretty good. I think the problem might just be no greasing in 40 Years and a lot of them on a dusty shelf and i hope I can fix it with careful and prepared work. For the lenses : I will definitely keep and use em as i love prime lenses and they have good focal lengths , given that i CAN use em. If i cant get the camera to work I will eventually buy a new one once i have some spare money and then i will evaluate if maybe a different camera body and different lenses in combination with selling these i got may have some advantages over getting another Exakta. But that would be a story for another time.

 

[gone]

Sell it on eBay. You have nothing but trouble there, and fixing an Exakta is not gonna happen. If it gets worse that it already is, or if you can't get it back together again, you will probably not be able to sell it for anything. No one will want it. At least now it sorta works.

After you sell it, buy something simple that is guaranteed to work. Photography costs money, even at the budget end. Cameras, lenses, films, developing, chemicals, printing paper. And more!

 

[summicron1]

I want to use this ridiculous thing called an over 40 years old Exakta vx 500 cause i really want to photograph, I have 0 cash, and i have 2 alright lenses. But this thing seems not to be functional. The shutter mechanism doesn't work properly. At the higher speeds no light passes through and at the lower speeds the motion wont even complete unless i let go of the trigger again. So.. should I screw this thing up, or try to only clean and unstuck it from the outside ? What are my options here ? I'd be grateful if anyone could give me some advice. Cheerio !

there's a guy selling an Exakta VX 500 for $70 over in classifieds right now. His works well, he says.

Not me. No connection, Just being helpful.

 

[Brett Rogers]

Last I heard Miles Upton wasn't taking on any more cameras for repair but you'd have to ask him directly. I shoot with a Varex IIa a bit, yes, very different devices, but also very beautiful, and capable of great results. Have got one going again including sorting slow speeds/timer speeds that a professional repairer had timed incorrectly. Yes they are complex, for sure, but also reliable if they have not been tampered with. It sounds like the VX500 in this case is doing what most decent quality cameras would do, decades after being made and likely not being used for some time. I would not be at all surprised if cleaning and lubricating the mechanism got it going well again. The problem is the camera is not a good prospect for a beginner in camera repair. It would be better to keep it for later on and buy a cheap Japanese SLR or RF for actually making images.
Cheers
Brett

 

[Xmas]

At 1/250 you only get a vestigial flash of light.
To check you need to fire the shutter looking at a strong light and compare the flash at the left and right hand side of the frame as similar and repeatable.
You don't need slow speeds unless you buy a tripod.
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/exakta.htm
Down load manual.
You can strip and repair a camera but you need to be careful and methodical
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
It is not unknown that people send me packages of bits.