30 years to get back to where I started. The Olympus OM1n and I.

[baachitraka]

My OM-2n seems almost broken.
-Changing aperture have effect on the indicated meter value and the aperture is not fully closed to the selected aperture during exposure. In the test case it was f/16.
-Speeds from 1/125 to 1/1000 seems stuck to 1/60.

I just use it for the flash.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

My OM-2n seems almost broken.
-Changing aperture have effect on the indicated meter value and the aperture is not fully closed to the selected aperture during exposure. In the test case it was f/16.
-Speeds from 1/125 to 1/1000 seems stuck to 1/60.

I just use it for the flash.

Do you have a flash shoe on the top?
Remove it, please.
Check the shutter speeds again in Manual. Then check in Auto.

 

[baachitraka]

I do not have the flash shoe attached to it. Very sad it is going down.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

How's the pictures?
That is what the matter. If they are ok when you use Auto, that means the cells on the bottom are working as well as the shutter speeds.

 

[baachitraka]

I have tested the camera with EV=13 in manual mode and I got progressively dense negatives from speeds 1/125 to 1/1000. So, I can confirm something is broken.

Today I just test the camera without film and in manual mode and found that meter indication needle is not working either. I do not know whether I can keep it or let it go as partly broken.

Its nice black OM-2n :-(

 

[Frank53]

I have tested the camera with EV=13 in manual mode and I got progressively dense negatives from speeds 1/125 to 1/1000. So, I can confirm something is broken.

Today I just test the camera without film and in manual mode and found that meter indication needle is not working either. I do not know whether I can keep it or let it go as partly broken.

Its nice black OM-2n :-(

Sad!
You could try OM doctor in Hamburg.
If anyone can fix it, it's him.
Frank

 

[baachitraka]

I used to send it to Mr. Michael Spencer but he is now retired and the only option in Europe is OM-Doctor.

 

[John Bragg]

It's funny this thread should pop up now as that's exactly what I'm experiencing now. My first ever proper SLR was an OM2n that I bought second-hand in 1985. It had various electronic problems so in the end I got it fixed and traded it for an OM-1 MD with a 50mm f1.4. Over the years I added another OM-1n and then an OM4 and used them extensively. However, just before a trip abroad (my honeymoon actually, in 2002), I had a total OM failure. The door catch broke on my OM1 MD, the meter on the OM1n started overexposing by two stops and the electronics died in the OM4. I had to borrow a Nikon FM plus a couple of lenses for that trip, and then bought that Nikon, and then added to it. I managed to get a warranty repair on the OM4, but it was never the same after that and always had unreliable spot meter buttons. So since 2002, the OMs have been sat in a box in the spare room. However, two weeks ago I got them out and really enjoyed playing with them. They are really beautiful machines, amazing viewfinders, so I bit the bullet and sent the lot (plus the 50mm f1.4) off for a service. The aim is to get back to basics, an OM1n, a 50 mm lens and just looking for photos rather than being obsessed by the next lens. I'll see how long I can resist adding to the system though!

Glad someone else feels the same. As the OP I thought there must be others out there ! One added tip, use the Silver oxide button cell for the meter rather than alkaline as they are more consistent. Just need to calibrate meter as they are 1.5v instead of 1.35 as in the old Mercury cell. I just set the ISO dial to compensate.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

One added tip, use the Silver oxide button cell for the meter rather than alkaline as they are more consistent. Just need to calibrate meter as they are 1.5v instead of 1.35 as in the old Mercury cell. I just set the ISO dial to compensate.

Dear John,
On the OM-1 I wouldn't use the SR44.
Even compensating the ISO, there will be differences in the high light and the low light.
The amount of compensation isn't the same across the EV range.

It is a lot easier to use a ZA675 (same size as a SR44) and use an Oring from any plumber shop to centre it.
The meter will be as accurate as when it used the PX625.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

I used to send it to Mr. Michael Spencer but he is now retired and the only option in Europe is OM-Doctor.

Miles Whitehead is a recommended repairer here in the UK.
http://www.mwcamerarepairs.co.uk/

 

[John Bragg]

Dear John,
On the OM-1 I wouldn't use the SR44.
Even compensating the ISO, there will be differences in the high light and the low light.
The amount of compensation isn't the same across the EV range.

It is a lot easier to use a ZA675 (same size as a SR44) and use an Oring from any plumber shop to centre it.
The meter will be as accurate as when it used the PX625.

Hi Ricardo, I use S625PX and it works fine with no add ons.

http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_s625px.htm

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

Thanks John.
It will be the same problem. Compensation for a different voltage without a diode isn't linear.

 

[xtolsniffer]

I got all mine back from Miles Whitehead, nice jobs. he changed the battery on the OM1s to an SR44 fit with a diode in the path and a small O-ring in the battery compartment. I have to say that the OM4 is much better behaved with SR44s than LR44s anyway.

 

[John Bragg]

Thanks John.
It will be the same problem. Compensation for a different voltage without a diode isn't linear.

