I haven't got a 120 format camera yet. Doing the prep work. With my 35mm, 1 reel I use 300ml of solution. Under 120 format, how much solution do I need? And I cannot do 2 reels of 120 right? My tank does 2 reels of 35mm but that is kinda the max.
There have been a couple revisions to patterson tanks since the last ice age. Mine's from the 80's and I have one from the 70's. I use about 575ml for a single roll of 120. If you have a local shop that can give you a waste roll of 120, they handle a little differently. The narrow width of 35 is easier to handle. Some dry runs of loading the reel w/ 120 might not hurt. All the normal caveats apply - DRY reel, dry hands, etc. I just paid some dues trying a stainless reel on shots that should have had no experimenting. Wrinkled negs show up.
Which Paterson tank do you have? (note that there is just one "t" in Paterson).
If you have one which permits loading 2 reels of 35mm, you can use it for 120. As far as I know, there are no modern Paterson tanks which aren't big enough to take at least one reel setup for 120.
The tank will indicate on its bottom what volume of solution you need for various size films.
If your tank is big enough for 120, the Paterson reels will permit loading two 120 films on the same reel - I do it regularly. There are, however some complexities if you do that, so I wouldn't start out by doing that.
With a Patterson tank you need 500ml of solution fo cover the reel for 120, bit I suggest that you use 600ml as the reel can slide up the center colum slightly and the extra 100ml makes sure that the film is covered, I reel per tank instead of two for 35mm, but you can put 2 120 films in the 1 reel, wind the first film into the reel as far as it will go, then load the second, two films will develop in the same amount of chemistry as one.
I use a fairly new Patterson tank at the minute and typically just go with 600ml for devving a single 120 roll in it but I dare say I could get away with a bit less. Never had any problems. BTW: You might find it a little trickier getting a roll of 120 film onto a Paterson reel than a 35mm roll at first, be patient though, it takes a bit of getting used to for some people.
I load 2 120 rolls into one reel as well, you basically double your output that way. Load the first one in, make sure the end passes the loading aid (little metallic ball) and then just keep turning it until it's gone all the way into the core. Now it's time to load the 2nd one in and you're good to go.
I use an LPL / AP style reel in the Paterson tank as its a lot easier to load for 120 rolls.
Take Matt's advice, only load one 120 film in the beginning until you can do it smoothly in the dark. And when you do want to load two rolls of 120, after loading the first until it is wound tight, leave the tape on the second roll after removing the backing paper and make a loop with the tape, joining the end of the tape at the place where the film ends. This will help keep the two films separate on the reel. If the two rolls overlap, the developer and the fixer aren't always able to reach both films. Don't ask me how I know
Use a clip to lock the single reel on the spindle when you develop single 120 film, otherwise the reel could creep up and a portion of the film could be above the level of developer.
I switched away from Paterson's to Jobo because I found them more ergonomic to use for inverson, and I like their reels better, but that's just me. I agree with above about the reel having the potential to slide, usually a good rap on the counter solves that following each completed inversion, but a rubber band tight above the reel on the center shaft also does the trick.
The extra 100ml costs very little and saves ruining a film by the top creeping up the center colum and not being developed properly, something that has happened to many, it is certainly cheaper than more film and travel to reshot
No, but you do need enough air space to create turbulence in the developer so it can bring fresh chems to the film surface while moving the bromides away from the film as well, to avoid uneven development and bromide drag streaks.
No, but you do need enough air space to create turbulence in the developer so it can bring fresh chems to the film surface while moving the bromides away from the film as well, to avoid uneven development and bromide drag streaks.
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