3 Roll Developing Tank: Good Idea?

[RattyMouse]

Hi All,

Now that I am developing my film, my real film, no longer practice rolls, I'm wondering if I should move onto a higher volume film tank. Some weekends will see me shoot 6 rolls or more and vacation trips will produce 20 rolls at least. I see from B & H that there is a tank that can do 3 rolls of 120 film at one time.

Is this a good idea? Do many folks use something like this? I'm looking for some advice on if this idea is worth looking at further.

Thanks!

 

[MattKing]

I use the size of Paterson tank that accepts two 120 reels - it holds up to 1 lire of solution.

I regularly load two 120 rolls on each Paterson type reel.

Just load the first roll, push it through until it reaches the central core, and then load the second roll.

Some like to use tape to attach the end of one roll to the end of the other.

Be sure that you use enough developer - with some developer dilutions 1 litre doesn't have enough capacity to develop 4 rolls of 120.

 

[snapguy]

no problem

A three reel tank is no problem. A six reel tank works, too. Folks have been using them for years. I worked in the darkroom for a professional lab in Hollywood and we used tanks that would take 20 rolls at a time, "dip and dunk." Think big, it's okay.

 

[mfohl]

I often develop many rolls in a tank. I have some Paterson tanks that take 8 35 rolls or 5 120s. You have to be careful not to put too much developer in any size tank. Leave enough room so that the developer sloshes when you agitate by inversions. The most I'll put in a large tank is 5 35s or 3 120s. On the other hand, I won't use a large tank for only one roll; that's too much agitation.

And unlike MattKing, I only load one roll per reel. Maybe I should learn, however ...

 

[nsurit]

Get a patterson three reel tank and then when you decide you want to start shooting 4X5, all you will need is the Mod54 film holder to go in your tank.

 

[RattyMouse]

Get a patterson three reel tank and then when you decide you want to start shooting 4X5, all you will need is the Mod54 film holder to go in your tank.

Now you are thinking!

 

[MattKing]

Get a patterson three reel tank and then when you decide you want to start shooting 4X5, all you will need is the Mod54 film holder to go in your tank.

Correct me if I am wrong, but I think that the Mod 54 fits in the Paterson tanks that I use - which will take either three 135 reels or two 120 reels.

I took the OP's question as referring to the Paterson tanks that are even larger - the ones that will take either five 135 reels or three 120 reels.

 

[nsurit]

Matt, I think you are correct. Bill Barber

 

[Reinhold]

If your room is dark enough to load the reels, it's dark enough to develop using clear acrylic tanks that you can make yourself...

Reinhold

 

[Kevin Caulfield]

That's a great idea, Reinhold. Who needs a lightproof tank in a darkroom?

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk

 

[Pat Erson]

@ Reinhold :

How do you know it's time to agitate the tanks? Do you count in your head to 30? (or 60?)

 

[dorff]

While it is possible to load two 120 films onto one spool, you have to be careful, because it is a very tight fit. More often than not, the edges start to overlap. This will cause the enclosed emulsion side to be deprived of contact with chemicals. If you use swirl agitation with the centre pin, it will cause quite a large area of overlap. So in that case you have two options: Tape the films together so that they cannot slip over one another, or use inversion agitation. Doing both is probably a prudent approach. The other problem I also find is that unclicking the reel to disassemble it often causes a nasty kink in the outer film. So in general, it is not advisable to double-load.

If you use one film type exclusively, then multi-reel development is certainly convenient. However, it does not allow you the control and the spread of risk that single spool development does. I.e. if something goes wrong, it affects all the films at the same time. I have had enough of that happen to tend to prefer developing only 2 rolls at most. That means of course the taller tank that takes two 120 spools, or three 35 mm spools. What can go wrong? Exhausted developer, incorrect dilution/developing times (operator error), particulates in fixer that embedded in the emulsion, etc. All of those can wipe an entire batch. So take care, especially if you develop infrequently, and rely on chemicals that have been stored for a while. My own view is that the extra development effort is nothing compared to the cost and effort of creating an opportunity, or the commercial or sentimental value of the end product, let alone the annoyance and frustration when a film has been ruined.

 

[AgX]

The Jobo System 1500 offers

1x 35mm-reel tank,
2x 35mm (1x 60mm) reels tank,
3x 35mm (2x 60mm) reels adapter tube

The combination of these gives you several options.

 

[RattyMouse]

Dorff,

Thank you for your cautionary comments. I think I will just do 1 at a time for awhile, gaining more experience. I enjoy it so why rush?

Thanks to you and everyone!

 

[mgb74]

@ Reinhold :

How do you know it's time to agitate the tanks? Do you count in your head to 30? (or 60?)

There are audible timers. One person told me a while back that he recorded an agitation sequence on (then) cassette tape. Same could be done now on an mp3 file.

 

[fotch]

Dorff,

Thank you for your cautionary comments. I think I will just do 1 at a time for awhile, gaining more experience. I enjoy it so why rush?

Thanks to you and everyone!

Wow, all the advise freaked you out? Get a 2 reel tank & go for it. That doubles your output and is still easy to handle. Try it, you will like it.

