36-exposure SS reel problems

[moltogordo]

For whatever reason, I cannot load a 36 exposure Stainless reel without problems. I've never been able to. I use 20 exposure reels and 120 reels well, but almost always end up with touching areas with the 36s

I do use Paterson plastic reels, without a hitch, and often use them for 120, too, and have done so for the last 15 years I was doing darkroom work. So it might seem that the problem is solved. But I'd really like to use these larger reels but am flummoxed. Any suggestions?

It's really a psychological thing . . . it makes me feel inadequate!

PS - I'm dealing with it! No armchair shrinks!

 

[Gerald C Koch]

There is a handy device to help loading roll film. It is available for 35mm and 120 film. It consists of a curved metal plate which cups the film for you. The edges of the plate curl over to guide the film. You need not touch the film one it is put in the device. They only cost a few bucks and can be very helpful.

 

[MattKing]

You are showing your age when you refer to 20 exposure reels .

Stainless steel reels can be bent easily, and once bent, don't work well. Are you sure yours are un-damaged?

The trick I use is to load them in lots of small steps, and to push in and pull out the film slightly after each step. If the film moves easily each time, it will load properly. If it binds, just unroll it until it stops binding, and then re-commence loading.

 

[bdial]

As Matt says, 36 exp reels can be a little fragile. One drop on a concrete floor and it is very likely done for. Fatal bends can be very subtle.
Try a sacrificial roll and load it in the light. If that doesn't work out and you don't know the history of the reel, consider sending it to the metal recycler and buy a Hewes reel.
I was a little skeptical of their reputation before trying one, but they almost load themselves.

 

[walbergb]

What Matt & bdial said. +1 for Hewes reels. Not only are they easier to load, but they are more likely to withstand a drop.

 

[br549]

If a reel is bent the slightest bit it's not worth the trouble, I can't afford having something go wrong during film development.
I dropped a metal reel in the bin a couple of days ago as a matter of fact.
Kindermann reel loading devices work well. I use Kindermann and Hewes reels most often. The reel I binned was a generic brand that had made it into the mix.

 

[John Koehrer]

I roll the film onto the reel, Start it & set the reel on edge on the tabletop, put a slight curve in it & push the reel across the table. Your free hand just keeps the reel from wandering. If there's any misalignment you can feel it.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Once a roll of 35mm film kinks it becomes nearly impossible to load. However there is a trick. Turn the film around and load from the other end.

 

[Jim Jones]

Bent SS reels can usually be straightened. Measure the distance between the flanges. It should be constant everywhere. The flanges can be parallel and equidistant, and still not correctly aligned with each other. This is more difficult to correct, but it can be done. When experiencing difficulty in loading them, try loading a full length of scrap film in daylight and look for the edge of the film being forced tightly against the flange. This should pinpoint the problem.

 

[BobMarvin]

I too have always [for 50+ years] been unable to load 36 exp. 35 mm film onto SS reels. The only exceptions are Kindermann reels, with their accessory loader and turned up crank handle on the end of the reel–these work fine for me. Thankfully I have no problem with any brand of 120 reel (and I haven't used 35 mm for years).

 

[moltogordo]

Thanks guys. I'm practicing with a spent roll and did find one of my reels was badly bent. I just pitched it. An older Kindermann reel that I have seems to work fine . . . . if not, I'll try a Hewes reel.

I don't have any problems with my Paterson reels, and I don't feel like a dorque for using plastic reels, but I'd simply like to be able to use stainless steel tanks instead of the more cumbersome plastic ones. As I mentioned above, the 120 and 20 exposure reels are fine, but I never had the "knack" with the 36 exposure reels to be consistent. If I can't get it down, I'll try a loader again, which I used in the past with varying degrees of success.

 

[pbo]

I curve the film a little, so it slides inbetween the sides of the reel,

fix it into the center post (some reels have a push tab of sorts that I press with the index finger of the hand not holding film, keeping in mind to only bend the tab very little; Nikor and Hewes reels have the little pins to to which you anchor against sprocket holes on the film, Nikor has 3 pins and Hewes has 2, but I found Hewes easier to use),

then while still keeping that curve of the film, start rotating the reel while it's standing on the table. So the opposite of what others mentioned, but works well for me as long as I keep the curve in the film.

As soon as I figured that out with a dummy roll of film, loading in the darkness got much easier.

 

[pbo]

Also, to identify where the anchoring point is on the center post.. The point where the spiral ends on the outer edge of the reel can be easily felt with your fingers and the anchoring point is almost directly underneath that point for the reels that I've used.