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No, not years. It is the number of sequels.

"The force* to resist futile is." -- Yoda, Star Wars MMCLXXIV * GAS or APUG

The 150mm lens is the least used on my lenses.

You could use Portra 800 instead and then with normal development, the film would be only one f/stop off.

. Welcome back to APUG Photrio!!

My experience is that it is much better to fix a known camera than buy an unknown and its set of problems if any.

My father would take some quite good portraits. I would see him approach a subject and ask to take a portrait. Once he had permission he would take out the Mamiya C330 crank out the lens and practically shove each lens up each nostril. I still see the look of horror on the subjects' faces...

I never seen such sloppiness in the 1/500 second of a Hasselblad lens. If there had been that kind of slop I would have seen it at some time over the years. It is just not there and I have never heard any other Hasselblad owners ever mention the problem. This myth may well come from those...

I agree. The 100mm is a little long for normal use, so I still recommend the 50mm, 80mm and 250mm for the typical users.

I would keep it. You never know when you can find another.

I have bought quality filters used. Check for scratches or damage as well as return policy.

1. light strike (don't rule out the tank, changing bag, light leaks in the darkroom, etc.) ===> unlikely because it does not show between frames 2. developer surge marks caused by agitation or features in the tank that cause turbulence===> unlikely because it does not show between frames 3...

That would be a NO.

Liquid

I do not have the GLS since I have the Hasselblad 503 CX and, yes, I see a line at the top of the view finder with the 250mm lens and 500mm lens. The line does not appear in the photographs only the view finder, as expected because it is a mirror issue, and I do not even notice it any longer...

It does not appear to me to be outside the image frame, that is I do not see it between the frames. Does anyone else see it as I do?

Is that because the Canada Post still uses dog sleds?

Only use old light meters too.

It is true. The resolution is also as strong as the weakest link.

I always mix pyro just before I use it.

TMTLR is more accurate.

What if I used old film?

Especially with pyro and TF4 or TF5.

I too have my feet in both camps. My serious work, sirius?, is with the Hasselblad and is all mechanical. My relaxed work is with the Nikon N75 and Nikon F100 and those are electronic and AF. The 4"x5" of course is mechanical.

I forgot the 100mm lens which is really sharp. 30mm Fisheye, the 38mm SWC, 50mm, 80mm, 100mm, 150mm, 250mm, the 500mm and the 2XE extender. Starting out I recommend the 50mm, 80mm and 250mm lenses OR 50mm or 60mm, 100mm, and 250mm lenses. The 60mm is too close to the 80mm [50/80 versus 60/80]...

Ouch :sad:

Every link in the optical path is important. The image quality is only as strong as the weakest leak. If possible both the lens and the filter should be multicoated. This is what I was taught at Kodak. I recommend glass multicoated filters. The quality matters. I use Hasselblad, Heliopan...

My smallest is a Tessina L which shoots 35mm respooled half frame [single frame]. It is twin mirror twin lens reflex.

I use B60 whenever they are available. I use Hasselblad, Heliopan and B+W, used when I can find them. If they are not available in that size I use 67mm filters with a step up B50 to 67mm adapter and I have a 62mm to 67mm adapter for my Nikons. B60 KR 1.5 [UV type] Polarizing Yellow K2 Orange...

I came across a television special about Gordon Parks. The more I learned about him, the more interested I became in him, his work and his legacy. https://www.nga.gov/features/slideshows/gordon-parks.html