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35mm Camera with Fastest Shutter Speed

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Where do I get one of these 35mm interchangeable film back devices?
I know of only one brand, the Rolleiflex 200F, 3001 and 3003. The backs were rectangle units, like small Hasselblad backs. The cameras did not sell well in the 1980s in the US market. Check out the article on Cameraquest. I recall reading that they suffered from electronic problems, and the NiCd battery packs have probably failed. Is anyone here on APUG using one of these Rolleis?
 
I know of only one brand, the Rolleiflex 200F, 3001 and 3003. The backs were rectangle units, like small Hasselblad backs. The cameras did not sell well in the 1980s in the US market. Check out the article on Cameraquest. I recall reading that they suffered from electronic problems, and the NiCd battery packs have probably failed. Is anyone here on APUG using one of these Rolleis?

In other words, no such thing.

Well I mean I can always walk around with a roll of slow film in my pocket, rewind, replace, take a few shots, rewind, replace, shoot 'till the frame I am up to with cap on, burn an extra frame, and continue. Or shoot APS. Or just shoot at 1/8000.
 
Where do I get one of these 35mm interchangeable film back devices?

Ah, exactly the point, One must either carry multiple 35mm camera bodies or move to medium or large format.
 
Ah, exactly the point, One must either carry multiple 35mm camera bodies or move to medium or large format.

And that's why I just got a few decent quality P&S cameras. It's nice hauling around a F3 with an MD and three lenses. It's also nice slipping an XA into a jacket pocket.
 
In other words, no such thing.
...

For all practical purposes, yes.

However, there was the Kodak Ektra:

https://www.cameraquest.com/ektra.htm

I'm sure there was another interchangeable back 35mm camera, though I don't recall what it was. The Rollei 3001, 3003 was a brilliant design that deserved much better market success.

One of these days I'll use the film knife on one of my Exaktas.
 
For all practical purposes, yes.

However, there was the Kodak Ektra:

https://www.cameraquest.com/ektra.htm

I'm sure there was another interchangeable back 35mm camera, though I don't recall what it was. The Rollei 3001, 3003 was a brilliant design that deserved much better market success.

One of these days I'll use the film knife on one of my Exaktas.

The Rollei looks nice but nice in a very high maintenance nice. Guess I'll stick with bulk loading short lengths.
 
I'm used to my RB67, and its limitations, but I have to say I'm loving the possibilities with my new-to-me eos 1n. An f1.8 lens and a 1/8000th shutter speed opens up so many possibilities versus MF. Its like the Anti-RB! Autofocus? Automatic film advance? Gadzooks! I can't wait to use it more this year as a change of pace.
 
Ah, exactly the point, One must either carry multiple 35mm camera bodies or move to medium or large format.

Or just wait until August 2018 and get one of these:

Dead Link Removed

Not only interchangeable backs but also lens mounts so you can pretty much use whatever lens system you already have.
Can't wait for mine to arrive!
 
That is why real cameras have interchangeable film backs.

This is why real cameras have shutter speeds from 30 secs to 1/8000 sec.
Even the lowly $150 Nikon F100 can do that, something that a Hasselblad can only dream of - the best they can do is 1 sec to 1/2000. A difference of 7 stops of exposure compared to the F100. Who wants to be limited like that?
Butt really, I'm not sure why medium format cameras are brought into the conversation in the 35mm cameras and accessories section?
 
On April 8, 2005, I had to shoot a partial solar eclipse. To overcome the extreme brightness of the sun as the subject, I had to:

1. Use a slow film (ISO100)
2. Stop the telephoto lens down to f/22
3. Use a 2-stop red filter to give me an effective f/stop of f/45
4. Use a fast shutter speed of 1/8000th second.

My point is that instead of changing to system that yields a body with an 1/8000s shutter speed I rather would invest in ND filters.
 
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On April 8, 2005, I had to shoot a partial solar eclipse. To overcome the extreme brightness of the sun as the subject, I had to:

1. Use a slow film (ISO100)

2. Stop the telephoto lens down to f/22

3. Use a 2-stop red filter to give me an effective f/stop of f/45

4. Use a fast shutter speed of 1/8000th second.



Partial Solar Eclipse (2005) by Narsuitus, on Flickr
We had a partial eclipse here (south Puget Sound) in August. I rigged up a piece of white Masonite and used eyepiece projection on a ancient 60mm refractor. That made a nice clear 3 inch white light image of the sun that the missus took pictures of with her iPhone while I tracked the sun manually. You could see sun spots quite clearly in those snap shots. I was surprised that in all the hype leading up to this last eclipse about 'how to view the sun safely' none of the news stories I read mentioned the old (and totally safe) method of eyepiece projection.
 
My point is that instead of changing to system that yields a body with an 1/8000s shutter speed I rather would invest in ND filters.

That is exactly what I did in 2012 when I used a Baader Solar Filter in a do-it-yourself filter holder to capture the Venus transit across the sun with my Nikon 1000mm f/11 mirror lens.



Venus Transit Hardware by Narsuitus, on Flickr
 
Top shutter speed of any camera tend not very accurate. 1/2 stop off is rather normal.
 
This is why real cameras have shutter speeds from 30 secs to 1/8000 sec.
Even the lowly $150 Nikon F100 can do that, something that a Hasselblad can only dream of - the best they can do is 1 sec to 1/2000. A difference of 7 stops of exposure compared to the F100. Who wants to be limited like that?
Butt really, I'm not sure why medium format cameras are brought into the conversation in the 35mm cameras and accessories section?

But I do not need to shoot faster than 1/500 second. With Sunny 16 and ISO 400 film I still can use f/22 for one more stop. I can also shoot Delta 3200 at 1/500 and stop down to with my 500mm lens or the 500mm lens plus the 2XE extender and still have margin.
 
My point is that instead of changing to system that yields a body with an 1/8000s shutter speed I rather would invest in ND filters.

I agree why upgrade for something that I do not need.
 
But the OP wants a mechanical 1/400th shutter.
 
And mechanical shutters are not influenced by the temperature the way battery operated cameras can be.
 
In first instance the battery is influenced by temperature, not the electronic camera. But in contrast mechanical cameras, especially their shutter control, can be temeperature sensitive.
 
Where do I get one of these 35mm interchangeable film back devices?

Shoot a Zeiss Ikon Contarex or Contaflex. Both are 35mm cameras and both use interchangeable film backs that can be changed mid roll if you wish. Go from black and white to color and back again.

Great system and both cameras have very good lenses.
 
In first instance the battery is influenced by temperature, not the electronic camera. But in contrast mechanical cameras, especially their shutter control, can be temeperature sensitive.

Leica used to service the shutter with different lubes if you were planning on shooting in very cold temperature.

If you have a way to keep the battery warm electronic shutters are typically more accurate in these situations.
 
Leica used to service the shutter with different lubes if you were planning on shooting in very cold temperature.

If you have a way to keep the battery warm electronic shutters are typically more accurate in these situations.

Minolta would service my cameras for cold weather work and then when the weather got warmer I would send them back for a CLA. I did that for decades.
 
Shoot a Zeiss Ikon Contarex or Contaflex. Both are 35mm cameras and both use interchangeable film backs that can be changed mid roll if you wish. Go from black and white to color and back again.

Great system and both cameras have very good lenses.

I'll keep an eye out for one at a garage sale...yup...
 
These electro whizbangs are pretty accurate.
In my experience the electronic controlled shutter isn't any more accurate than the fully mechanical shutter at top speed. At the top speed it's the shutter curtain travel time and evenness play the big role in accuracy and both types of shutters the curtains are spring powered.
 
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