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Time for a bump

Never a squeegee, but always a roller. I place the print on a large sheet of glass and use a roller to remove much of the excess water. Then I put the roller away and do not use it again on the print. That way I have not had any roller marks on print. And of course, without having a...

I have used tanks in the past, but for over ten years I have used the Jobo PPE2 for 35mm, 120 and 4"x5" and never had a development problem since I switched over. Furthermore using the Jobo the film develops properly and consistently well. I strongly recommend the Jobo processor system.

PE, a retired Kodak research engineer who provided expertise here for years, strongly advised against using soap as a surfactant on film and to only use products such as PhotoFlo to avoid a long list of potential problems. So some searches on Photrio to see what PE posted on this matter.

Would that be cost effective? Would it be better to just find another lenses? Check the costs first.

I have taken some of the non Hewes reels and gotten them back to round again or gotten the two sides parallel again so that they work but generally I was much happier with the Hewes reels.

For the less expensive reels, one drop from the hands or table to the floor is all that it takes to make reels out of round or no longer parallel from one side to the other.

I got it the first time too, but chose not to comment.

I too use the five roll carriers and I quickly found that the light leaks from the exposed rolls not being tightly rolled or the tape loosened up completely stopped. Now also put a strip of blue painters take on each carrier so that if the rolls sealing tape does not hold, I tear off a piece of...

I store XTOL in bags with the air forced out and tightly sealed. I have had stock XTOL and replenished XTOL stored for years. Buy the funnel to make filling the bags much easier. StopLossBags.com

I use XTOL or its equivalents used as Stock or replenished. It is a very forgiving developer that gives a slight boost of the ISO speed. That allows some more shadow detail provided that would normally not be there without compensation.

I agree. I found that using less than the manufacturer's ISO is a poor compromise. I start with the ISO and adjust as necessary for the conditions for that situation. Besides it is good mental exercise which forestalls or prevents senility.