I know of only one brand, the Rolleiflex 200F, 3001 and 3003. The backs were rectangle units, like small Hasselblad backs. The cameras did not sell well in the 1980s in the US market. Check out the article on Cameraquest. I recall reading that they suffered from electronic problems, and the NiCd battery packs have probably failed. Is anyone here on APUG using one of these Rolleis?Where do I get one of these 35mm interchangeable film back devices?
I know of only one brand, the Rolleiflex 200F, 3001 and 3003. The backs were rectangle units, like small Hasselblad backs. The cameras did not sell well in the 1980s in the US market. Check out the article on Cameraquest. I recall reading that they suffered from electronic problems, and the NiCd battery packs have probably failed. Is anyone here on APUG using one of these Rolleis?
Where do I get one of these 35mm interchangeable film back devices?
Ah, exactly the point, One must either carry multiple 35mm camera bodies or move to medium or large format.
In other words, no such thing.
...
For all practical purposes, yes.
However, there was the Kodak Ektra:
https://www.cameraquest.com/ektra.htm
I'm sure there was another interchangeable back 35mm camera, though I don't recall what it was. The Rollei 3001, 3003 was a brilliant design that deserved much better market success.
One of these days I'll use the film knife on one of my Exaktas.
Ah, exactly the point, One must either carry multiple 35mm camera bodies or move to medium or large format.
That is why real cameras have interchangeable film backs.
On April 8, 2005, I had to shoot a partial solar eclipse. To overcome the extreme brightness of the sun as the subject, I had to:
1. Use a slow film (ISO100)
2. Stop the telephoto lens down to f/22
3. Use a 2-stop red filter to give me an effective f/stop of f/45
4. Use a fast shutter speed of 1/8000th second.
We had a partial eclipse here (south Puget Sound) in August. I rigged up a piece of white Masonite and used eyepiece projection on a ancient 60mm refractor. That made a nice clear 3 inch white light image of the sun that the missus took pictures of with her iPhone while I tracked the sun manually. You could see sun spots quite clearly in those snap shots. I was surprised that in all the hype leading up to this last eclipse about 'how to view the sun safely' none of the news stories I read mentioned the old (and totally safe) method of eyepiece projection.On April 8, 2005, I had to shoot a partial solar eclipse. To overcome the extreme brightness of the sun as the subject, I had to:
1. Use a slow film (ISO100)
2. Stop the telephoto lens down to f/22
3. Use a 2-stop red filter to give me an effective f/stop of f/45
4. Use a fast shutter speed of 1/8000th second.
Partial Solar Eclipse (2005) by Narsuitus, on Flickr
That means my Pentax 645NII isn't a real camera then. NooooooooooThat is why real cameras have interchangeable film backs.
My point is that instead of changing to system that yields a body with an 1/8000s shutter speed I rather would invest in ND filters.
This is why real cameras have shutter speeds from 30 secs to 1/8000 sec.
Even the lowly $150 Nikon F100 can do that, something that a Hasselblad can only dream of - the best they can do is 1 sec to 1/2000. A difference of 7 stops of exposure compared to the F100. Who wants to be limited like that?
Butt really, I'm not sure why medium format cameras are brought into the conversation in the 35mm cameras and accessories section?
My point is that instead of changing to system that yields a body with an 1/8000s shutter speed I rather would invest in ND filters.
Top shutter speed of any camera tend not very accurate. 1/2 stop off is rather normal.
Where do I get one of these 35mm interchangeable film back devices?
In first instance the battery is influenced by temperature, not the electronic camera. But in contrast mechanical cameras, especially their shutter control, can be temeperature sensitive.
Leica used to service the shutter with different lubes if you were planning on shooting in very cold temperature.
If you have a way to keep the battery warm electronic shutters are typically more accurate in these situations.
Shoot a Zeiss Ikon Contarex or Contaflex. Both are 35mm cameras and both use interchangeable film backs that can be changed mid roll if you wish. Go from black and white to color and back again.
Great system and both cameras have very good lenses.
In my experience the electronic controlled shutter isn't any more accurate than the fully mechanical shutter at top speed. At the top speed it's the shutter curtain travel time and evenness play the big role in accuracy and both types of shutters the curtains are spring powered.These electro whizbangs are pretty accurate.
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