110 Camera Repairs : Completed. Need Advice.

[nascarfann]

I completed the repairs on my 110 camera that I got from the garage sale. Here are some photos. https://imgur.com/a/OocJIV8 . Because the film advance was damaged, I left it open so I can manually wind the 110 gear. The shutter cocks and releases well. Should I give it a try or get a different 110 camera? I want to use this camera if at all possible, but only if it works. I am worried about light leaks. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[shutterfinger]

Light sieve.

 

[nascarfann]

Light sieve.

What?

 

[AgX]

I am actually quite informed about type 110 cameras, but I failed to recognize this model.

(In another thread you referred to a Keystone xr308 telephoto.)

Anyway, at least over here there is no shortage of such cameras for 1-2€ and amongst them are models that have screwd on bodies, so there should be alternatives. There is a point where one should cancell further efforts.

 

[nascarfann]

(In another thread you referred to a Keystone xr308 telephoto.)

Yes it is the Keystone. I gave it a new shell so it will not be recognizable. How did I do on the repairs? Do you think it would work? I don't want to waste film. I would like to use it rather than finding a different camera, but only if it will work.

 

[shutterfinger]

A camera is a light tight box, be it square or rectangle, with a means of controlling light entering on one side and a recording medium on the other.
As pictured you do not have a light tight box. Film in a plastic cassette with both supply and take up will not be light tight without a locking back that blocks light to hold it in place.

 

[Chan Tran]

If you like fixing thing then continue trying to fix it. If you want a 110 camera just buy another. They are cheap.

 

[AgX]

The film cassette is pressed against the chamber containing the lens barrel like a slip lid. This is not a labyrinth lid, but still I see merely a chance that the film should be hit even if direct light should come from the direction of the transport sprocket.
On the other side, type 110 film is much more rare at garage sales than respective cameras and new would cost a multiple of the camera, so I would look for another camera and even benefit from a working shutter and transport.

 

[nascarfann]

Film in a plastic cassette with both supply and take up will not be light tight without a locking back that blocks light to hold it in place.

I have a locking back, though I did not include it in the picture. Most 110 cameras I have seen are only light tight in the lens area. Look at this. https://www.lomography.com/magazine/234389-pinhole-passion-my-110-pinhole-camera . This person made a pinhole camera by just taping around the film area. The film gear is in the open.

If you like fixing thing then continue trying to fix it. If you want a 110 camera just buy another. They are cheap.

It is already fixed. I just want advice on if it will work without light leaks as film and processing is expensive.

I would look for another camera and even benefit from a working shutter and transport.

The shutter works perfectly. I don't care about the transport. I just want to be able to take some lo-fi 110 photos in the studio where I will have time to rewind manually.

 

[AgX]

To be on the absolute safe side put a tiny, tiny strand of plasticine into the slip lid of the cassette, where it will rest against the chamber of the camera.
And scratch it off, without spilling onto the film, before you will get it processed!

I think all these replies so far are the best you will get from us.

 

[Helios 1984]

Curiosity leads the way, I say try that thing and report back with scans.

Godspeed.

 

[MattKing]

It is already fixed. I just want advice on if it will work without light leaks

It looks like you are learning stuff and having fun, so no complaints here from me.
But I think you will find that most of us here wouldn't consider a camera to be "fixed" if there were light leaks.
So your question confuses some of us, and makes others smile.
If it were me, I would put a piece of slit down bulk 35mm in a used 110 cassette, and try exposing it and developing it to check for light leaks.
But I expect that isn't an option for you.
And by the way, a "light sieve" is something full of holes that lets light in.

 

[nascarfann]

But I think you will find that most of us here wouldn't consider a camera to be "fixed" if there were light leaks.

I am not sure if there are light leaks. Would you load this camera with 110 and do a test run if you had to pay to have someone develop it?

 

[MattKing]

I am not sure if there are light leaks. Would you load this camera with 110 and do a test run if you had to pay to have someone develop it?

If I had gone through all the effort you have I would - or at least I would consider doing so, if I couldn't jury-rig something to develop it myself in black and white chemicals.
But that would mostly be about satisfying my curiosity. I have access to lots of apparently working 110 cameras, and would probably have gone that route instead.
Now to go back to editing and projecting my father's 110 Kodachrome slides!

