1 developer 3 different films?

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waynecrider

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So I’ve got 3 films left to develop and I need one developer for them. One film is TriX, one is Delta 400 and the last is Lomography 100, 110 format. After this no more film developing for me. It will be sent out. Too much of a hassle on a septic tank. Any ideas?
 

bags27

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Photolab?

Or Diafine. One developer one time/temp all films.

Diafine will do the job, but it's hard to get and very expensive, especially for only 3 rolls, unless waynecrider already has some.
 

Sirius Glass

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XTOL which is easy to use and forgiving.

XTOL.PNG
 

awty

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How much developer does 3 rolls need? less than a litre, so just get 1tre pack of d76 and be done with it.
Throw the spent developer on the grass or a weed, or on the foot path or against the wall to let the sun evaporite it.
Not worth thinking about.
Unless your processing a heap of film each day a little bit down the drain wont hurt.
 
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waynecrider

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I’ve got 9 gallon bags of D76 that’s sitting in my closet in date by a year and the last one I opened came out extremely brown yesterday so I dumped it. The first I used was ok with normal light coloring last year.
Some of the bags are caked with different colorings that you can tell thru the bag. The one I used this time was free-flowing in the bag so I thought it would be the best one to use.
So I don’t wanna take any more chances and waste my time, So I just want a litre of developer outside of the 76 that will do the job.
 

markjwyatt

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I got the impression you wanted to develop all three rolls at once. If you do not mind 2 or 3 sessions then go for a quart of Clayton F76 or 12 oz. Arista Liquid film developer (like $4.69) or something like that.
 

cjbecker

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Whats the hassle with a septic tank? Ive always had my darkrooms on a septic tank. No fixer down the drain, and so little developer actually gets tossed I've never worried about it.
 

AgX

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After this no more film developing for me. It will be sent out.

What then is the point in saving these 3 films and not send them out? The type 110 then may be a problem, but the other two?
 

mtnbkr

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TheDarkroom.com does 110.

You could do all three films at once in Cinestill DF96, just process it all for the time required by the longest one. $17 for the powder would be cheaper than getting even 2 rolls developed, so if you use it that one time and never again, you've saved money.

You won't need a stop bath either.

Chris
 
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waynecrider

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What then is the point in saving these 3 films and not send them out? The type 110 then may be a problem, but the other two?

One is already spooled and I just bought fixer a week ago. I also made a 110 spool this last winter. Developing will be individual.
 
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waynecrider

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TheDarkroom.com does 110.

You could do all three films at once in Cinestill DF96, just process it all for the time required by the longest one. $17 for the powder would be cheaper than getting even 2 rolls developed, so if you use it that one time and never again, you've saved money.

You won't need a stop bath either.

Chris

What’s the qualities of the developer?
 
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waynecrider

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I got the impression you wanted to develop all three rolls at once. If you do not mind 2 or 3 sessions then go for a quart of Clayton F76 or 12 oz. Arista Liquid film developer (like $4.69) or something like that.

Not at once.
Which is better?
 

Paul Howell

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Arista is house rebranded Clayton F76+ in a smaller bottle than Clayton sells. It is one of the developers I keep hand, chemically different than D76 with similar working characteristics to D76. You can also find Foma's version of Xtol in liter size at Freestyle.
 

mtnbkr

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What’s the qualities of the developer?

It's easy to use and one step (plus rinse, but that's with plain water). As long as you develop at the right temp, you can't over or under develop no matter how long the film is in the soup. You can push/pull by changing temperature. It's reusable, so you can develop upwards of 16 rolls of film, though you add 15 seconds for each roll you've developed previously, up to a max of 8min if I recall correctly (2x for T-grained films).

I probably wouldn't bother developing my own film otherwise. For anything that isn't critical, I develop it in DF96 and scan with a digital camera to determine if it's worth having a lab print a negative properly. That way, I'm not paying someone to develop and print everything only to find out I only wanted 1 or 2 shots from a roll.

Chris
 
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Whats the hassle with a septic tank? Ive always had my darkrooms on a septic tank. No fixer down the drain, and so little developer actually gets tossed I've never worried about it.
Same here.

Mix stop and developer at the end of the session, pour the fixer into a 5-gallon jug (save up till full and take to a photo lab for silver recovery) and zero problems.

But, if you're going to switch to sending your film out for development, why wait for three rolls? Just send them out now.

Doremus
 

abruzzi

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since you don't need much, how about the Ilford single use stuff:

 
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I got the impression you wanted to develop all three rolls at once. If you do not mind 2 or 3 sessions then go for a quart of Clayton F76 or 12 oz. Arista Liquid film developer (like $4.69) or something like that.

Mark, What do you think of Clayton F76? One of the labs I use uses that developer. I shoot Tmax 100 and Tmax 400.
 

markjwyatt

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Mark, What do you think of Clayton F76? One of the labs I use uses that developer. I shoot Tmax 100 and Tmax 400.

Alan- I have never tried it. But if I only had tree rolls to develop for the rest of my life, I might buy it based on its generally good reputation and low cost.
 
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