I generally avoid Facebook -- too many things I don't like, too few I do. Its only advantage for a case like this is that no one has to go through owning, hosting, operating, and maintaining a forum. Its biggest disadvantage is Facebook's license agreement, which (to slightly oversimplify) gives them 100% ownership of anything posted there.
I know what you mean! Almost the only thing I do on FB is access this and a few other special interest groups. I think this one is viewable for anyone, so may still be a useful risk-free resource to take a weekly look at the new posts, as well as search it for anything useful historically, even if unable to post.
I second titrisol's advice - Thingiverse has a good number of useful photography-related STLs.
I guess you already know Thingiverse to find STLs?
My Thingiverse collections run to around a hundred Things already. I've even got a design of my own up there, a film slitter for 120 to 127/16mm or 3x16mm. Designed that while learning FreeCAD.
I could probably print stuff until the house fills up with PLA objects.
At present, I'm using Amazon Basics PLA and getting great results; just got a spool of Overture PETG to print stuff for my partner's aquarium, and the two spools of opaque black (from Atomic Filament) on the way for camera bodies. Also got a bunch of upgrade parts to install -- and still need to print a set of drag chains for the wires to the bed heater and X motor/hot end. I need to get a spool of flexible soon, so I can print new gaskets for my color print drums.
Unless you think you'll need the full 235mm width for future prints, that is.
Highly probable I'll want more than 200 mm X travel at some point. For instance, if I ever find a model (or manage to create one) for the broken inside door handle on my 2015 Fiesta, it's 9+ inches end to end, curved, and has mounting posts. I don't know how much space that direct drive mod loses, it might still work for that -- but I'm not making functional mods (yet), other than clipping the stop foot off the Z axis limit switch so I could get the hot end low enough to tram in the build plate.
That group is great! thanks for the recommendation
This sounds really cool. Please post pics of your creations when you can!It was suggested on the "What was your last photography related purchase?" thread that my acquisition of a 3D printer with intent to print (among other things) cameras and camera parts warranted the creation of an ongoing thread specific to this activity.
Seems like a sensible idea.
I've been wanting a 3D printer since they cost tens of thousands of dollars. Now you can get a pretty decent one (FDM, Fusion Deposited Material, aka filament type, user upgradable in many ways) for under $200 up front, plus filament. I happened into a sale on Amazon, and got my Creality Ender 3 for $165 with free shipping (they're normally right at $200, or upgraded versions -- newer computer hardware, mostly -- for up to $300+). I added $90+ for five one kilogram spools of various colors of filament, and was "out the door" for well under $300.
There's a learning curve to operating these machines, of course -- starting with the fact they come packed in a box only about six inches deep, for a machine that stands close to two feet tall when fully assembled (including the stock top mounting for the spool holder -- if you have a low workspace, you can change that location with user-printed parts, an ongoing theme in 3D printing). I knew this was coming, however (tax refund), so I'd gone ahead and installed a (free) 3D CAD program and a slicer (software that converts a 3D solid model into a tool path for the printer to deposit melted filament).
Assembly is supposed to take about two hours, and mine ran just about that -- nothing complicated, just a matter of screwing parts together and getting/keeping them correctly aligned, and adjusting a few parts for correct clearances. All the needed tools come in the box with the printer, and there are several excellent videos on YouTube showing and explaining the process for folks who need a little more visual help. A bunch more that cover necessary in-use adjustments and work-arounds for the limitations of the device.
In the end, though, it's a tool -- a tool for making plastic parts (in a number of different materials) to a computer model. I don't think it's a "digital" item, however, because cameras you can make with it will necessarily use film. Rather, it's a tool in the same category as a small lathe or milling machine: a device for making or modifying parts (some of which might be for cameras).
One of my long-term intentions with this is to design and build a proper frame counter for 3D printed 35mm cameras (pinhole or otherwise). The Brancopan has one, so I know it's possible. There will surely be other camera-related items as well -- a frame mask for 35mm film in a 6x7 film back (to help keep the film flat against the 220 pressure plate), along with a drop-in viewfinder mask for my RB67, viewfinder frames for this and that, and on and on...
This sounds really cool. Please post pics of your creations when you can!
I'm a product designer and make prototypes but I outsource everything. The prices for new 3D printers are shockingly low to me. It's a real game changer when tech like 3D printing is less expensive than a good lens. Power to the people!Will do. I need to print my film slitter as soon as I confirm I can get the magnets that will click it together in the size I made the pockets for.
FYI, both the "Overture" Black PETG and the Kodak black PETG (really?!?) are opaque by about the 2nd or 3rd layer at 0.2mm layer height.
Overall it is amazing how many things pass light through. 3D prints seem to be opaque but many times are not. Even the black filament passes light, as you have found out.
Other thing I would like to point out that there are many places where consumer grade 3D printer accuracy isn't enough for camera parts. It is good to understand if you're planning to buy printer and have crazy visions in your head.
Funny how you interpreted what I said completely backwards. Nobody prints anything with less than 3 layers, so for all intents and purposes, both filaments produce opaque parts-- I usually test mine with a 2300 lumen LED light.
Since I've been using a 3D printer for the past 7 years, I'd say I'm reasonably familiar with their limitations.
You got me wrong. I mean you have found ways to make things light proof and probably noticed also what isn't light proof. That is what i was referring to.
That writing was not directed to you but to others just to enlighten on things. I think new 3D printer owners & potential buyers have pretty high expectations. And this is not to diss 3D printing at all, it has it moments..
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