120 size J&C Pro 100 backing paper woes

[bobfowler]

Has anyone else experienced light leaks around the edges of 120 J&C Pro 100?

I processed a couple of rolls the other day that had been shot about a week prior. Since there is no tape at the end of the roll, I used rubber bands to hold the roll together until processing. I normally use black electrical tape, but ran out and some rubber bands were handy. Anyway, there was heavy light fogging along the edges of the last half of both of the rolls, the last couple of frames were VERY fogged, well into the image area.

I got a bit concerned that maybe that batch of film was bad, so I took an unexposed, still in the wrapper roll into the darkroom and loaded it up, souped it in Rodinal, and it was fine, no fogging.

My guess is that the pressure of the rubber band in the middle of the roll caused the edges of the backing paper to lift slightly and caused the fogging. Fortunately, the images were nothing of any importance, but I'm going back to using tape from here on out. Those lovely 120 film cans that the film is now packaged in should also eliminate that problem with film that sits around for a few days before processing.

BTW - I compared the backing paper of the J&C 100 to the backing paper of Tri-X. The post film portion of the Tri-X backing paper is about 3 inches longer than the J&C 100, giving at least a full turn more at the end of the roll.

I love this film, but I'll sure be careful to keep tape in my bag at ALL times.

 

[titrisol]

Yes, same experience here.
The adhesive at the end is not too good, have to carry some thin masking tape all the time.

 

[bobfowler]

When I bought my last supply of Pro 100, I also bought 50 of the 120 film cans.

I think the problem was the rubber bands...

 

[MikeK]

Same problem here, and the first time I shot the film I was so suprised there was not tape at the end I held in my open hand and it slowly unfolded I now carry a roll of scotch tape in my bag.

I also have had a mighty tough time getting the tape off the film before loading, this is also a problem with the J&C 200 and the Arista.Edu films. With some of the tape left on the backing I get uneven spacing with both a Hassy A12 back and my C330. Anyone have a nifty in the field solution for getting all the tape off without tearing the backing?

- Mike

 

[bobfowler]

Same problem here, and the first time I shot the film I was so suprised there was not tape at the end I held in my open hand and it slowly unfolded I now carry a roll of scotch tape in my bag.

I also have had a mighty tough time getting the tape off the film before loading, this is also a problem with the J&C 200 and the Arista.Edu films. With some of the tape left on the backing I get uneven spacing with both a Hassy A12 back and my C330. Anyone have a nifty in the field solution for getting all the tape off without tearing the backing?

- Mike

I don't have any problems with frame spacing with any of my 8 Bronica SQ-A backs. I never ran the Pro 100 through my Mamiya TLR's (now all sold), but frame spacing is good in the Graphic 6X9 rollfim holders for my Mini Speed and 4X5.

I have to agree about the PITA tape at the head of the roll. I don't bother to even try to get it off anymore, I just tear the tape off as best I can and if it takes a bit off of the leading tab, so be it. I'm careful though when loading to make sure the slack is out of the rolls before closing the Bronica backs on the insert.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Edge leaking has been reported with Efke and Forte 120 films, but not Foma, so someone's been getting it right over there.

When I've used Classic 400 120, I just take extra care to load and unload the film in subdued light and to put it in a dark place, like a coat pocket or a black opaque plastic bag (like a bag that 5x7" or postcard paper comes in) right away, and keep it there until processing.

Lowepro or one of those companies used to make this nice belt pack for exposed MF film that has a rubber slot for inserting the film on top and a zipper on the side for removing it later. I'd been meaning to get a couple of them, but haven't seen them for a while, or I just don't think of it when I'm at B&H.

 

[Dean Williams]

The last batch of Pro 100 I got in the mail had tape at the end of the roll, BUT there is no sticky stuff on it. It's just a strip of plain paper glued to the backing. I had to laugh. They'll get there sooner or later. The film canisters work great.

 

[david b]

I've had the same problem. See my other post:
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[Jennifer]

Hi,
I don't do 120 film any more, but years ago I used to say why don't Kodak
make the paper a tad less in width, as it seemed too wide to fit between the edges of the spool. Well there was a reason. I read somewhere on the web, that the paper being a tad more in width causes it to flare out at the edges to prevent light leaks. Perhaps the paper backing is not wide enough, of the paper does not have enough flexibility to flare out, like Kodak backing.

Just my 2 cents worth of thoughts....

Jennifer

 

[MikeK]

I don't have any problems with frame spacing with any of my 8 Bronica SQ-A backs. I never ran the Pro 100 through my Mamiya TLR's (now all sold), but frame spacing is good in the Graphic 6X9 rollfim holders for my Mini Speed and 4X5.

I have to agree about the PITA tape at the head of the roll. I don't bother to even try to get it off anymore, I just tear the tape off as best I can and if it takes a bit off of the leading tab, so be it. I'm careful though when loading to make sure the slack is out of the rolls before closing the Bronica backs on the insert.

I think the Hassy problem is the fact the manufacturing tolerances are too small, a problem with over-engineering. Had a similar problem when Ilford changes their 120 spool dimensions.

- Mike