 

[ciniframe]

The OP didn't put a box for "other".
considering all the trouble you have gone too and that you need 110 film to proceed may I make a suggestion.
For submini just ditch 110 all together and go with a Minolta 16II, you can buy working models for $10~20 off ebay. You will also need;
Film cartridges, you can sometimes find NOS on ebay at about $10~20 each. Expensive but you can reload them many times
A number '0' aux lens so you can bring focus to infinity at f4 and smaller. Look for a full set of the bay. Four aux lenses number 1 and 2 close up, and the 0 lens plus the 4 lens sets came with a yellow filter.
A Yankee Master tank with reels adjustable to 16mm, no more than $20 used
B&W developer, your choice.
100 ft. of Eastman 7222 Double-X in 16mm single perf. That is about $50 (60+ rolls)
Home made 'spinner stick' to load 18 inches of film into cartridges.
Easy release masking tape.
Whatever else you need to load and develop B&W.

Initial outlay, about $200 but operating cost is low, about $1 for each roll of film, not the $8 a roll LOMO wants for 110, when they even have it in stock. (the B%W Orca has been out for months, probably never in stock again)

A plus is that you will have a camera will full manual control of shutter speed and aperture, shutter speeds 1/30 to 1/500 plus B and a 3 element (yes, 3 element, not 4 element) 22mm f2.8 lens with whole stops to f16.

The minus is that the negatives are 10X14mm whereas the 110 frame is about 13X17mm. If you get a MGs or QT Minolta 16mm models then you will have the larger negative but quite honestly, the 16II model is plentiful, cheap and are seldom found not working.

 

[Bill Burk]

I collect a few 110 cameras and would highly recommend an original Kodak Model 20 (red button). You don’t need a battery for it. The rest of the original series are nominally good-better-best... but no good because the battery is a hassle.

 

[AgX]

For submini just ditch 110 all together and go with a Minolta 16II, you can buy working models for $10~20 off ebay. You will also need;
Film cartridges, you can sometimes find NOS on ebay at about $10~20 each. Expensive but you can reload them many times

There also is a cheap type 110 with macromode and Tessar-type lens and there are even type-110 SLRs.
But I admit the film-supply issue.

 

[choiliefan]

Devise a glued-up cardboard sleeve to make it light-tight.
Slip it on and off to access the film...

 

[nascarfann]

Devise a glued-up cardboard sleeve to make it light-tight.
Slip it on and off to access the film...

I have the original film door on the camera.

 

[choiliefan]

I have the original film door on the camera.

Obviously, I don't understand the problem.

 

[IlfordFan]

Nice Cam, would totally load it with film. That would work great for low-fi Lomography style images.

 

[AgX]

Obviously, I don't understand the problem.

There still is light spill from the front.

The OP has been told:

-) that it likely does not matter
-) that there is a way to get the cassette/chamber connection light tight for sure by using plasticine
(The proposal of a complete light-tight cover would not work as he needs some improvised access for transport)
-) that he likely can easily substitute the whole camera by a similar model, which would be mechanical sound and lighttight, and by all means would be the cheaper way seen the costs of film and processing.

I do not see why this thread is going on...

 

[nascarfann]

Despite it getting called a "Light sieve", I have decided I am giving it a try. I might blow a roll of film, but even then it will be a cool story to tell someday.

 

[nascarfann]

Ok guys, I gave the camera a try and the film is sent off to the lab.

Light sieve.

I sealed quite a few of the light leaks before using it. It was sure a fun light sieve to use!

If it were me, I would put a piece of slit down bulk 35mm in a used 110 cassette, and try exposing it and developing it to check for light leaks.
But I expect that isn't an option for you.

Ended up using a really bright led light in a closet to find the light leaks.

If I had gone through all the effort you have I would - or at least I would consider doing so, if I couldn't jury-rig something to develop it myself in black and white chemicals.
But that would mostly be about satisfying my curiosity.

Yes, I sure wish I wasn't so terrified of chemicals. Maybe my fear of my film getting lost in the postal system will be great enough that I will brave the chemicals someday!

I would look for another camera and even benefit from a working shutter and transport.

Actually, manually winding the 110 cartridge was easier than winding a single use camera! It was just really hard to get the roll started.

Final thoughts, I figure that if I like 110, I will definitely like 120!

 

[michr]

I think it's a bit of a stretch to call the modifications you've made to your camera a repair. 110 film is expensive these days. There's a good chance your modified camera will just ruin every photo you take with it because of light leaks. Instead get a Canon 110ED (cheap but nice) or Pentax Auto 110 (less cheap, very nice, interchangeable lenses) and don't look back.