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That will come with time and experience. Some things to know: Always have both the lens and body cocked before removing or putting on the lens. Start added lenses, extenders or extension tubes from the body out and remove them in the opposite order. Loading film: Changing light seals...

Welcome to Photrio. We can tell that you are wise, since you photograph with Hasselblads. ;)

Luck includes being their at the right opportunity for a juxtaposition of things or happenstance. Timing of releasing the shutter can be luck and or skill [either or both].

Prewetting solves all sorts of problems with tanks alone and Jobo processing, followed by the appropriate use of surfactants such as PhotoFlo and similar products.

I get a high with every delivery. If I go too long between deliveries, I start chasing FedEx, UPS, Post Office and DHL trucks down the street. I do not know what I will do if I ever catch one! 🐶

Time for a bump

Never a squeegee, but always a roller. I place the print on a large sheet of glass and use a roller to remove much of the excess water. Then I put the roller away and do not use it again on the print. That way I have not had any roller marks on print. And of course, without having a...

I have used tanks in the past, but for over ten years I have used the Jobo PPE2 for 35mm, 120 and 4"x5" and never had a development problem since I switched over. Furthermore using the Jobo the film develops properly and consistently well. I strongly recommend the Jobo processor system.

PE, a retired Kodak research engineer who provided expertise here for years, strongly advised against using soap as a surfactant on film and to only use products such as PhotoFlo to avoid a long list of potential problems. So some searches on Photrio to see what PE posted on this matter.

Would that be cost effective? Would it be better to just find another lenses? Check the costs first.

I have taken some of the non Hewes reels and gotten them back to round again or gotten the two sides parallel again so that they work but generally I was much happier with the Hewes reels.

For the less expensive reels, one drop from the hands or table to the floor is all that it takes to make reels out of round or no longer parallel from one side to the other.

I got it the first time too, but chose not to comment.

I too use the five roll carriers and I quickly found that the light leaks from the exposed rolls not being tightly rolled or the tape loosened up completely stopped. Now also put a strip of blue painters take on each carrier so that if the rolls sealing tape does not hold, I tear off a piece of...

I store XTOL in bags with the air forced out and tightly sealed. I have had stock XTOL and replenished XTOL stored for years. Buy the funnel to make filling the bags much easier. StopLossBags.com

I use XTOL or its equivalents used as Stock or replenished. It is a very forgiving developer that gives a slight boost of the ISO speed. That allows some more shadow detail provided that would normally not be there without compensation.

I agree. I found that using less than the manufacturer's ISO is a poor compromise. I start with the ISO and adjust as necessary for the conditions for that situation. Besides it is good mental exercise which forestalls or prevents senility.

I too found that R25 can be over the top. So I tried the R23 which works better in those situations. Between is problem I have and shooting Rllei IR 400 film I have and use R23, R25, R29 and [R]720 filters.

Great news indeed. Thank you.

When I used a lead bag, they just kept running it through the machine several times and then pulled the film out of the bag. Followed by the film run through the machine anyway.

First I read Ansel Adams books, then article in magizines and on line. However, I learned and came to understand it here back in the APUG days, but I had to ask questions on this site interactively until I finially understood and could use it well.

Edwals, PhotoFlo and anything in a can should be ok, but it pay to test the rest of the items because in my experience some should still work.

I use the SKGrimes spanner with great care when I have to use it. Of course my heart is in my throat as soon as I bring it near the lens.

The numbers to location mapping is not all that important. What is important is that there are numbers which the photographer can communicate to the photo finisher which negative to print. To purpose of the numbers is communication which negative(s) are of interest.

The convergent lines plus the color but a really great composition of casual objects in Southern California. Well done!

Yes, modern films can have a much as 10 to 12 f/stops in dynamic range, but paper has at best 7 f/stops. So the challenge is to fix the SBR [Subject Brightness Range] of the negative into the paper. That is why dodging and burning are needed. I first do split grade printing and then look to...

I would just make test strips of the negatives, just as I normally would.

Welcome to Photrio. See post #13.

If one uses PhotoFlo while the film is in the reels, the reels need to be scrubbed with hot water and a tooth brush or the film will start sticking to the reels.

Welcome and shoot more film.