Thanks Ricardo. Perhaps a Cris adaptor is the way to go ?

 

[OptiKen]

This thread has been great. As if I don't have enough cameras already, now I'm looking for an OM-1n to add to the mix.
The truth is I've always loved the color renditions I got with Zuiko lenses and I love the smaller camera sizes

 

[ArtScar2]

Dad was a Rollei guy forever, but I remember when he supplemented with 35mm. It was an OM-1 which he was quite fond of. I was looking to buy my first camera with my own money and did not want the low tech of the OM 1, but wanted to be able to borrow his 24mm. I settled on an OM2s. He thought me goofy and he despised the led meter bar.I got along with it fine, until it started going through batteries like a speed-dater's Tic-tacs. I put it away and replaced it with OM2n, then went MF. I still have all 3 OM cameras (and 2 others) as I got Dad's when he died. I doubt I will ever use the 2s much but the OM1 is my most treasured camera. A true work of art.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

Thanks Ricardo. Perhaps a Cris adaptor is the way to go ?

John,
No, it is a lot easier to go to a Boots and get a pack of ZA675 hearing aid batteries.
It is cheaper too.
It would be cheaper if your local Poundland shop has "Kodak" ZA675 batteries. 4x for the sum of £1.
Why complicate things with diode mods, Cris adapters, etc.?

 

[ColColt]

These work very well in two FTN Photomic cameras and act as a 1.35v battery.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MR-9-Batter...083632?hash=item1e6b1d0830:g:hkIAAOxykMpTHFbQ

 

[wiltw]

Glad someone else feels the same. As the OP I thought there must be others out there ! One added tip, use the Silver oxide button cell for the meter rather than alkaline as they are more consistent. Just need to calibrate meter as they are 1.5v instead of 1.35 as in the old Mercury cell. I just set the ISO dial to compensate.

Hi Ricardo, I use S625PX and it works fine with no add ons.

http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_s625px.htm

Many years ago I conducted tests of an OM-1n camera with both PX625 mercuric oxide battery, and also with alkaline battery. I discovered that it was impossible to use any single 'correction factor' to result in accurate metering with a non-mercury battery in place. This is NOT merely due to the absolute voltage being output from the alkaline cell, but it was also dependent upon the light level being measured. That is, the amount of 'error' during metering in low light was different than the amount of error while measuring brighter light! Therefore, while silver oxide might display less voltage fluctuation than alkaline battery, nothing eliminates the error induced by level of light being measured!

The solutions are to use adapters like the MR-9, or to have internal device added to the camera, to regulate the voltage to 1.35v for the OM camera which needs mercuric oxide cells, or use Wein air cells.

 

[ColColt]

Those grand old cameras like the OM, FTN Photomic and Canon F-1 all used the mercury battery. While a mite expensive the adapter I mentioned in post 43 has been an excellent alternative for me and has worked out great using the 386 or SR43W battery.

 

[John Bragg]

Those grand old cameras like the OM, FTN Photomic and Canon F-1 all used the mercury battery. While a mite expensive the adapter I mentioned in post 43 has been an excellent alternative for me and has worked out great using the 386 or SR43W battery.

That looks like an ideal solution David. My OM1n cameras were adjusted by a camera technician to work with 1.5V alkalines years ago, but the voltage is not constant over the life of the battery and now I use the silver oxide equivalent which is 1.55V and setting the iso dial to 320 is enough of a compensation to equate to iso 200 with the original cells. It agrees with my Nikons and my Weston meters.

 

[ColColt]

It's worked well for me. I tested it against three sources, the D7000, F2A(Soverized) and lastly the Gossen Luna Pro SBC worked on and calibrated by George in CA. It agreed in both sunlight and shade so, I'm a happy camper.

 

[wiltw]

it is a lot easier to go to a Boots and get a pack of ZA675 hearing aid batteries.
It is cheaper too...Why complicate things with diode mods, Cris adapters, etc.?

Simply for the fact that once the zinc air cell is activated, it continues to expire even with non-use of the camera. For those of us accustomed to sporadic use of a camera, the mercuric oxide cell could last over a year, and one gets spoiled with such battery behavior. The zinc air battery begins to discharge as soon as the tab is removed and it is impossible to stop that discharge from occurring once you have removed that tab...one month, dead.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

Simply for the fact that once the zinc air cell is activated, it continues to expire even with non-use of the camera. For those of us accustomed to sporadic use of a camera, the mercuric oxide cell could last over a year, and one gets spoiled with such battery behavior. The zinc air battery begins to discharge as soon as the tab is removed and it is impossible to stop that discharge from occurring once you have removed that tab...one month, dead.

The ZA675 lasts for a few months.
You could use the OM-1 more often.

 

[wiltw]

The ZA675 lasts for a few months.
You could use the OM-1 more often.

I neglected to consider the 675 has more zinc in it than the smaller hearing aid batteries that last only a month. I won't dispute the appropriateness of pulling out the OM-1 with a bit more frequency.