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Hmm early on I was thinking about switching from the 150mm to the 180mm lens. Since neither would get much use, it is better that I did not swap.

I bought my Nikon Z7ii LN- from KEH does that count for the "your latest new old camera" thread?

My most used Hasselblad lenses are the 50mm, 80mm and 100mm. I do not take portraits so my least used is the 150mm lens.

Thank you. A great walk through the past.

Once you own a Hasselblad body, it just takes more time between purchasing each lenses, but you will get all the lenses that you want eventually.

It has been Portra 400 and Tri-X 400 for years, but now I am using my stach of Kodak UltraColor 400 and adding Ektar.

Congratulations! No matter how hard it try, I cannot catch up with you and your time on board. Note to self: work harder and faster! I started with 35mm and color only. Next a Mamiya C330 and three lenses. Added black & white, then a darkroom. Next a Hasselblad followed by a number of...

Welcome to Photrio! Please contribute often.

The only advantage I see with the 40mm lens is that one can see through the lens. I greatly prefer the 38mm Biogon because of the rectilinear correctness and lighter weight.

Or write it in the air. :laugh:

I have trouble following your calculations using audio only during the videos. If you would show the calculations on a white board, it would be easier to follow and provide an audit trail for you. I would have started with an incident reading or Zone V off my hand based on my experiences...

When you are in snow conditions like that, hang your camera bag under the tripod: So you can find it in the snow. Keep the snow outside the camera bag. Added weight to the bag in case the wind comes up, not needed this time. So you do not loose things.

Any places to find a copy or other source please?

Thank you.

RIP :(

I found information at http://www.khbphotografix.com/ https://duckduckgo.com/?q=%21ducky+classic-enlargers&atb=v244-1 http://www.pdf-manuals.com/ Thank you for including me in the kewl kids!

I have used it for years. It has obscure and hard to find information on cameras and lenses.

I agree with Pieter. Recirculating keeps the fixer available to reenter the paper.

I just use the thermometer built into my Jobo CPP2 processor for both black & white and color film. That has always been accurate enough.

Welcome to Photrio.

Welcome to Photrio! from southern California. Boring blue skies 350 days a year. I use this for my Hasselblad 903 SWC. Feel free to ask questions. The only bad questions are the ones that do not get asked.

As a long time Hasselblad owner it is sad to see that the owners of the company, not the Hasselblad family any longer, are doing everything they can to abandon the camera owners in hopes that the camera owners will come to them as customers. The Hasselblad 907 100C had approximately four times...

The question should be will we go by dog sled or by horse?

Welcome to Photrio. I have enjoyed many trips to Paris, Loire Valley, Normandy and southern France.

I use a five minute pre wash with the Jobo processor which sheds a lot of the pink dye for both C41 and black & white processing. For the final wash I use eight 500ml rinses for 30 seconds each. That leaves no pink on the film.

I would like a vanilla donut with hard chocolate frosting please. I prefer the Minolta or my Pentax Digital Spotmeter with the 1 degree FOV, thank you.

Easy solution! Either just stop your heart from beating or use a prism. Your choice, obviously.

I would be happy with one from either or both countries.

TEST: Do your best straight grade print Take the same negative and do your best split grade print Which do you like the best Repeat step 1 with a different negative

POP ==> the photograph as more pop!, the contrast is higher. Often the split grade printing is enough. I could not get that with single grade printing. It allows me to work on the contrast for the high contrast parts separate from the sky contrast.