 

[CatLABS]

While it is possible to load two 120 films onto one spool, you have to be careful, because it is a very tight fit. More often than not, the edges start to overlap. This will cause the enclosed emulsion side to be deprived of contact with chemicals. If you use swirl agitation with the centre pin, it will cause quite a large area of overlap. So in that case you have two options: Tape the films together so that they cannot slip over one another, or use inversion agitation. Doing both is probably a prudent approach. The other problem I also find is that unclicking the reel to disassemble it often causes a nasty kink in the outer film. So in general, it is not advisable to double-load.

If you use one film type exclusively, then multi-reel development is certainly convenient. However, it does not allow you the control and the spread of risk that single spool development does. I.e. if something goes wrong, it affects all the films at the same time. I have had enough of that happen to tend to prefer developing only 2 rolls at most. That means of course the taller tank that takes two 120 spools, or three 35 mm spools. What can go wrong? Exhausted developer, incorrect dilution/developing times (operator error), particulates in fixer that embedded in the emulsion, etc. All of those can wipe an entire batch. So take care, especially if you develop infrequently, and rely on chemicals that have been stored for a while. My own view is that the extra development effort is nothing compared to the cost and effort of creating an opportunity, or the commercial or sentimental value of the end product, let alone the annoyance and frustration when a film has been ruined.

That is just simply not true.
There is no reason not to load 2 rolls of 120 on one reel. Paterson reels with the ball bearing are harder to load for 120 in general, but when those are taken out all you need to do is load the first roll all the way in and make sure its pushed in all the way. Load the second roll so that the edge of the end flap does not pass the entry gate to the reel. This leaves a very safe 8-10cm distance between the two rolls. If you want to be more safe, get Jobo tanks with the duo tab, a separator clip, which is pushed in right after the first roll is loaded, and prevents overlapping.

 

[CatLABS]

The Jobo System 1500 offers

1x 35mm-reel tank,
2x 35mm (1x 60mm) reels tank,
3x 35mm (2x 60mm) reels adapter tube

The combination of these gives you several options.

1510 - 1X35mm
1520 - 2X 35 or 2X120
1540 (1510+1530) - 4X35 or 4X 120
1520+1530 - 5X35 or 6X120 (or 3X120 if you load only one roll per reel)

 

[jeffreyg]

When I have a lot of film (120) I use two 2 reel tanks. Once they are loaded and the lids are secure the lights go on. My film washer can handle four rolls so I can do four at a time.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[cbphoto]

Best upgrade I ever made to my film developing setup was going to an 8-reel stainless tank. It is the same height as my old 5-reel Jobo plastic (talking 35mm numbers here). The only downside is, I need a hose since it won't fit under my spigot. A worthwhile sacrifice for the time saved.

 

[Reinhold]

@ Reinhold :

How do you know it's time to agitate the tanks? Do you count in your head to 30? (or 60?)

I use a Zone VI compensating timer and watch the red LED, agitating at my chosen intervals.
If I had an iPhone, I'd probably use this timer app:
Dead Link Removed

Reinhold

 

[MattKing]

That is just simply not true.
There is no reason not to load 2 rolls of 120 on one reel. Paterson reels with the ball bearing are harder to load for 120 in general, but when those are taken out all you need to do is load the first roll all the way in and make sure its pushed in all the way. Load the second roll so that the edge of the end flap does not pass the entry gate to the reel. This leaves a very safe 8-10cm distance between the two rolls. If you want to be more safe, get Jobo tanks with the duo tab, a separator clip, which is pushed in right after the first roll is loaded, and prevents overlapping.

+1 (emphasis added)

Except I use the AP/Samigon/Arista ??? replacement reels in my Paterson tanks, because they are a bit easier to load than the Paterson reels, due to their wider input flanges.

I do agree with dorff's warning though for those who want to use rotary development - the films are much more likely to wander in the development stage if you use rotary development.

I actually mix my development procedures - I use inversion agitation for the development stage, but rotary agitation for the rest. The film doesn't seem to move in the reels when I work this way. When I first tried two rolls on the same reel I had problems with movement if I used rotary agitation for development. I wonder if that is because the film is slipperier when in the developer.

EDIT: And as for timing, I use a Gralab mechanical darkroom timer because they work well and are inexpensive used, but the digital timers that you can find cheap in kitchen stores (around here) work well as well.

A watch or clock with a sweep second hand works pretty well too.

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

The 3 reel Patterson tank is a very comfortable and versatile size. It's just big enough to bring with you if traveling and fits under bathroom sinks without having the need to stick a large tank in the shower. The ~1 liter size also makes for a simple setup of beakers at 1liter in size. The two roll tanks cant do 2 reels of 120/220. You can also use the taco method to develop 4x5 in the 3 reel tank. I only use larger tanks if I have shot a large quantity of the same film at the same ei.

 

[marcmarc]

I've been wanting to develop multiple rolls myself, using Hewes reels and a large 6 reel tank. I like using rodinal 1+100 though and I worry that at this dilution there may not be enough developer to fully develop two or more rolls. Anyone have experience with such dilutions?

 

[Xmas]

I use Rodinal 1:100 in 5x tanks:

Pour in 1.5 l at 20C
invert 3-4 times
set kitchen timer for 59 mins
when it rings dump dev
replace by tempered faucet water
I keep the tank in a large basin of water at 21C topping up with kettle ocassionally to hold basin close to 20.